Choke Not Working - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
Bwick84
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Choke Not Working

I have a 1983 CJ5 with the 258. Everything on it is stock. I can't get my choke to work on my BBD which makes it hard to start every morning. The choke is always fully open.

What are the steps I need to take to get this to work? I have not really worked on carburetors in the past so please be patient with me because I am learning as I go.

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post #2 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 11:26 AM
foggybottombob
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There is an electrical blade type connection on the inside of the choke. I think you need a wire connected to that which is 12V when the ignition is on. This wire needs to be disconnected from 12V when the key is off. At least that is how my 84 CJ7 choke works.
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post #3 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
Bwick84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
There is an electrical blade type connection on the inside of the choke. I think you need a wire connected to that which is 12V when the ignition is on. This wire needs to be disconnected from 12V when the key is off. At least that is how my 84 CJ7 choke works.
I'm pretty sure you have an electric choke in the 84, while the 83 uses a vacuum system but someone can correct me if I'm wrong.
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post #4 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 01:18 PM
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwick84 View Post
I can't get my choke to work on my BBD which makes it hard to start every morning.
Sorry I can not help you with your choke but, I do not even have mine hooked up. I have never had it hooked up. Even the few times during the winter, when what I call cold (30 degrees), I have not needed it. You might look elsewhere for the hard starting problem.
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post #5 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 01:23 PM
Mike Romain
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If it is an electric one, make sure it has 12 volts coming to it with the engine running, not just the key in run, the engine must have oil pressure to turn on the choke.

I have rebuilt a lot of those carbs and find the pivot pin that goes from the choke case to the linkage seizes up inside it's hole. This may be due to electrolysis because it is a greenish buildup. To test for this, on an off engine hold the gas linkage open and see if you can physically move the choke plate. If it binds look down at the side where the linkage goes for the part I am talking about.

A kit for that carb runs less than $20.00 usually and does them wonders.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #6 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 01:54 PM
foggybottombob
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I think you mean the engine has to be running to turn the choke off. On mine, the choke is on when it is cold and as the engine warms up, the choke slowly opens (turning off).
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post #7 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 02:06 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
I think you mean the engine has to be running to turn the choke off. On mine, the choke is on when it is cold and as the engine warms up, the choke slowly opens (turning off).
LOL!

Ah yup something like that. My mind was thinking when the choke is 'turned on', it opens.

If it is already open, it is usually seized.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #8 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
Bwick84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
Sorry I can not help you with your choke but, I do not even have mine hooked up. I have never had it hooked up. Even the few times during the winter, when what I call cold (30 degrees), I have not needed it. You might look elsewhere for the hard starting problem.
It's not necessarily hard to start, but I have to pump the gas like 10+ times to get it to start. However, when I leave for work (after sitting ten hours) it will start right up with one pump, but it's usually 90+ degrees out.

I know the choke is not working. I've watched the carb as the gas was pressed when it was cold and the choke stayed in the wide open position.

It is fine for right now but we can get below zero in the winter time here and I'm pretty sure I will need it then.
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post #9 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
Bwick84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
If it is an electric one, make sure it has 12 volts coming to it with the engine running, not just the key in run, the engine must have oil pressure to turn on the choke.

I have rebuilt a lot of those carbs and find the pivot pin that goes from the choke case to the linkage seizes up inside it's hole. This may be due to electrolysis because it is a greenish buildup. To test for this, on an off engine hold the gas linkage open and see if you can physically move the choke plate. If it binds look down at the side where the linkage goes for the part I am talking about.

A kit for that carb runs less than $20.00 usually and does them wonders.
Like I said, I'm pretty sure it is not an electric choke, but how do I make sure? I can easily press the choke plate closed so I don't think anything is seized.

Are the rebuild kits hard to do? Like I said before, I don't really know much about carbs, but I can usually follow instructions pretty well.
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post #10 of 31 Old 08-01-2008, 03:42 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwick84 View Post
Like I said, I'm pretty sure it is not an electric choke, but how do I make sure? I can easily press the choke plate closed so I don't think anything is seized.

Are the rebuild kits hard to do? Like I said before, I don't really know much about carbs, but I can usually follow instructions pretty well.
If you can easily push it closed, then you need to open up the cover on the choke and see what is happening inside there. It might just be unhooked which is easy to happen.

The choke is it's own animal, it doesn't come with a rebuild kit, but while taking it all apart to do the kit, the choke is then easy to clean if seized.

The directions with the carb kit are pretty good, just don't take apart anything you don't have to to get it clean so you don't have to mess with some internal adjustments.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #11 of 31 Old 08-02-2008, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
Bwick84
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So how do you tell if it is unhooked? What cover do I open? Thanks in advance.
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post #12 of 31 Old 08-02-2008, 03:29 PM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by Bwick84 View Post
So how do you tell if it is unhooked? What cover do I open? Thanks in advance.
I wish I knew what kind of choke you had on there instead of the electric one. The electric one has a black cover with an electric plug in the center of it that sits low on the valve cover side of the carb.

Basically just follow your linkage until you get to something with a cover on it and open that to see why the linkage isn't holding the choke plate closed. I even think the hot air type of choke has that cover on the valve cover side of the carb.

Do you have a digital camera? A photo would help.

A manual choke kit runs about $25.00 and does wonders for them....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #13 of 31 Old 08-02-2008, 03:32 PM
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwick84 View Post
It's not necessarily hard to start, but I have to pump the gas like 10+ times to get it to start. However, when I leave for work (after sitting ten hours) it will start right up with one pump, but it's usually 90+ degrees out.

I know the choke is not working. I've watched the carb as the gas was pressed when it was cold and the choke stayed in the wide open position.

It is fine for right now but we can get below zero in the winter time here and I'm pretty sure I will need it then.
Ah yes, winter time. Not the funnest Jeep wrenching time. If I have not started my Jeep in awhile, I also have to repeatedly pump the pedal while cranking. Because the fuel in the carb evaporates. I have read here that if the fuel filter is not timed correctly, with the fuel filter's return line at 12 o'clock, fuel in the carb will evaporate...or something like that. Someone more expert can add info.
Good luck.
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post #14 of 31 Old 08-02-2008, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
Bwick84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
I wish I knew what kind of choke you had on there instead of the electric one. The electric one has a black cover with an electric plug in the center of it that sits low on the valve cover side of the carb.

Basically just follow your linkage until you get to something with a cover on it and open that to see why the linkage isn't holding the choke plate closed. I even think the hot air type of choke has that cover on the valve cover side of the carb.

Do you have a digital camera? A photo would help.

A manual choke kit runs about $25.00 and does wonders for them....

Well I took some pictures of my carb. Please let me know if you want any other specific pictures. I'm not exactly sure of what you're looking for.









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post #15 of 31 Old 08-02-2008, 07:57 PM
mcmud
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Your electric choke is visible on the 19886 pic. w/ the wire connector vertical from the round, black assembly cover. If you loosen the three screws around the cover you could then rotate the cover clockwise until the choke plate closes to the 1/4" open position. The throttle linkage would then prevent full closing without a full throttle opening to release the choke plate to the full closed position. Check for voltage at the connector with the engine running. The voltage will heat the bi metal spring inside to open the plate. If there is no voltage reset the choke to the open position until Mike can guide you through the adjustments necessary. Re tighten the screws.
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