cj5 ford302-np435-dana20 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
troy.j
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cj5 ford302-np435-dana20

New to forum.
This is the plan for a 78 cj5. (cj5 ford302-np435-dana20) I got the trans for 100 with bell housing, new clutch, and flywheel. I have a rebuilt 302. I haven’t got the adapter for trans to t/c or motor mounts yet. My question is, will I have a rear driveline? Can I move the motor forward enough to keep the T/C where it is? What would you all recommend? This CJ will see as much time on the road as off. It currently has an i-6 t-150 Dana 20. Thanks for your help.

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post #2 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 12:32 PM
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You will need to check the overall length. While you can find a 435 that will bolt directly to the engine,the stock Ford adapter for the 20 is quite long. Personally, the 258 is a good motor, and geared properly and with the right trans will perform very well. However, you need to tell us more as to what youn are looking to get out of your Jeep with your proposed swap.
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post #3 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 02:28 PM
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I hope to start my swap next month. 302, Ford NP435, and Dana 300. The adapter is just over 4". Over all length is pretty close but I have'nt measured close enough to see if I can use the stock drive shafts. I just expected to have some built. With your CJ5 you will have to watch the length of the rear shaft.

Check here for trans info http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/

Check these two for adapters http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/
http://www.novak-adapt.com/

I've done a lot of research, so ask, if you have any questions.

Welcome!!

80 CJ7 Laredo-351W, NP435, D300, D30/AMC20, TJ flares, 36" TSL's, 3"BL, spray in liner, tube bumpers, and KC's.
69 F150-Hot 302. Project street truck.
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post #4 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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I am looking at the adapter and main-shaft from novac. The np235 is 1 inch longer then the t-150 I believe. The adapter is 4 point “some” inches long. That makes… say 5.5 inches to make up. If I can use the 302 for a shorter motor and move it all forward, I think that would be best, but I don’t know what I will run into doing that. Can I afford to give up 5 inches in driveline in the back of a cj5?
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post #5 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
troy.j
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000
You will need to check the overall length. While you can find a 435 that will bolt directly to the engine,the stock Ford adapter for the 20 is quite long. Personally, the 258 is a good motor, and geared properly and with the right trans will perform very well. However, you need to tell us more as to what youn are looking to get out of your Jeep with your proposed swap.
I don’t want to use the stock ford adapter, the NOVAC adapter is only 4" long. I plan on a 4" skyjacker lift. I believe they are the softest and allow for the most flex from a spring pack while being affordable (if I am wrong please tell me). I have swapped the rear axle shafts for solid ones. I intend to install a locker of some sort in the font and rear, I haven’t decided on air or electric lockers yet. The jeep will be used for hunting, crawling, and snow trips with my two boys.
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post #6 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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is it posible to move the rear axle back an inch to three inches?
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post #7 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troy.j
is it posible to move the rear axle back an inch to three inches?
Many opinions on springs around here. Use the search button to see some threads.

You can check in the vendor section to get quotes for the lift too.

I'm sure some experienced people will jump in and help with the axle Q's. There are a lot of sharp people here.

80 CJ7 Laredo-351W, NP435, D300, D30/AMC20, TJ flares, 36" TSL's, 3"BL, spray in liner, tube bumpers, and KC's.
69 F150-Hot 302. Project street truck.
94 Land Cruiser-33" MTX's (my wife's)
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post #8 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 07:59 PM
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When you get the engine mounts for your 302 you can put them anywhere you like. The 302 is shorter than the I6 so you can save some inches there by moving the engine up, consider electric fans as well. When you get your old drive line out just adjust the new one until you get the proper fit and then weld in your engine mounts. The important thing is to check the fit with the mounts held on with something like c-clamps and then recheck the fit, ensure it is exactly where you want it before you weld.

Good Luck

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post #9 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 08:11 PM
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I know you got a link to Novak earler but check this out...

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge..._cj7_76-79.htm

'76 CJ5, 304-3 speed, 2.5" lift w/ 32x11.50's, Man. 4 wheel Drums and Man. Steering (LOTS OF FUN)
'01 Silverado CC/SB 2500HD Dmax 4X4

"Americans love a winner. Americans will not tolerate a loser. Americans despise cowards. Americans play to win all of the time. I wouldn't give a hoot in hell for a man who lost and laughed. That's why Americans have never lost nor will ever lose a war; for the very idea of losing is hateful to an American." Patton's speech to the 3rd Army on the night before D-Day.
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post #10 of 22 Old 03-02-2007, 10:33 PM
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Before you move your engine all the way forward make sure that you can reach you shifter.

If you have a front sump 302 be sure that you have enough clearance. You can get an early Bronco or truck pan for rear sump (be sure to get the oil pickup too).

I think with a 4" shorter drive shaft and a 4" lift you are going to have problems with drive shaft angle. You can't rotate your axle too far up or you will have problems with lubricating you pinion bearings. I just had dealings with a CJ5 with a SBC and too much lift that was not oiling the pinion.
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post #11 of 22 Old 03-03-2007, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCCJ5ER
I know you got a link to Novak earler but check this out...

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge..._cj7_76-79.htm
thanks, i did not know that the jeep motor was not center. interesting. i would have had a lot of fun trying to figure that out when it came time to put in the new mounts. i have been all over novac looking at trans and case options, but hadn't madt it to looking at motor yet. i think i can make this come together and do it right.

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post #12 of 22 Old 03-03-2007, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbtriumph
Before you move your engine all the way forward make sure that you can reach you shifter.

If you have a front sump 302 be sure that you have enough clearance. You can get an early Bronco or truck pan for rear sump (be sure to get the oil pickup too).

I think with a 4" shorter drive shaft and a 4" lift you are going to have problems with drive shaft angle. You can't rotate your axle too far up or you will have problems with lubricating you pinion bearings. I just had dealings with a CJ5 with a SBC and too much lift that was not oiling the pinion.
the shifter crossed my mind, but i think with a custom bent rod and a little work with the hump and tunnel it will be ok. what i havent figured out is the clutch set up....

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post #13 of 22 Old 03-03-2007, 05:50 PM
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What axels/upgrades do you plan on using?
What suspension mods do you plan on later doing?- axel relocation, _inch lift etc...
Do you plan on using the exaust maifolds or headers?-what kind
What are you doing about the wiring harness? -painless, stock etc..?
What year 302/mods?

Sorry, for all the questions. But, I can't help until they are answered.
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post #14 of 22 Old 03-04-2007, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genius411abcd
What axels/upgrades do you plan on using?
What suspension mods do you plan on later doing?- axel relocation, _inch lift etc...
Do you plan on using the exaust maifolds or headers?-what kind
What are you doing about the wiring harness? -painless, stock etc..?
What year 302/mods?

Sorry, for all the questions. But, I can't help until they are answered.
1) front and rear are stock at this time except for the one-piece rear. I plan on rotating the rear to help out with the back driveline. I think I may be able to move it back an inch when I install the four inch lift. I haven't decided on air, electric, or manual differential lockers yet.

2) Was going to go with a four inch skyjacker with pitman arm.

3) Headers are preferable, but I have the stock manifolds that came with the engine. I don't care either way.

4) Stock for now, but will probably look into an American Autowire later.

5) I have two 302 engines. One is in a running '94 Ford F-150 with fuel injections and automatic transmission. The other is out of a '78 Granada. I have the small bellhousing, clutch, pressure plate that will bolt to the Granada motor. Since I am not a Ford man, I do not know if it will bolt to the '94 FI motor.

I hope that this answered all of your questions. Thanks, in advance, for your help.

99 tj, 00 wj, 95 yj

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post #15 of 22 Old 03-04-2007, 01:38 AM
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''Since I am not a Ford man, I do not know if it will bolt to the '94 FI motor. ''
It should,bolt patterns the same..

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