Differential Type? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
Dcotes
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1983 CJ7 
 
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Differential Type?

Hi, 83 CJ7, AMC rearend. Can anyone positively ID this? Do i need a friction modifier if i used a synthetic gear oil with LS on the label?

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 03:40 PM
Fourtrail
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That looks like a detroit locker, so no you do not need any friction modifier, just regular old dino gear oil works best, it is not suggested to use synthetic with a detroit locker.


https://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...ials/index.htm

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Copy that. Thank you
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
Dcotes
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One more question. I have one piece axles, one of which leaks. Does the axle slide out like any other or do i need to do anything in the differential first?
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 03:53 PM
Fourtrail
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No you do not have to do anything in the differential, just unbolt the backing plate and slide the axle out. Unfortunately the seal is on the back side of the bearing so you have to pull everything apart and will need to replace at minimum the retaining ring and likely the bearing to replace the axle seal.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
Dcotes
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Thank You
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 05:19 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello
here is a theory i have about some axles leak and some dont. the inner seal is actually the oil seal to hold the gear lube in the axle housing. the outer seal is just a grease seal. i believe the oil actually leaks around the outer body of the inner seal. its just a theory so people can do with the information what they want.

i installed a 1pc axle about 6 months ago. there was a few things i figured out when installing. first is alot of the time the reason i believe the inner oil seal leaks because its pushed to far in. the outer seal on the shaft is a grease seal. when bolted in it is actually curling the body of the inner seal some and then it leaks around the outside of it. its not something some are doing when pushing the seal in but when bolting it together. the stack up goes the seal in the bore, then the spacer, then the bearing which is outer race. thats whats in the tube on the axle you have the retainer holding the bearing on the shaft. when installing it the bearing has the outer and inner race stuck together. when intalling my inner seal i used a tool that was just like the factory tool. it has stub that goes in the seal and then pushes only body of the seal evenly while keeping it flat on the side sticking out. well unforuently i hit a little to hard and forced in a little to far. big hammer not the correct tool. when i measured the spacer and the bearing installed it was almost flat with the housing. the same place they are when the shaft is bolted in. the seal will deform before the backing plate does. but before i hit it to hard it was at the .070. the specs for moser's kit of having the bearing sticking out is .020-.080. so i bought a couple extra seals and tested my theory. i assembled one side with about .065 sticking out. then i assembled it all and torqued the backing plate. then i removed the axle and bearing spacer. i was able to pull out the seal by hand. the edge of the seal that bottoms out in the tube was curled. the machining of the housing is not flat bottomed for the seal or no flat machined for the spacer. originally there was nothing putting pressure on the seal pushing it in. i believe the spacer is mostly there to transmit pressure to keep the outer race from spinning. the diameter of the new bearing is about .002 smaller then original bearing o.d. then i repeated the test again but this time having the bearing sticking out only .030 by turning down the spacer on a lathe some and using some original axle shims. that is near the lower side of the tolerance. again reinstalled the axle and torqued the backing plate. then removed the axle and spacer but the seal was still in tight. i couldnt remove by hand. my theory is it started to deform some but not enough to come out. when i measured the bearing stickout it was about .015 with that seal in it.

so i installed my axles with the new seals installed coating the outside of the seal with aviation form a gasket #2. it is a paste form of the famous #3. it is a non hardening sealant. it does dry. but can be completely removed later with cleaner like iso alcohol, naptha, or mek. then i installed the spacer, bearing and shaft as the instructions say to do. i havent had a leak yet. knock on steel.

oldschool
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
Dcotes
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Great info. So, at the risk of sounding lazy, are you saying i can pull the axle, leave the bearings and spacer in place, remove the original seal and replace with a new seal? Repack the bearings and reinstall? That would be much easier than a full redo.
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-30-2020, 11:32 PM
Tarneg
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just to triple confirm the diff if it is a detroit you can spin one tire and it should audibly click past each tooth as it ratchets over, theres a few other things too but thats the easiest
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-01-2020, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
Dcotes
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Next chance i get, i'll try spinning the tires.
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