CJ Sport Cage Dash Tie-in's CNC PLASMA CUT - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 60 Old 08-13-2011, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
jatepper
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CJ Sport Cage Dash Tie-in's CNC PLASMA CUT

A few months back I bought the OR Fab CJ sport cage kit. It came with special brackets that bolt to your dash, and then the forward bars from the main hoop tie in to these on the top platform of the bracket. Pretty clever design. Unfortunately, the kit is somewhere around $350 and the tubes are not mandrel bent.

So, I decided to have at it with my Torchmate CNC plasma table. I took some measurements and made my own sport cage tie-ins. These brackets utilize all the factory holes. The passenger side is cut allow clearance for the glove box and the gusset is slotted so the passenger grab handle can still go on as it should.

I designed these to be basically "dummy proof". I programmed the "T" cut out on the back piece so there is no fooling around with alignment once they get welded up. Simply place the gusset and the top platform in the grooves and weld them up (of course you have to make sure they are perpendicular to the back piece). Basically, a no-brainer install.

I'm getting ready to mass produce these and I will throw them on my EBay site tonight. Let me know what you all think. Keep in mind this set-up is not considered a "roll cage". They may provide a little bit of protection, but they are not designed for a vehicle roll like a real roll bar is.

Here are pics of my pricey OR Fab roll cage brackets. Dimensionally, these are very similar, but not the same. I slotted the bolt holes to allow a tolerence when installing and my gussets are a little longer for a bit more support.

THESE ARE THE ORF BRACKETS SO YOU CAN GET AN IDEA OF HOW THESE INSTALL. I DID NOT FABRICATE THESE....








AND HERE ARE THE ONES I MADE TODAY.....












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post #2 of 60 Old 08-13-2011, 10:34 PM
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I suspect that type of cage would hold up pretty well in a flop or even upside-down. Maybe not if you went end-over-end, but lots of cages wouldn't handle that.
How much do you think you'll ask for them?

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post #3 of 60 Old 08-13-2011, 11:00 PM
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Looks good!
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post #4 of 60 Old 08-13-2011, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
I suspect that type of cage would hold up pretty well in a flop or even upside-down. Maybe not if you went end-over-end, but lots of cages wouldn't handle that.
How much do you think you'll ask for them?
PM if interested. Can't really discuss prices on the forum.... I'm not a vendor.

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post #5 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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What would you guys change to make this a little better? What about changing the gusset from a design with circles to something a little more custom.....like this oIIIIIo ?

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post #6 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jatepper View Post
What would you guys change to make this a little better? What about changing the gusset from a design with circles to something a little more custom.....like this oIIIIIo ?
Thats a good idea....something to differentiate them from ORF. The above suggestion, would it have to be vertical to fit?....that would look kind of goofy. Maybe put it where the "ORF" is on their brackets. I've got a good idea for you on what to replace the holes with....I'll draw it up in CAD and post it up shortly. Whats the rough dimensions of that plate?

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post #7 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 09:07 AM
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I saw some on another truck, same idea but instead of using flat plate 45 into the vertical, they used square tubing 45 into the vertical
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post #8 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 09:20 AM
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Are you going to fab the forward bars to make it a kit?

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post #9 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 09:26 AM
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I originally thought it would be neat to have the thumbs up smiley, , right side up and the thumbs down smiley, , upside down......but I don't think there is enough room. So how about something like these? The gray areas are removed metal, the rest stays in tact. Definitely would set them apart from others, maybe a bit lame though?


'84 CJ-17: 17" stretch, locked Toy axles, 5.5" lift, FI, AX15, D300 w/twin sticks, boatsides & junk.
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post #10 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 09:32 AM
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Good job! Looks real good.

Seems like it wouldn't be to hard to run a piece of 2" square tube behind the dash vertically at the A pilliar. Nice and tight to the dash and tub with a plate at the floor. Could bolt it together to tie it to the frame, plus it would keep the leg room.
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post #11 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by boomvader View Post
Are you going to fab the forward bars to make it a kit?
I'm not going to do the bars. That is why this is for the DIY'er. Plus, I would have to charge a lot more then $41 for the pair. It would also be too costly to ship these with the bars.

Quote:
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I originally thought it would be neat to have the thumbs up smiley, , right side up and the thumbs down smiley, , upside down......but I don't think there is enough room. So how about something like these? The gray areas are removed metal, the rest stays in tact. Definitely would set them apart from others, maybe a bit lame though?

DUDE!!!!! THOSE ARE AWESOME!!! I'm gonna shoot you a PM with my email address. Would you mind sharing those with me? I'm still a beginner and I would have no clue how to make those on my own just yet.

IIRC, the gussets are 3"x5.25". So, picture a 3x5.25 rectangle cut in half diagonally.

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post #12 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jatepper View Post
i'm not going to do the bars. That is why this is for the diy'er. Plus, i would have to charge a lot more then $41 for the pair. It would also be too costly to ship these with the bars.
ok

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post #13 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jatepper View Post
I'm not going to do the bars. That is why this is for the DIY'er. Plus, I would have to charge a lot more then $41 for the pair. It would also be too costly to ship these with the bars.



DUDE!!!!! THOSE ARE AWESOME!!! I'm gonna shoot you a PM with my email address. Would you mind sharing those with me? I'm still a beginner and I would have no clue how to make those on my own just yet.

IIRC, the gussets are 3"x5.25". So, picture a 3x5.25 rectangle cut in half diagonally.
For sure man, no problem! If you have the exact dimensions with the notch for the grab bar and everything I can recreate it and make sure it fits the piece properly. Or if you trust me, a .dxf or .dwg of what you used would be best. How wide of a cut does the plasma make? In the above image I assumed it would be about 1/8", is that about right?

'84 CJ-17: 17" stretch, locked Toy axles, 5.5" lift, FI, AX15, D300 w/twin sticks, boatsides & junk.
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post #14 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 11:56 AM
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Is there any way to add a hole, or make to glove box notch bigger so you can attach the grab bar? Of course, with a hole, you would have to add a spacer on left side to match the bracket thickness. Just a thought.
Maybe "CJ" cut in the vertical pieces.

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post #15 of 60 Old 08-14-2011, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patter View Post
Is there any way to add a hole, or make to glove box notch bigger so you can attach the grab bar? Of course, with a hole, you would have to add a spacer on left side to match the bracket thickness. Just a thought.
Maybe "CJ" cut in the vertical pieces.
Look at picture # 5 in the first post. The gap between the welds and the hole shown are so the grab bar can slip under the gusset and be bolted down.....correct jatepper?

Putting CJ on them probably isn't the best for mass production as they could work for YJ guys as well. But then again, I'm not the one making them!

'84 CJ-17: 17" stretch, locked Toy axles, 5.5" lift, FI, AX15, D300 w/twin sticks, boatsides & junk.
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