DIY exhaust including cat to tail pipe - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-17-2020, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
agear
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DIY exhaust including cat to tail pipe

Has anyone been able to piece together a bolt on exhaust system. I want to replace my cat and muffler and tail pipe due to fumes. I'm looking for bolt on options with no welding


1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-01-2020, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
agear
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-07-2020, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Bump

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-07-2020, 05:37 PM
Jim1611
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I'm surprised to not see anyone responding about this. I was going to do my own then priced it at the shop and with the quote they gave me decided it was better to have him do it. As it turned out my quote was way low and I wish I'd have done it myself.


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post #5 of 15 Old 08-07-2020, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
I'm surprised to not see anyone responding about this. I was going to do my own then priced it at the shop and with the quote they gave me decided it was better to have him do it. As it turned out my quote was way low and I wish I'd have done it myself.
Thanks for the reply. I take it they diid some welding ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-07-2020, 07:29 PM
hp_lovecraft
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I did it a few years ago. I went to the local Oreillys. They have a very large exhaust section.

Pieced together assorted pieces, including a turbo muffler and generic cat. It was pretty simple. I did not make a bend for over the rear axle, so its pretty much a straight shot from the front pipe to the tail pipe.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-07-2020, 08:02 PM
Jim1611
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Originally Posted by agear View Post
Thanks for the reply. I take it they diid some welding ?
You're welcome. He welded everything, not a clamp in sight. he did a good job but it was almost $600.00 and I think I could have done t cheaper. I don't think I could have done a better job though.


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post #8 of 15 Old 08-08-2020, 01:12 AM
MrPeter63
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I did mine bolt on, got the down pipe from the engine and the tail pipe from rock auto, made by walker. Down pipe was like $40 and tail pipe like $25. you can get them anywhere though, Napa, Advance, etc. They are just gonna have to order them. Pretty much any parts store sells walker's stuff. Then i got a $20 Thrush muffler from advance auto and 2-2 foot pieces of pipe, clamps and a universal hanger. I didn't go with a cat, but would be easy to do. Just buy a universal cat and go, down pipe into cat, piece of pipe into muffler and muffler into tail pipe or piece of pipe into muffler and a piece of pipe into tail pipe. Depends on where you want to mount the muffler. I used the stock hanger bracket mid way where the E-break lines are mounted, bolted the universal hanger to it. Then bent a piece of like 3/4" flat stock for the rear bracket with the rubber bushing and a clamp to hold it on. Not the prettiest thing but, not like people can see it. It's functional and sounds cool lol. Did whole thing for well under $150 bucks i'd say. Oh yea, on the down pipe there is gonna be like a 1/2" or 3/4" little piece of pipe. It's for a pipe that goes Up, around behind the motor and forget where it goes to. My CJ didn't have that on it i plugged it with a NPT pipe plug, some high temp silicone and a hose clamp. Been fine for a year and a half now...
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-08-2020, 05:05 AM
ccoyle71
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Also following this thread - as exhaust is is my near future. With no welder (or welding skills) of my own....I was planning on having a shop do it - but this has peaked my curiosity. From what Iíve read and researched.....the ďbendĒ over the rear axle is the hardest part. How
Did you bend the pipe?? Iím big on saving money, but definitely dont want to short-cut things either.

Also have a few other questions:

1. I would think it would be preferable to have welds - as opposed to bolting everything up, correct? I have no prior basis for thinking that.....just seems that it would be less likely to leak in the future. Is this true?
2. Mine (an 86) still has a cat. Iím guessing itís past itís prime, so I donít think Iíd re-use it. I have antique tags....so Iím not worried about smog - but Iím curious if I should replace it or just ditch it. Thoughts?
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-08-2020, 11:10 AM
MrPeter63
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When you buy the tail pipe for around $25 it is pre bent for the over the axle, same as the down pipe from the motor. Everything else is just straight pipe.

Yes, welding is better as the clamps do leak a very little bit, at least until the rust shut lol. You can use a high temp silicone on the joints to seal if you want.

As far as a CAT goes, more of a personal preference. Do you need one? No. Is it good to have one, Yes, as it burns off any unburnt gas and you don't get the pop pop pop when you let off the gas like the old cars did. Thing is, if you are ever off roading on federal property or some state parks(depending on the state laws), you are required to have a spark arrester tip on your exhaust. If you have a CAT, it acts as a spark arrester so no need for anything else. Not like i have ever heard of anybody getting hassled for it but it is the law.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-08-2020, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
agear
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They sell the piece with the axle hump in it.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-09-2020, 09:04 AM
StoneTower
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I remade the front of m exhaust to the front of the converter on my CJ7 that has a 5.0 Mustang motor in it. The previous owner had welded the pipe on the left side of the motor to the collector and cut the collector flange off with a plasma cutter in order to gain some clearance for the clutch slave setup he was running. I am in California and the vehicle has to be inspected by the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR )when you do a motor swap. All parts that are used have to have be stock for the motor's original vehicle or have an Executive Order (EO) number which certifies that the part is SMOG legal for a particular vehicle application and does not raise emissions. I needed new headers and I had a limited number to choose from that had the proper EO number. I started with a set of new BBK ceramic coated headers, I reconfigured the slave cylinder, and I began building the custom exhaust. I ordered mandrel bent 16 gauge aluminum coated pieces of tubing off of Amazon. You can get these in many different angles. I believe that I used 22 degree bends off the headers and then I used a 90 degree to bring the passenger's side exhaust over to the drivers side before it went into the converter. I could not run dual exhaust because the vehicle is certified as having a single converter. If you take your time using the preformed tubing, you can end up with a really nice setup. I am very happy with the results and now I can disconnect the exhasut from the headers if I need to work on the transmission or the transfer case.

You might want to buy yourself a welder and develop the skill to make your own exhaust. I sometimes look at a project like this as an opportunity to purchase an expensive tool that will continue to help me in the future after the current project is finished. If you do not have the cash for a new welder, look on Craigslist for a good brand name MIG welder. If you have a 240 outlet in your garage, try and get a 240 welder as you can weld thicker metal with it. They are like a metal glue gun. A MIG welder is such a handy tool when you have a Jeep. I sold my old MIG welder on Craigslist that I had for 25 years because it was getting difficult to find parts for and it was too small for my needs. I ended up purchasing an ESAB Rebel and I am very happy with it. It will do MIG, stick and DC TIG welling all on the same machine. It will run on 120 volts and 240 volts which makes it great when I need to weld something away from my garage that does not have a 240 volt plug.

Another part that I incorporated into my exhaust is something called a Marmon flange. I think it is a generic term, but I found these and I am extremely happy with the results. They are much better than the standard exhaust flanges and v bands. It makes it great so that you can remove a section of the exhaust to work on something under the Jeep and assembly is easy because they interlock before they are clamped together so it makes putting the band clamp on easy. I do not even run the gaskets and they do not leak.

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post #13 of 15 Old 08-11-2020, 09:35 AM
ccoyle71
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So I'm working on piecing together my new exhaust system - does anyone know if you can get the down-pipe from the manifold WITHOUT the O2 sensor port? I can't seem to find it anywhere (Summit, Quadratec, etc). I've seen that most people just "bend" them over (that's the way mine is now).....but I hate to have that look with a brand new part going on. Here's the section of pipe I'm talking about.....but don't want the port for the sensor:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/5...SABEgInl_D_BwE
Also, for anyone looking at DIY exhaust, Ken444 has a write up on his thread you may want to check out. I'm planning on something very similar:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/k...l#post11739282
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-12-2020, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccoyle71 View Post
So I'm working on piecing together my new exhaust system - does anyone know if you can get the down-pipe from the manifold WITHOUT the O2 sensor port? I can't seem to find it anywhere (Summit, Quadratec, etc). I've seen that most people just "bend" them over (that's the way mine is now).....but I hate to have that look with a brand new part going on. Here's the section of pipe I'm talking about.....but don't want the port for the sensor:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/5...SABEgInl_D_BwE
Also, for anyone looking at DIY exhaust, Ken444 has a write up on his thread you may want to check out. I'm planning on something very similar:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/k...l#post11739282

Look for one for a 78. I do not believe mine had the bung, I got it from Rockauto. The 80's models had the feedback carbs that needed the O2 sensor, where the 70s didn't..

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #15 of 15 Old 08-12-2020, 10:06 PM
StoneTower
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If you are following something similar to what Ken444 did, I assume that you have a welder. Cut the pipe for the O2 sensor off, cut out a little scrap of exhaust pipe and shape it to fit in the hole and weld it in place using a series of tack welds. You could even straighten out the piece that you cut off and use it for the fill piece. For thin metal such as exhaust pipe, you should probably make a series of short tack welds that get 100% penetration but not more than 100%. You don't want the weld burning through or hanging through to the inside of the tube. One can make a really nice weld using a series of short tack welds. There is less distortion using this method and you can turn up the heat and if you keep moving the area you are welding on, you will not burn through the metal. Turn the welder up hot for the thickness of metal you are welding and learn to be fast on the trigger. Grinding is not necessary if the weld turns out as it should. It is a stronger joint if you do not grind and one is less likely to be left with a small pinhole in the weld which would be an easy place for corrosion to start that will rust through the pipe.

A good way to make a round piece of metal to weld into a hole is to take a square piece of metal a little bigger than the hole, drill a small hole in the center, put a small machine screw through the metal and anut the other side. You can then carefully spin the piece of metal with an electric drill while holding it against a grinder or belt sander. When you have the proper size, you remove the screw (or bolt), and weld the hole full when you are welding the piece into the area you are repairing. This works great for filling firewall holes using 18 gauge sheet metal.

It might be hard to find a quality downpipe without the oxygen sensor mount. As Jeep CJs age, there are less and less customers to sell parts to. Manufactures try and slim down the products they offer and they try and make their product cover more years even if the product does not match the original application 100%.

Good luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccoyle71 View Post
So I'm working on piecing together my new exhaust system - does anyone know if you can get the down-pipe from the manifold WITHOUT the O2 sensor port? I can't seem to find it anywhere (Summit, Quadratec, etc). I've seen that most people just "bend" them over (that's the way mine is now).....but I hate to have that look with a brand new part going on. Here's the section of pipe I'm talking about.....but don't want the port for the sensor:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/5...SABEgInl_D_BwE
Also, for anyone looking at DIY exhaust, Ken444 has a write up on his thread you may want to check out. I'm planning on something very similar:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/k...l#post11739282
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