CJ Aluminum Valve Cover Help - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 21 Old 06-20-2020, 05:14 AM
keith460
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So, up until 1982, the 258 engine already had tapped holes on the drivers side and not the passenger side? I have a spare cylinder head from a 1983 engine and the five holes on either side are not tapped. Only the front and rear 1/4-20 threads are there. AMC, in there infinite wisdom, decided to allow the plastic valve cover to leak even more during 1983 and 84 model years and as a fix, utilized the long cylinder head stud bolts on the drivers side by fitting bell shaped washers on them to hold down the cover for 1985-86. Chrysler finally saw this as a problem and made a fix with the 4.0L engine that now has 15 bolts for the valve cover.


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post #17 of 21 Old 06-20-2020, 10:14 AM
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My buddy that owns the body shop that I took my CJ-7 to, so he could put it on his frame rack to check my frame straightness, told me a little story.

Years back when the CJ-7’s were still plentiful, but old enough to start having maintenance problems, many caught fire under the hood due to the oil leaking on the exhaust manifold. The fires burned the paint and caused enough damage to “total” the Jeep. He said he bought about 8 or nine of them over the years, with engine compartment fire damage and drove them for a while before selling them. It was an
easy fix, most the time and he said he got them for $300-$800 depending on the age and amount of damage.

So don’t drive your CJ it if the gasket is leaking bad enough that the oil runs down the side of the exhaust manifold.
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post #18 of 21 Old 06-20-2020, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
My buddy that owns the body shop that I took my CJ-7 to, so he could put it on his frame rack to check my frame straightness, told me a little story.

Years back when the CJ-7’s were still plentiful, but old enough to start having maintenance problems, many caught fire under the hood due to the oil leaking on the exhaust manifold....

So don’t drive your CJ it if the gasket is leaking bad enough that the oil runs down the side of the exhaust manifold.

Or, get a fire suppression system fitted under the hood.
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post #19 of 21 Old 06-24-2020, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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One more question for everyone. The guy in the video uses a Fel-Pro do I need to get that one as well or just use the cork that comes with the cover?
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post #20 of 21 Old 07-02-2020, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Moderate Amount of Panic

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
If you guys watch the video I posted, the guy swaps out the factory plastic valve cover on a 1982 258, just like the OP has.

He clearly states there are only 2 existing holes that need to be tapped. The OP should not have to do any drilling.

All he needs is a bottom tap in the correct size. He will also have to replace the 2 studded rocker bridges with regular bridges. They should be supplied with the aluminum cover.

Matt
I was taking off my plastic valve cover and I found that one bolt was broken and I think I must have broken the other. Any idea how to fix this or am I going to have to take my Jeep to the shop in shame?
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post #21 of 21 Old 07-03-2020, 04:15 AM
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In order to get at the broken piece of the bolt, the cylinder head must be removed. Are you prepared to do that? If not, take it to a competent mechanic who can.
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