CJ Heater Box Restoration...pic heavy!! - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 441 Old 11-23-2010, 03:59 PM
Blue84JeepCJ7
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Hi Guys!! I spent all day yesterday and most of today rebuilding my vent box and heater box. I have some photos uploading and will post them as well as some more when I finish then tomorrow or Thursday...or buy the weekend...lol


84 CJ-7
Chevy 350, Mild Cam. (325hp)
Summit (600 CFM) Carb.
1987 TH700R4 "K" Case
32x11.5x15 Cooper ATs
3" Body Lift
Be-Cool Radiator
Black Magic 175 Cooling Fan


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post #92 of 441 Old 11-23-2010, 04:10 PM
Blue84JeepCJ7
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Here are a few "during" phots I made today.







84 CJ-7
Chevy 350, Mild Cam. (325hp)
Summit (600 CFM) Carb.
1987 TH700R4 "K" Case
32x11.5x15 Cooper ATs
3" Body Lift
Be-Cool Radiator
Black Magic 175 Cooling Fan


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post #93 of 441 Old 11-24-2010, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
rixcj
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I've gotten a lot of PM's asking what the part numbers are for the water resistant, self-adhesive foam that I used, so I decided to post them. I got the foam from Mc-Master-Carr.com.


The 1/4" foam is #86225K53, about $11.81 for a 24" square sheet.

The 1" is # 86225K57, about 25.88 for the same size sheet.

These are both self adhesive. I didn't end up sticking on the 1" thick piece, I left the protective paper on the cut piece I made, in case I wanted to ever remove it. It stays on fine without the adhesive.

So, if you wanted to, you could save a few bucks and order #86225K17, which is the same stuff, but non-adhesive. It costs around $21.67.

Rich.

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #94 of 441 Old 11-26-2010, 08:01 AM
2Xtreme
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What's the best way to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the motor, since there is already a hole there?
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post #95 of 441 Old 11-26-2010, 08:44 AM
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
What's the best way to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the motor, since there is already a hole there?
Use a thin piece of plywood like Luan Plywood that you can cover the hole with and large enough to screw to the firewall using existing holes. Outline the existing hole with a pencil or better yet use a compass to find the center of the hole. Drill a small pilot hole, 1/8" drill bit, in the center of the hole to use as a guide when drilling the larger hole with the right size Hole Saw for the new blower motor.




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post #96 of 441 Old 11-26-2010, 12:03 PM
hp_lovecraft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
What's the best way to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the motor, since there is already a hole there?
I tried an alternate approach.
I made the same outline, then drilled 30-40 small holes.

Next I was going to connect the holes using a small hacksaw, but it turned out to be too time consuming. So instead, I drilled out the small holes using a larger drill bit that connected them.

Ended up being very time consuming..... live and learn
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post #97 of 441 Old 11-26-2010, 09:56 PM
MikeDumbo
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Thanks for the post!Very helpful.

Making me think whether I should undertake upgrade. Heater works fine. Issue I have is that cold air is coming through the passenger seat. Any advice whether I can fix just that to start?

Thanks for the help.
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post #98 of 441 Old 11-27-2010, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDumbo View Post
Thanks for the post!Very helpful.

Making me think whether I should undertake upgrade. Heater works fine. Issue I have is that cold air is coming through the passenger seat. Any advice whether I can fix just that to start?

Thanks for the help.
It sounds like your fresh air box flapper isn't shutting. If you can't get the cable mechanism to close it, you could always duct tape something (cardboard, sheet metal, etc.) over the opening.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #99 of 441 Old 11-27-2010, 08:16 AM
Blue84JeepCJ7
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It sounds like your fresh air box flapper isn't shutting. If you can't get the cable mechanism to close it, you could always duct tape something (cardboard, sheet metal, etc.) over the opening.

Rich
I am having the same problem even after rebuilding my system. The two fresh air flappers just dont seal when closed. Leaks like a mother when open driving in heavy rain.

Also, the rubber around my windshield is leaking. Comes in the defrost vent under the dash, far left and far right panel. I removed the defrost vents at the windshield and can see rust inside the windshield frame. Water comes in and runs along the inside bottom of the frame. Gonna try to get the windshield rubber replaced Monday!

84 CJ-7
Chevy 350, Mild Cam. (325hp)
Summit (600 CFM) Carb.
1987 TH700R4 "K" Case
32x11.5x15 Cooper ATs
3" Body Lift
Be-Cool Radiator
Black Magic 175 Cooling Fan


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post #100 of 441 Old 11-27-2010, 08:57 AM
MikeDumbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
It sounds like your fresh air box flapper isn't shutting. If you can't get the cable mechanism to close it, you could always duct tape something (cardboard, sheet metal, etc.) over the opening.

Rich
Thanks Rich. What's odd is that the fresh air box flapper is always on shut position (regardless of heater / air setting). Just to make sure I understand, your suggestion is that I seal the air box so no air ever comes out of it?
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post #101 of 441 Old 11-27-2010, 08:58 AM
Davidnex
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In picture post 95, note that the ( loose) cable connects both fresh a flaps, the larger piece of plastic six inches from cable end, is an adjuster (turn clockwise or counter clockwise) might check it

79 CJ 5 Frame up Build
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/79-cj-5-frame-up-1092681/
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post #102 of 441 Old 11-27-2010, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDumbo View Post
Thanks Rich. What's odd is that the fresh air box flapper is always on shut position (regardless of heater / air setting). Just to make sure I understand, your suggestion is that I seal the air box so no air ever comes out of it?
I was thinking of blocking it off for at least the winter months. Once the nice weather breaks, remove the cover, if you want.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #103 of 441 Old 11-27-2010, 02:24 PM
MikeDumbo
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Ok. Just sealed it. No air coming through now. Thanks for the suggestion!

Mike


Last edited by MikeDumbo; 11-28-2010 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Add picture
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post #104 of 441 Old 11-29-2010, 06:34 AM
2Xtreme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Use a thin piece of plywood like Luan Plywood that you can cover the hole with and large enough to screw to the firewall using existing holes. Outline the existing hole with a pencil or better yet use a compass to find the center of the hole. Drill a small pilot hole, 1/8" drill bit, in the center of the hole to use as a guide when drilling the larger hole with the right size Hole Saw for the new blower motor.
Exactly what I was thinking.

Thanks
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post #105 of 441 Old 12-01-2010, 06:58 PM
JURKFASE
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just wanted to say thanks to rixcj for posting up all the photos of his heater box restore, made it alot easier for me to do mine today. I used Siemens motor #pm102 and it worked great for me.
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