CJ Proportioning block metering valve pin pulled in or out when bleeding brakes? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-11-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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CJ Proportioning block metering valve pin pulled in or out when bleeding brakes?

Hello fellow Jeeper’s,

I recently replaced all my brakes lines and master cylinder, I did a standard bleed of the mc and the rest of the system. The brake warning light has come up a few times.
I saw in the manual there is a special tool you are suppose to use on the metering valve. I’ve did endless research on the forums and didn’t see a definitive answer whether the metering valve should be (depressed in or pulled out).

My 1st question is, when using this tool does the metering valve pin need to be pushed in or pulled out? OTC Tool #7853 which replaces J-26869 - Not sure how this tool works, there are no instructions on-line and I called OTC and they had no information either.

Also another tool comes up, the proportioning valve brake bleeder helper which threads into the brake warning switch. A threaded tool with a nub. Part CLP-PV-Tool Summit Racing

2nd question, does this tool threaded nub tool negate the factory way of using the depressing tool?

I’ll include some pictures.

3rd question, does my metering valve look correct in operational order?

I think I have a “W” block proportioning valve. There are five “W”’s on it, not sure if that determines it is a “W” block?

Any information would be much appreciated! Thank you, AC

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-11-2019, 01:26 PM
rixcj
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I made a tool that keeps that center pin pushed in while bleeding the brakes.


Rich
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #3 of 13 Old 09-11-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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Hi Rich

Hi Rich, Thanks for response. Can you explain at all how you made the tool or post a picture? AC
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-11-2019, 04:05 PM
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I have nerf (step-up) bars. Coincidentally,one of the bolts that goes through the nerf bar flange to secure it to the frame, happens to be at the pin end of the prop valve.


So, I made a little "tool" that holds the pin "IN". The tool is a little piece of steel flat bar with a 3/8" hole in it that fits the frame bolt. Then, there is a piece of 1/4" steel round bar that acts like a "finger" to press against the pin, welded to the flat bar.


I remove the nut from the bolt. Then, the tool slips onto the bolt and when I rotate the tool (on the bolt) toward the prop valve pin, the finger pushes against the pin. Then, I tighten up the nut.


This holds the pin pushed in while I bleed the brakes.


Maybe a c-clamp across the prop valve would work??



Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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Hi Rich,

Thanks again for response, really appreciate it. I think I can in-vision what you built. Does the pin depress in very deep or does it just need to be just flattened until you can't see it?
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 09:37 AM
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I just push it in until the head of the pin sits flush with that nut. Like if you pushed a flat object against the head of the pin, and the flat object stopped once it hit the nut, because it can't go any further.


My jeep has GREAT brakes!


Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 01:54 PM
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Pictures of the tool!

RN
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 02:58 PM
RedNeckCorvette
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Last time my rear brakes came on to soon, I threw it into reveres and mashed on the gas hard while looking over my shoulder then slammed on the brakes to reset the metering valve or proportioning valve on my rig. It worked.
RN
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 03:57 PM
rixcj
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Some proportioning valves "push in", and some "pull out"...


Check out page 2G- 25,26 of this chapter...


http://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm/Part%202%20Section%20G.pdf


Rich
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-13-2019, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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Again, much appreciated Rich. Going to tackle the job tonight after work. I'll keep you posted how it turns out.
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-13-2019, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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This PDF is so nice, its really great! Also, saw the tool picture. I think I get how you did by looking at tool. That helps a lot.
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post #12 of 13 Old 09-13-2019, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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Rich, did do you have the D valve or W valve?
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-13-2019, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJwranglerjeeps View Post
Rich, did do you have the D valve or W valve?

Type-W valve.


Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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