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post #16 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 02:17 AM
IMMORTEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight_C View Post
I bought some tires. I went with a Kenda 32x11.50r15. At least I can drive it now. So on the to-do list: (1)fix the radiator hose, (2)get this rig up on a lift and see if there's something janky going on with the suspension/driveline making the rear end sit that far back.

It goes down the road well and it's not TOO terrifying at 65mph, so I suspect there's nothing super terrible going on with the driveline. I wonder if the previous owner set the rear end back to make the rear driveshaft longer after the 350 swap???

Further ideas, suggestions, and criticism are welcome.

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New tires look great, really cleans up the look of the Jeep

I agree; if you can take it up to speeds of 65 mph without feeling like you are a trying to control a sailboat during a storm, then I don’t think the driveline is that bad.

Have you taken it to get an alignment, and have both the front and rear wheels inspected?


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post #17 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 02:20 AM
IMMORTEN
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Might be a stupid question, but is it possible to just take a utility knife and cut maybe 4” (ish) off the bottom part of the radiator hose, to eliminate that big upward turning loop where an air pocket will likely form?


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post #18 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 07:23 AM
pedal2themetai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMMORTEN View Post
Might be a stupid question, but is it possible to just take a utility knife and cut maybe 4” (ish) off the bottom part of the radiator hose, to eliminate that big upward turning loop where an air pocket will likely form?


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Yes you can just cut the bottom I stated that in my post.
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post #19 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
Yes you can just cut the bottom I stated that in my post.


Oh apologies for missing that


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post #20 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 12:25 PM
80cj
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What transmission and transfer case is that? SM465/205? Probably the reason the drive shaft is so short. Having the rearend toward the rear as it is helps make room for the drive shaft.
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post #21 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty sure it's an SM465 with a 205. It was built using a 79 Chevy pickup running gear. I think the SM420 is much earlier than that. Also, I had a few extra minutes and hooked up a tach. Cruises down the freeway at 65mph running 2500rpm.

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'75 CJ-5 350/SM465
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post #22 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 05:01 PM
pedal2themetai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight_C View Post
It was built using a 79 Chevy pickup running gear.

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so I was most likely right about the upper hose being from a truck
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post #23 of 32 Old 10-20-2019, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
so I was most likely right about the upper hose being from a truck
Yeah. As soon as I can drain the coolant, I'm going to cut a new hose that doesnt have a huge air pocket like that. Probably won't be driving it until I get that fixed.

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'75 CJ-5 350/SM465
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post #24 of 32 Old 10-21-2019, 06:39 AM
pedal2themetai
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Hi, probably don't need to cut a new hose that one looks almost new just cut the end at the thermostat and turn it down to level?
good luck
tim
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post #25 of 32 Old 10-21-2019, 10:27 AM
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i would consider swapping out the overly long shackles for shorter ones and put a proper set of springs in to get the lift you want. Long shackles tend to create sway in the vehicle and can lead to handling issues.

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post #26 of 32 Old 10-21-2019, 11:21 AM
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I would look for a new correct 1.5" upper radiator hose as that one per the part number is 1.5" at one end and 1.25" at the other and it has already been cut once and stretched badly to fit over the thermostat housing.



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post #27 of 32 Old 10-21-2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI, You might want to check and see if your wheel base is the same on both sides. This tire looks more centered on this side over the other one being way towards the back of the wheel well? Also X the measurment ( LF to RR hard points ) to check centering.
good luck
tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight_C View Post
Thank you. I just measured from the front of the spring perch to the center of the rear leaf spring eye bolt. It measured 20.5 inches on each side. When I can finally get it in the air, I'll do the cross measure. I also noticed something else interesting while I was down there. The spring perches welded on the axle have three holes. Is that normal for aftermarket spring perches?

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Yes, This is interesting.

rear-tire-offset.jpg


Yes, a lot of weld-in perches have 3 holes in them.
Looks like they are both in the center hole.

And you already checked the mount to the bolt on the spring is the same.

Still like to see center-to-center of the front to rear axle are the same.
It might just be the way camera perspective is making it look odd.
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post #28 of 32 Old 10-21-2019, 01:31 PM
pedal2themetai
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HI, yes if the rear end is not centered it well give it some rear steer. When you step on the gas does it want to turn one way or the other and not drive straight that would be a sign of a misaligned rear end.
good luck
tim
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post #29 of 32 Old 10-21-2019, 01:54 PM
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If you decide to move the rearend to the center perch hole position, you'll probably have to grind the height of your centering bolts down.
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post #30 of 32 Old 10-21-2019, 02:47 PM
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Those are the incorrect spring center pins. The head of the pin should be tight in the spring perch hole, if they are loose the spring will move back and forth and eventually break the center bolt.


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