CJ Heater Box Restoration...pic heavy!! - Page 30 - JeepForum.com
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post #436 of 449 Old 04-03-2019, 01:51 PM
kd7oir
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I love the detail


Shawn
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post #437 of 449 Old 04-12-2019, 05:56 PM
Wizzal05
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Man you do great work . I replaced my heater core and i wish i did all the work you did. I guess i am going to be ripping it back out now.

Chris white
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post #438 of 449 Old 08-21-2019, 08:49 AM
herrin34
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Great Job!! Just a question. Where did you get the foam?
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post #439 of 449 Old 08-21-2019, 01:04 PM
OrangeCJ-5
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Originally Posted by herrin34 View Post
Great Job!! Just a question. Where did you get the foam?
I purchased the foam from McMaster-Carr when I rebuilt mine three years ago.
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post #440 of 449 Old 08-22-2019, 03:40 AM Thread Starter
rixcj
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Great Job!! Just a question. Where did you get the foam?

Read the first sentence of the thread, Post #1. Thank you.
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #441 of 449 Old 08-22-2019, 04:56 PM
joshvt
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I used closed cell foam that is sold by the sf at the local kayaking outdoor shop. It’s typically used for kayak seat and other types of padding. It worked great- available in different thicknesses, easy to work with, smooth for a good seal, chemical resistant, glueable and cheap!
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post #442 of 449 Old 10-01-2019, 12:33 AM
prahsman
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I took the dash out of my '84 CJ7 and after re-installing it, found that I didn't label which heater cables went where. The indicator lights are (top to bottom): AIR (heat, vent), TEMP, and defrost. One cable is longer that the others and I assume that it goes to the right of the passenger vent. I'm going to assume that the defrost goes to the upper actuating lever, and the TEMP cable goes to the lowest lever. Is that correct?
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post #443 of 449 Old 10-01-2019, 11:52 AM
John Strenk
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I took the dash out of my '84 CJ7 and after re-installing it, found that I didn't label which heater cables went where. The indicator lights are (top to bottom): AIR (heat, vent), TEMP, and defrost. One cable is longer that the others and I assume that it goes to the right of the passenger vent. I'm going to assume that the defrost goes to the upper actuating lever, and the TEMP cable goes to the lowest lever. Is that correct?
I hope this picture helps.
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post #444 of 449 Old 10-02-2019, 10:30 AM
herrin34
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Thanks for all the great pictures. I know it helped me out.
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post #445 of 449 Old 10-02-2019, 02:13 PM
prahsman
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Thanks, that helped me out a lot!!
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post #446 of 449 Old 10-23-2019, 06:24 PM
CJOO7
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I took apart my heater box as my core is leaking. I ran into this issue. The rubber is torn. Does anyone make a replacement? If so what is it called.? I canít seem to find one.



Thanks


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post #447 of 449 Old 10-24-2019, 12:26 PM
cJAY904
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i have found these are very hard to find parts. fabrication might be your best bet.
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post #448 of 449 Old 01-12-2020, 06:29 PM
chughes1964
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Great thread and I'm loving having heat

Thanks everyone that has contributed. I read all 29 pages. LOL So Starting with Page one, I gotta give a thumbs up to the mcmaster dot com products. I used the foam as described and also got the Butly Mastic Strip cault tape as well. Much like the rope caulking in one of the suggestions and put a double strand around the box to seal it. Just like the guy mentioned. It was easy to work with, and not messy at all.


86225K53 - 1/4" foam 14.24
86225K57 - 1" foam ... 27.91

9408T17 Butyl Mastic Strip, 3/16" Diameter, 45' Long, 8 Pieces

Now my 82 CJ 7 is kind of a Frankenstein creature. Lot of bad mechanics over the years, and I picked this one because of the fiberglass body. I'm pretty good mechanically and really didn't want to deal with body rust. So I knew from looking at it. I am info some definite challenges. I just put that out here because while reading many of the discussion about the Blazer motor upgrade, it didn't work for some folks. For me it was tight. it just barely cleared my battery box. Not sure if that's because it's that close or I got lucky. the PO didn't know much about the history and who ever did the body conversion was a hack. But in the end, for me the Napa motor worked, had the plugs in the box and when I used a 3 1/2 whole saw to enlarge and repair the chain drilled whole, it work out just fine. Again my body is fiberglass. So I couldn't comment on an actual 82 with an original body.I will mention that because of my fiberglass body. I did ground the blower motor to a ground I"ve installed for everything inside the jeep. I seem to remember from my days in a garage 30+ years ago that jeeps did have a lot of ground problems, and fiberglass isn't going to help. I've add a lot of extra grounding straps to help remedy those issues.

Napa
# 66031158 94609 399210. The 399210 on the box matched an AutoZone number someone else had good luck with.

Loved the guy that made the urethane bushings. Definitely a bit over the top for me, but the other suggestion on the 3/8" fuel hose fit inside a pc. of 5/8" heater hose. Worked well to make the standoff's for case to firewall. I also used the 3/16" caulk to help hold them to the studs.

One of my studs was missing.. Hats off to my local Ace Hardware. I was able to get a great bolt with a huge head on it to take the place of the missing stud. I'll post a pic if I'm allowed. Since I'm new on the forum, Not sure I have that privilege yet. Aces was good for many of the small parts. I got plastic bushings and washers to help keep stuff in align, PB Blaster. the push on nuts for the cables and all sorts of great hardware. the push on nuts were 3/16" worked great.

So now I at least have basic heat in my jeep. Next step will be to fold the windshield down and see what it will take to hook up defrost. My windshield frame doesn't have vents on it. So I have to look at that next.

Again thanks for all the suggestions, and yeah I did see about 20+ requests for the part numbers.. LOL
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post #449 of 449 Old Today, 06:46 PM
GP_Pete
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Starting mine using this thread. Thanks everyone!



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