body mount repairs under tub - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
DeadPhish
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body mount repairs under tub

I got my tub off the frame and need to replace the areas where the tub connects to the body mount and frame. did anyone cuts these out and replace them with some scrap steel? any pics or ideas would be great

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post #2 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
DeadPhish
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I am going with a 2 inch body lift and wanted to weld and reinforce this area
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post #3 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 03:24 PM
Coiz
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How about something like this?

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post #4 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
DeadPhish
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looks good but I had a problem with the metal on the tub itself. it is torn and pushed thru allowing the body mount to push up thru the existing hole. give the jeep a bit of "gansta lean"
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post #5 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 04:21 PM
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I would think you would fix it the same way. Cut out the bad spots and weld in some fresh metal. That "gangsta lean" may have also been a factory installed option.

Search CJ lean, body lean, suspension lean, or any combination and you will see what I mean. Pretty common problem straight from the factory.

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post #6 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 04:30 PM
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Cut, Grind, Patch, Weld

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post #7 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 04:54 PM
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Coiz,
Thanks for the pics in post 3. Gonna help me in the next few weeks. PM comin at ya. Will be dealing with those same issues, plus some phishmaster (tub) issues as well. Let me know what you come up with phish.



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post #8 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 05:47 PM
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Hey Patter. I got your PM and responded. Take a closer look at that thread and you will see that is not my work. That was just a quick reference to a recent thread I saw that I thought would help him out. You might want to send a PM to the author of that linked thread. Good luck in your search.

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post #9 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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yea ive read about the factory lean, with the mounts busted up you could really see the lean. i going with some thicker gauge steel and just going to scab some pieces to the existing metal are there any particular angles other than flat that i need to keep in mind?
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 08:00 PM
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I did a piece of 1" x 3" box channel and cut sections to fix mine. I hole sawed the top and welded a nut inside of the channel sections, bolted it and welded the nut and then welded it all in. Works great. I should have some pics somewhere like this at the home pc. I should have just found a tub, but had the steel and time. You can see the sections.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

For the rear mount, I tried something new and went center only. No issues yet.
[IMG][/IMG]

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-25-2009, 11:18 PM
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When replacing a tub, the PO had a body mount which crushed some of the mounts. I had little to no sucess pulling the damage out, so I plated it to the proper thickness to match the original. Using some scrape metal ,a few some tach welds, and a little undercoating did the trick.


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post #12 of 15 Old 03-26-2009, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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none of my mounts had the nut still welded in does that matter when I add the new pieces
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post #13 of 15 Old 03-26-2009, 11:03 AM
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The nuts are captured but not securely welded. They should be able to float around a little bit to help all of the mounts to line up but they should not be able to spin freely in their seat.

Mike

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post #14 of 15 Old 03-26-2009, 12:27 PM
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I apologize, and not that I am trying to hijack the post, but I am in the process of doing the same thing. I don't have the tub off the frame, but the front nut just fore of the radiator released from its weld and the bolt is spinning when I try to screw it out. I really don't want to disconnect and remove my radiator, does anyone have any ideas how I can get that bolt out?
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post #15 of 15 Old 03-26-2009, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiobuckeye View Post
I apologize, and not that I am trying to hijack the post, but I am in the process of doing the same thing. I don't have the tub off the frame, but the front nut just fore of the radiator released from its weld and the bolt is spinning when I try to screw it out. I really don't want to disconnect and remove my radiator, does anyone have any ideas how I can get that bolt out?
Pry up the front plate just in front of the grill/ radiator and use an adjustable on the nut.

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