CJ Hood Louver - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
30YR_MCPO
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CJ Hood Louver

Running headers to glasspacks to tailpipe in nice 95/100 degree humity/heat - need to give some relief to my under hood componets. From start to finish about 5 hours.

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post #2 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 02:43 PM
caseypotts
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I've spent hours pondering this mod myself. Running a LS1 and pulling a M416 it gets pretty warm.

What do you think the drop in temp has been on any given day?
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post #3 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
30YR_MCPO
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I was reading 600-620 off the header - actually the reading from the source was unchanged, however the surrounding components was very noticeable - first i could open the hood without 3rd degree burns - lol - and i put my hand over the vent slots and your can feel that hot air being push out from the engine instead of it just circulating around the engine just baking stuff.
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post #4 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 07:20 PM
MetalMountainGoat
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Out of curiosity, and fighting overheating problems as well, who makes this?
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post #5 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 08:10 PM
Cutlass327
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Hope you don't like the fresh air coming in the vent system - that hot air and fumes are going to come out those louvers and right into the heater/vent system. I can also see heavy rain issues, is that back row scooped forward or is it an optical trick from the picture?

You could also look into a vent in the fender area. I have seen tube fenders with a screen in them, was looking for that for an example but found these with louvers. I imagine you can get something like this to install on regular fenders. All fumes would go out the sides then:


https://www.carid.com/1976-jeep-cj-f...206358830.html

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #6 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 08:18 PM
gutthans
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Nice work...I opted for a side-hood venting on several projects...Here's one with Ski Nautique ABS vents on a 'glass hood
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post #7 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 08:34 PM
CSP
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A 1/2" spacers between the cowl portion of the hood hinges and the cowl itself opens up a nice gap along the entire back edge of the hood for hot air to escape through.

No cutting up a hood that's getting harder and harder to replace either.
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post #8 of 17 Old 09-09-2019, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30YR_MCPO View Post
Running headers to glasspacks to tailpipe in nice 95/100 degree humity/heat - need to give some relief to my under hood componets. From start to finish about 5 hours.
What fans are you running?

The reason i ask is that I do not find my humble stock 258s here in the tropics heating up the hood appreciably. There is plenty of space under the Jeep and around the engine compared to your V8 but maybe it is the stock mechanical fans I use as they blow plenty back and down.

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post #9 of 17 Old 09-10-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
30YR_MCPO
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Just stock clutch belt driven fan. Its was this louver or electric fans. After about 100 hours rewiring this with a centech wire kit - really just wasnt feelng like hacking my wiring. Everthing works for the first time in 15 years.

Sucking hot air and exhaust - i did take that into account - since this air is pushed from underneath and if i was leaking exhaust your correct, it'd be a major issue. For that very reason my pipes go all the way back via in frame is keeping exhaust far away as poss.

I really like those ABS vents / looks nice on that Wrangler.

Does anyone know how to reply to questions so you reply directly to the person that asked the question?
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-10-2019, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30YR_MCPO View Post

Does anyone know how to reply to questions so you reply directly to the person that asked the question?
Use the quote function at the bottom of the post display. Cut out what you don't want in the quote as you answer.
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post #11 of 17 Old 09-10-2019, 10:44 PM
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Few electric fans will put out as much as the mechanical which could pull as much as 3500cfm. Dual Ford Contour electric fans at least, think they are rated at about 3000cfm. There are pros and cons of electric fans, but the stock fan is plenty big enough to keep the engine bay cool on a hot day IF IT IS IN GOOD CONDITION.

The clutch has a coil in the front that extends when hot and opens a valve to allow viscous silicone to enter the main chamber which then reduces the slip between the inner drive shaft and the outer casing. Typically we should expect to get the outer casing to spin at about 70-75% of the shaft speed when hot. When cold it should spin max at about 300 rpm at idle.

However the clutch wears about 2-3% per annum, the amount of lockup on an old clutch could be quite low and whilst it still works you can drop over years to 30-40% lockup and the low 2000 cfms. Hard to test the degree of wear without a photo-tachometer, but if you have oil leaks or play or rattles, it is toast. At $40 on an older Jeep, you should consider swapping it out.

Changing this part could draw much more air for you when it is hot, there are also models with higher lockup of 80-90% and, if fuel savings are not important, there are non-clutch fans you can put in there. Also ensuring the cowl around the fan is reasonably snugged up to the radiator etc..
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post #12 of 17 Old 09-11-2019, 08:41 AM
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OP, you also may want to look into having your headers ceramic coated. The heat radiating out of the thin long tubes is likely contributing the most to your underhood temps. Ceramic coating them inside and out will keep the exhaust heat in the exhaust system and going out the tailpipe rather than into the engine bay.
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-11-2019, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
OP, you also may want to look into having your headers ceramic coated. The heat radiating out of the thin long tubes is likely contributing the most to your underhood temps. Ceramic coating them inside and out will keep the exhaust heat in the exhaust system and going out the tailpipe rather than into the engine bay.
This is what you'll get with a ceramic coat...the set on my other project (sold) looks the same after 8 years running.
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-11-2019, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Hope you don't like the fresh air coming in the vent system - that hot air and fumes are going to come out those louvers and right into the heater/vent system. I can also see heavy rain issues, is that back row scooped forward or is it an optical trick from the picture?

You could also look into a vent in the fender area. I have seen tube fenders with a screen in them, was looking for that for an example but found these with louvers. I imagine you can get something like this to install on regular fenders. All fumes would go out the sides then:


https://www.carid.com/1976-jeep-cj-f...206358830.html
I was thinking about that. The air in that area is actually going forward to the front of the jeep when moving. That's why those accessory vent scoops work best when facing rearward when mounted on the vent. Even the JK vents scoops mount with the opening to the back of the jeep.

Tape some yarn there to see what I mean.
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post #15 of 17 Old 09-11-2019, 12:04 PM
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Slow speeds and engine fan blowing out the louvers, blower pulling air in...

I'm also picturing the "bubble" effect like in a pickup bed, air comes in and it tumbles around, carrying fumes. Even the way they come in the back window of the Jeep.

78 CJ5 302HO, T177/D300, 86 WT 30/44, Aussie F/R

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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