Condenser cooling help - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 47 Old 06-05-2019, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
agear
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I did a test run with my new fan and it brought the high side pressure a lot lower. I need a schematic for wiring the fan to s relay . I want to wire to the a/c unit so it comes on only when the a/c comes on


1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #32 of 47 Old 06-07-2019, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Okay I got my electric fan wired up to come on only with the A/C . That seems to work fine. Its 73 degrees here but it feels warmer in my garage where it was running. My high side pressure was 175 and my low side was 16. My vent temperature was 39 degrees . The instructions that came with the kit said the pressures should be 15-28 on the low side and 180 - 220 on the high side but it didnt specify the outdoor temperature. Do you think that's ok ?
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #33 of 47 Old 06-07-2019, 07:58 PM
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I'd say you're good. Enjoy!!

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post #34 of 47 Old 06-08-2019, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Update: I put my a/c on a less cool setting and my compressor started kicking on and off again back to back . I think it's only when it's on a less cool setting. I guessing in this case my pressures are getting too low rather than high. I'm going out there to check

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #35 of 47 Old 06-08-2019, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Yeah my low side is going up to almost 60 and high side 120 and then the compressor kicks in and out . On max cold my low side is below what instructions say on the low side - like 13. They said 15-28 on the low

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #36 of 47 Old 06-08-2019, 07:46 PM
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You have called Jeepair already? They do provide tech advice for their system.

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post #37 of 47 Old 06-08-2019, 09:13 PM
Boojo35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Yeah my low side is going up to almost 60 and high side 120 and then the compressor kicks in and out . On max cold my low side is below what instructions say on the low side - like 13. They said 15-28 on the low
Once again... You may not use your words well or tell a story well. Your compressor should kick off when the low side pressure is very low to keep the evap core from freezing or when the high side pressure is high to prevent damage.

Does the compressor kick back on at 60 low side or kick off?


Man. Ac theory, pressures and diagnostics are not something for a novice although,,,, you seem to be doing ok so far.

At 60 low side and 120 high side I would expect it to kick back on. Then again.... It matters on what type of system you have. Orifice tube or expansion valve.... Then there are the newer systems that monitor freon flow into the compressor..... all of that matters on if the compressor should cycle at all or when it should cycle.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #38 of 47 Old 06-22-2019, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Yeah my low side is going up to almost 60 and high side 120 and then the compressor kicks in and out . On max cold my low side is below what instructions say on the low side - like 13. They said 15-28 on the low
Once again... You may not use your words well or tell a story well. Your compressor should kick off when the low side pressure is very low to keep the evap core from freezing or when the high side pressure is high to prevent damage.

Does the compressor kick back on at 60 low side or kick off?


Man. Ac theory, pressures and diagnostics are not something for a novice although,,,, you seem to be doing ok so far.

At 60 low side and 120 high side I would expect it to kick back on. Then again.... It matters on what type of system you have. Orifice tube or expansion valve.... Then there are the newer systems that monitor freon flow into the compressor..... all of that matters on if the compressor should cycle at all or when it should cycle.
Yes with my t stat on a not as cold setting the compressor kicks back on when the low gets to 60 and the high gets to 120. I do see a tiny bit of seepage of a/c oil around the hose fitting on the compressor. Dont know how much a factor a tiny leak is. I snuggled that up. We'll see what it does.

When I have the a/c on max cold my pressures were relatively stable and my compressor was staying on. . But i guess the other the other day it was just a little hotter out than it had been recently and I'll be damn if the compressor didnt start kicking off and on again.

Im just putting this information out here to see if anybody notices oh yes that means such and such is the problem or any ideas . The whole a/c system is relatively brand new (, a couple months). So bad parts would be less of a possibility. Tech support said they didnt think it was overcharged nor the compressor bad. Also, adding the electric fan brought my pressures down a lit. Just a recap.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #39 of 47 Old 06-28-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Added a second condenser fan. Tomorrow should be 96 degrees so we'll see how it does

John strenk to add this second fan I just spliced to the wires of the first fan. I didnt run a wire of the new fan all the way to the relay. Is that gonna be a load problem ? Either way I know its correct to run the power wire of the 2nd fan to the relay with the other fan
I guess I'm alright in the meantime because the power wire for the fan is puny and I'm running ten gauge- twice the diameter of their power and ground wire
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #40 of 47 Old 06-28-2019, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Added a second condenser fan. Tomorrow should be 96 degrees so we'll see how it does

John strenk to add this second fan I just spliced to the wires of the first fan. I didnt run a wire of the new fan all the way to the relay. Is that gonna be a load problem ? Either way I know its correct to run the power wire of the 2nd fan to the relay with the other fan
I guess I'm alright in the meantime because the power wire for the fan is puny and I'm running ten gauge- twice the diameter of their power and ground wire
They probably will only run at half speed each if in series.

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post #41 of 47 Old 06-29-2019, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Because of having less conductor. The only difference is its spliced into the wire at the other fan rather than at the terminal at the relay. Just a different place along the wire . I think its series parallel. And I also shared the ground with the other fan

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #42 of 47 Old 06-29-2019, 10:57 AM
DirtyBastard82
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Hello, my friend!
I use a double SPAL fan on my cj, with an air flow rate of 2125 CFM.

this is a video of the work performed, but it is in Italian

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post #43 of 47 Old 06-29-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
agear
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I think I'm good as far as the wiring goes and it helped give me lower temps. But for some reason when I put the thermostat to warmer the compressor switches on and of when I get to 25 low side and 170 high side

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #44 of 47 Old 06-30-2019, 11:33 AM
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Sounds like you wired the fans parallel, red to red, black to black. That's fine, 10Ga should be fine.



Can you move the passenger side fan lower? Looks like some airflow is over the edge of the condenser, I'd want it more in the finned area.

Do you have a fan shroud for the mechanical fan? If not, that would help immensely.

As for the reliability of the electric, If you are using a Contour fan as mentioned, you have to figure those do not fail that often, as they would have to be reliable in their original purpose. I could understand if you were trying to rig a Harbor Freight general purpose fan for this, but I would say as long as you keep with a good brand name part, you should be safe.

Rick

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post #45 of 47 Old 06-30-2019, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Sounds like you wired the fans parallel, red to red, black to black. That's fine, 10Ga should be fine.



Can you move the passenger side fan lower? Looks like some airflow is over the edge of the condenser, I'd want it more in the finned area.

Do you have a fan shroud for the mechanical fan? If not, that would help immensely.

As for the reliability of the electric, If you are using a Contour fan as mentioned, you have to figure those do not fail that often, as they would have to be reliable in their original purpose. I could understand if you were trying to rig a Harbor Freight general purpose fan for this, but I would say as long as you keep with a good brand name part, you should be safe.
I do have a shroud I had to cut to make it fit which opened it up a little .
Yeah I can make sure the fan is only over the fins.
Yeah my brother in law told me , when I mentioned I'd rather have something simpler but he said that's what they said about such and such but they're dependable. You get the idea
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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