Charity thread lol - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
phylodog
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Charity thread lol

So I'm starting with a previously modified CJ5 and would like to learn all that I can as I formulate a plan for it. It goes tomorrow for a transmission swap then I'll be attacking the brakes and steering. At that point I'll have more time (my girls are anxious to get it on the road) to study, research and learn about the different systems and how to upgrade or replace as needed.

For now, I'm just hoping some of the resident experts wouldn't mind taking a pic at a few pics and providing whatever info might be useful. It's a 1977 CJ5 with the 304 / 3 speed. Aside from that I don't have a clue about it.

As an example: It is sitting in a spring over axle setup but I don't know if the springs are stock? I like the stance and hope to keep it sitting just like it is but it definitely needs new springs and shocks.

On to the pics, any observations are greatly appreciated. It appears to me that someone has welded some angle iron underneath each side of the front of the frame but I have no idea what purpose it serves(d) and if I can remove it. Thanks in advance fellas.





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post #2 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 10:01 AM
John Strenk
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1/2 of a Snow plow mount.

plow-lower-assembly.jpg

Normally you can just unbolt them from the frame.
Don't know why they were cut off like that.

Looks like they were modified to clear the lift a little bit.
But they would bang into the axle if left like that.

You need to remove them.


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post #3 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 10:03 AM
Fourtrail
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Yes, those springs look like they are stock. If you want to keep a spring over, I would suggest to swap out to a stock set of YJ springs and the new/conversion mount on the front of the front spring to accept the wider spring. As for the angle iron, it looks like it had snow plow mounted to the front at some time, all of that mess can be cut out.


A major part that needs changed is your steering in the front, that is a mess and will not handle well on the road. You need to look into going to a 'high steer' setup to get the draglink back flat and above the spring.


http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/p...knucklearm-kit


This kit and I would go to the double hole passenger side arm and have them drilled for tapered tierod ends.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
phylodog
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Thank you, I really appreciate the information.
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
phylodog
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I’m strongly considering going back to a spring under setup. Based on my limited knowledge it seems like that would be the best way to go for me. This isn’t going to be a hardcore crawler and probably won’t see much off road use. It’s just for the family to run errands or cruise around when the weather permits. I’d like to get it looking nice and functioning as well as I can.
keith460 and STJP like this.
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 11:56 AM
John Strenk
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You will also want to re-reout the exhaust to the side, just behind the rear tire.

The way it's exiting now will blow all the exhaust back into the jeep, even with the top off.


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post #7 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 12:34 PM
Fourtrail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phylodog View Post
Iím strongly considering going back to a spring under setup. Based on my limited knowledge it seems like that would be the best way to go for me. This isnít going to be a hardcore crawler and probably wonít see much off road use. Itís just for the family to run errands or cruise around when the weather permits. Iíd like to get it looking nice and functioning as well as I can.

Then you should start looking for another set of CJ stock axles, the mounts have been torched off of those axles so going back to spring under will be about the same amount of work as correcting the spring over.

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post #8 of 11 Old 07-27-2021, 12:42 PM
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Agree with everyone, get rid of all the plow bracket. And all the rest of that stuff...I had that truss/skid plate on my 30 front axle years ago and twisted it to hell at Hot Springs AR.
Do the tie rod and drag link flip to the top of the knuckles. I would add a steering box brace and look over the frame at the steering box and make sure it is not cracked or weld if it is.
Go back spring under but depending on what tire size you have or want, you want some lift so you get close to where you are. I liked my 2.5" springs with 1/2" lift shackle that are a solid H pattern instead of the stock pieceof metal each side of the spring.

32x11.50 on 10" wheels work good with that set up on a CJ5. Fill it up and widen the stance but keep the center of gravity low. You only have 83.4" wheelbase. With a v8. Check what gears you have in the pumpkins and see if you have a trac lock rear.
Add one piece axles to the model 20 rearend. And make sure the drive shaft ujoints are good as they tend to wear fast in the v8 CJ5s.

When I was 6 years old my cousin bought a 1975 CJ5 Renegade Levi edition v8, 3spd.... manual brakes and steering. in 1976 ...learned to drive it at 9 and drove it all over from 14 until I was 21 and bought my first Jeep 84 CJ7 (still have it).

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post #9 of 11 Old 07-28-2021, 12:45 AM
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It is hard to know where to start to undo all of the PO stuff. I see brake hoses that are dangerously short, drag links that are nowhere near parallel, dual shocks, misrouted exhaust. just about everything on there needs to come off and be reassembled with an eye for detail.

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-28-2021, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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I hadn't seen a dual shock setup on a Jeep before. I take it they're problematic and/or unnecessary?

I dropped it off with the mechanic this morning for the tranny swap. Crossing my fingers that it goes well and works properly.
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-31-2021, 12:47 PM
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Na, dual shocks are ok, they are not stock and there is no real reason for them. They just make the ride stiffer. That spring over lift has some serious "Redneckery" going on. A properly done SOA will give you 5-6 inches of lift and some pretty amazing flex and is not cheap. A "Rednecked" SOA can get you killed. Aside from the poor steering and potential brake line separation from being too short, you are depending on the POs welding of those spring perches. The PO that put that lift together did not make good choices. If you want to keep the SOA there are plenty of threads on how to make it safe but I would have a competent fab shop look over the spring perch welds. Otherwise have said competent fab shop help you move those springs back under, maybe get some BDS, RE, or even YJ 2.5 in lift springs and go with 31-32 in tires for cruzing the town, logging trails or farm.

Just my 2 cents, for what that is worth.


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