Brake bleed question -
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  • 1 Post By oldschool74cj5
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-02-2020, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Brake bleed question

Completely new brake system (except proportioning valve) and need to add fluid and bleed the brakes. I have read some posts on this and all of them mention having to open the proportioning valve. However, none seem to mention how this is done. Looking at the end of mine there is what looks to be a little pin in there but how does one open the valve? The fact that no one mentions how this is done makes me think it is obvious but I canít seem to work out how to open it.

Thanks in advance for your time.

1984 CJ7 btw.

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post #2 of 6 Old 06-02-2020, 09:37 PM
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there are two types of proportion valves used. if you look in the FSM they will tell you how to control the valve for bleeding. did you bench bleed the master? one was that works well at least for me is i gravity bleed the most. once the pedal feels pretty good then you can bleed by pressure. normally you wont have a problem with the proportioning valve.

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post #3 of 6 Old 06-03-2020, 02:29 AM
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There is a tool that allows you to keep the combination valve open during the brake bleeding process. Essentially it keeps the small pin out to allow fluid to flow freely. The tool slides over the pins head and stops it from moving during the brake bleeding process. You can also use a plastic screw in plug at the top of the valve that does the same thing but you would need to remove the brake switch to do so. Both tools center the valve.
Gravity bleeding will be easier, what I do, and it is a one man job and just as effective. No tool needed for the proportioning valve.

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post #4 of 6 Old 06-03-2020, 02:32 AM
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There are several types, without a picture.......

There are also 3 methods of bench bleeding that I know of, you must get the air out first from the master before you connect the lines. You an use plugs in the outlets, tubes to circulate back into the reservoir or tubes and a big syringe to push fluid back and forth.

If you then take it easy, bleed front and back equally, the valve will not trip. So you could gravity bleed to fill the lines, then finish off each. A tip is not to push the pedal down all the way on a used master cylinder, you can tear an old seal that way.
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-22-2020, 06:31 PM
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i installed a new master cylinder today, bench bled it before installation. I bled all the wheel cylinders/calipers, but didn't think about the proportioning valve. My pedal still feels a little spongy and on my "road test" the right rear would lock up on heavy breaking. Now I'm here to ask the experts! What should be my next plan of attack.

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post #6 of 6 Old 06-22-2020, 08:16 PM
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you might have some air still in the lines. it doesnt take much to create a little bit of spongy feel. also have you adjusted the shoes on the drum brakes. you want to have them both to have just a little bit of drag feeling. but you want them both to be the same. drums adjustment can affect your pedal height also. that can cause a pull or make one grab a little before the other wheel.

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