Bmann412's AMC 304 Rebuild - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 259 Old 03-18-2020, 07:06 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Originally Posted by Bmann412 View Post
Ok found the information I think that is needed. unfortunately I am not quite sure what I am looking at what i should be looking for.

Melling VS-970

Closed Height: 1.800 IN
Closed Pressure: 70 PSI
Coil Bind Height: 1.225 IN
Grade Type: Regular
Inside Diameter: 0.955 IN
Open Height: 1.400 IN
Open Pressure: 208 PSI
Outside Diameter: 1.355 IN
Spring Type: Single Spring

Recommend Spring Kit From Lunati
spring kit # 73126K1

These springs are rated as 103lbs at the seat installed at 1.800"
open pressre is 303 lbs @ 1.250
coil bind is @ 1.100
spring rate is 364
1.500" od
1.086" id

Now we're getting somewhere. As I suspected, your machinist put stock springs in to match the stock cam. They have considerably lighter open and closed pressures than the recommended spring for the Lunati cam.

Also note, the Lunati springs have the wrong OD for an AMC V8. They really need to get their ***** together on this. You need a spring with a 1.35" OD (outside diameter). If you buy the Lunati cam, take my advice and get the Comp Cams #910 springs.

Matt



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post #47 of 259 Old 03-18-2020, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
Bmann412
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Now we're getting somewhere. As I suspected, your machinist put stock springs in to match the stock cam. They have considerably lighter open and closed pressures than the recommended spring for the Lunati cam.



Also note, the Lunati springs have the wrong OD for an AMC V8. They really need to get their ***** together on this. You need a spring with a 1.35" OD (outside diameter). If you buy the Lunati cam, take my advice and get the Comp Cams #910 springs.



Matt


Thanks! that was the information I was looking for. Since the heads were rebuilt is safe to assume I only have to swap the springs themselves and nothing else. Any experience with the cams from comp?

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
2013 JK
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post #48 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
Bmann412
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After much debate I think I have decided to stick with the factory style cam. For what I am planning to do with this Jeep more power or a loud exhaust is not really necessary. It will just be a cruiser now my TJ will probably end up with a cam whenever I rebuild its motor. Now I am putting together a list of parts I still need to order. so far in my cart consists of the edlebrock performer intake, ARP head bolts, looking for a set of push rods and hopefully that's it. My Dipstick tube came in from Bull-Tear and the totally stainless engine kit is on order but is currently out of stock.

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
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post #49 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 09:30 AM
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Probably a wise move.

I would suggest using a pushrod length measuring tool, so you get them right the first time. Ask me how ai know.

Matt


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post #50 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
Bmann412
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Probably a wise move.



I would suggest using a pushrod length measuring tool, so you get them right the first time. Ask me how ai know.



Matt


Noted. Any reason to not reuse stock rockers? They seem to be in good shape.

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post #51 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 10:12 AM
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Last year i did a 304 rebuild (after an unsuccesfull rebuild by a PO - too much cam and too much carb, crappy idle, fouled plugs after a while.....)
i used Melling MT1 camshaft together with Melling VS280 valve springs. Stock rockers, Melling MPR-34-B pushrods. Edelbrock performer intake with an Edelbrock 1901 AVS2 Carb and DUI distributor.
I replaced the float valve by Edlebrock 1465 float valve and seat for offroad use.

Turned out nicely. Has smooth idle, revs pretty fine, plenty of power....
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current 2x XJ, 2x JK-U, SJ, M38A1, WJ
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post #52 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
Bmann412
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Originally Posted by skjeep View Post
Last year i did a 304 rebuild (after an unsuccesfull rebuild by a PO - too much cam and too much carb, crappy idle, fouled plugs after a while.....)
i used Melling MT1 camshaft together with Melling VS280 valve springs. Stock rockers, Melling MPR-34-B pushrods. Edelbrock performer intake with an Edelbrock 1901 AVS2 Carb and DUI distributor.
I replaced the float valve by Edlebrock 1465 float valve and seat for offroad use.

Turned out nicely. Has smooth idle, revs pretty fine, plenty of power....
Engine looks great! do you think the DUI Distributor is worth upgrading to over stock?

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
2013 JK
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post #53 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 11:24 AM
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Engine looks great! do you think the DUI Distributor is worth upgrading to over stock?

Tough question. I think stock dizzy is not that bad, can be upgraded to bigger Ford style rotor and cap and even TFI but the one it had was pretty worn out. Lots of shaft play etc.. I also liked the idea of getting rid of the 3 component ignition system, much cleaner wire harness getting beter cables, having more spark energy.... And the best is that i allready had it. So i think it was worth it.
Running with stock plain copper champion plugs gapped at 0,05" , initial timing set to 9-10 BTDC with vacuum disconnected.
DUI states to have it at 12BTDC but with that i had some light pinging under heavy load.
For a stock distributor my manual says 5-7 with automatic. But that was back in the days of low octane fuels, so even with stock dist. id run it w. 10

current 2x XJ, 2x JK-U, SJ, M38A1, WJ
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post #54 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 11:36 AM
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I just rebuilt a 360 for my CJ5 last year. I am running a Comp Cams 268H. It sounds like a cup car at idle, but clears up as soon as you touch the gas. Very easy to drive. I am also using a DUI HEI distributor. Advantage is easy installation, built in matched coil, and it looks badass. If you are putting in a new distributor, install a new matching gear at the same time for longevity. Just make sure that you don't buy a clone of the distributor. The Chinese make distributors that look the same and cost almost nothing. They will strand you. I had to talk my buddy into upgrading to the real thing and no problems since. Check prices at BJ's Offroad in Washington State. They are primarily a FSJ supplier, but they have plenty of engine related stuff that the CJ's use. I am now building a 401 with similar specs.
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post #55 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skjeep View Post
Tough question. I think stock dizzy is not that bad, can be upgraded to bigger Ford style rotor and cap and even TFI but the one it had was pretty worn out. Lots of shaft play etc.. I also liked the idea of getting rid of the 3 component ignition system, much cleaner wire harness getting beter cables, having more spark energy.... And the best is that i allready had it. So i think it was worth it.
Running with stock plain copper champion plugs gapped at 0,05" , initial timing set to 9-10 BTDC with vacuum disconnected.
DUI states to have it at 12BTDC but with that i had some light pinging under heavy load.
For a stock distributor my manual says 5-7 with automatic. But that was back in the days of low octane fuels, so even with stock dist. id run it w. 10


I guess I have more to research! Thanks I do like the idea of cleaning up the wiring under the hood. Seems like there is a good bit of unnecessary wires.

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
2013 JK
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post #56 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Is it necessary to degree a stock cam or just put cylinder one at top dead center and line up the dots on the cam gear and balancer?

1998 TJ 5.9l
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post #57 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 03:31 PM
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I lined up the dots. Keeping that in mind, if they are not perfectly lined up, they are not correct. I first noticed that the dots were very close but not perfect. I re-checked and found that I was not correct. If I was at your point in the process, I would definitely add some cam. It will really wake up your engine. Your choice, but I can't leave anything bone stock. Even on a restoration, no one can see inside your engine, so you might as well build something fun.
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post #58 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 04:17 PM
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... I would definitely add some cam. It will really wake up your engine. Your choice, but I can't leave anything bone stock.

True. But too much cam is also bad. that is why i have used the one described above. IIRC it is the same grind as Edelbrock cam.
exhaust at 289 deg, intake at 280 degrees, 0,449" intake valve lift 0,473" exhaust valve lift, intake duration at 0,05" valve lift 204, exhaust 214
has lots of low rpm torque and good idle. And with the old 3spd auto tranny it drives great

current 2x XJ, 2x JK-U, SJ, M38A1, WJ
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post #59 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Part of the reason I am leaning towards what I have is I wouldnt have to buy new valve springs and buy a tool to remove them or try to rent one. Seems like there is a lot more to switching to a larger cam then meets the eye. First switch the cam out next is new valve spring and Who would want solid lifters so new hydraulic lifters and the list goes on and on. I would love to swap in a cam but if I do I dont want half do it. The cam you describe sounds like something I would be interested in but only if I wouldnt have to change out the valve springs. The Jeep is just going to be a cruiser and go to car shows so power isnt a huge concern. Thats why I think stock would be fine.

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
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post #60 of 259 Old 03-19-2020, 05:24 PM
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If you want to run a better cam but retain your stock springs, look into a Comp High Energy cam.
https://www.compcams.com/high-energy...c-290-401.html

Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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