Bmann412's 1978 CJ7 Renegade Restoration - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 130 Old 09-17-2019, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
Bmann412
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Engine tear down has begun.... so far I have only snapped two bolts. One in the water pump housing and the other is in the thermostat housing. I will take that as a win considering how rusty this engine is. This we be my first ever full engine rebuild/freshen up. So I will apologize for all the beginner questions I am sure I will be asking.

So here is what we are starting with:


Removing a majority of the front accessories:


Removing valve covers and intake manifold. Which was by far the hardest part. Seemed like every bolt on the intake was a different size and a ratchet was quite difficult to get fit properly.



1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
2013 JK
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post #92 of 130 Old 09-17-2019, 08:59 PM
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Doesn't look bad at all, Bmann. Your pan and valley are a heck of a lot more crud free than mine were. Great start!

Hoov
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82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
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post #93 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 07:24 AM
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post #94 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
Bmann412
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Got the heads pulled off the motor with very little trouble. All the cylinders walls seem to be in pretty good shape. The cross hatching can be seen on all of them. There was no apparent damage I could see on any of the piston faces.Ideally if I can get away with a light hone and retain the stock pistons I will be a happy camper. The progress stopped around here for lack of a puller for the harmonic balancer and the main problem. The distributor seems to be stuck in the block. I removed the one bolt holding the retaining lock but can not get the distributor to budge.right now it is soaking in penetrating oil. Is there something I am missing? I am worried i might break it if I use vice grips or a hammer to try and break it loose.

1998 TJ 5.9l
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post #95 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 08:34 PM
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I wouldn't use anything to force it. Does the distributor rotate at all? Should be able to twist it both clockwise and counter CW-

Hoov

82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
83 CJ8 Scrambler, 360, T176, EFI, in progress
84 CJ7 Renegade, 258, T5, Weber 38, Cliffordized, Borla headers
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post #96 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I wouldn't use anything to force it. Does the distributor rotate at all? Should be able to twist it both clockwise and counter CW-



Hoov


The distributor does not twist either way. Thatís way I am afraid to use any force since I would likely break it.

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
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post #97 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 09:05 PM
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Your balance is still attached- will the entire assembly rotate (crank and pistons) when using a wrench on the crank bolt, and if so, you've verified that the rotor also spins? If it does, then I'm inclined to think that the distributor housing is binding with the timing cover. The penetrating oil may help there, but based on my experience, you should be able to break it loose with out damaging anything. Does the aluminum appear corroded, or anything similar, where the distributor goes through the timing cover?

Hoov

82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
83 CJ8 Scrambler, 360, T176, EFI, in progress
84 CJ7 Renegade, 258, T5, Weber 38, Cliffordized, Borla headers
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post #98 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover7 View Post
Your balance is still attached- will the entire assembly rotate (crank and pistons) when using a wrench on the crank bolt, and if so, you've verified that the rotor also spins? If it does, then I'm inclined to think that the distributor housing is binding with the timing cover. The penetrating oil may help there, but based on my experience, you should be able to break it loose with out damaging anything. Does the aluminum appear corroded, or anything similar, where the distributor goes through the timing cover?



Hoov


I have rotated the motor a couple times yesterday and had no issues. I will have to check tomorrow if the rotor spins. It was hard to tell if it was corroded based on the amount of grease and dirt. How would you recommend breaking it free. Assuming everything else checks out? Maybe a little heat?

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
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post #99 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 09:22 PM
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I'd feel more confident with some others chiming in here. Given that it's aluminum, I'd be cautious applying high heat. If it isn't corroded, I'd think it would break free (spin) with minimal effort- perhaps rapping a few times with a hammer (not pounding) and trying to twist it. Once it twists, it should pull upward without difficulty-


Hoov

82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
83 CJ8 Scrambler, 360, T176, EFI, in progress
84 CJ7 Renegade, 258, T5, Weber 38, Cliffordized, Borla headers
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post #100 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover7 View Post
I'd feel more confident with some others chiming in here. Given that it's aluminum, I'd be cautious applying high heat. If it isn't corroded, I'd think it would break free (spin) with minimal effort- perhaps rapping a few times with a hammer (not pounding) and trying to twist it. Once it twists, it should pull upward without difficulty-





Hoov


Thanks Hoov! I will wait to hear from some others before I make any decisions.I guess you are right heat might not be the best choice considering it is aluminum. Hopefully between the penetrating oil and a couple taps of rubber mallet it will come loose.
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post #101 of 130 Old 09-18-2019, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmann412 View Post
Your tire carrier came out great! Did you put some rubber in between the mount and body to prevent damage to the paint?
I planned on it, but I didn't have any rubber available at the time, and I am eventually going to repaint this jeep. I will putt some rubber bushings between th e plate and the body as soon as I acquire some from work.
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post #102 of 130 Old 09-19-2019, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Made good progress tonight and pretty happy with what I am finding. I managed to get the distributor out by giving it a few taps with a rubber mallet where the vacuum advance was. After a few taps back and forth I was able to wiggle the distributor out by hand.



With that out of the way I removed the timing chain cover. The timing chain has a bit of play in it but no noticeable wear to the gears. I will have to inspect them closer but most likely I will replace the whole set any ways.



Now that the timing set was removed I pulled the cam shaft out. To me the cam doesnít appear to have any major wear. I was thinking about replacing it with a mild cam to get a little more power out of the engine.



With all major parts removed from the top portion of the motor. It was time to rotate and work on the bottom. Removing the oil pan was rather uneventful. However the pan might need replaced. Thereís a little more rust on the portion that mates to the block then I am comfortable with. Now with the pan removed my focus turned to removing the pistons. I was pleased to see that there was virtually no wear to the crank or the bearing on the connecting rods.




I left the crank shaft in for now just to prevent damage until I have time to go the machine shop. There are a couple things that I will need to address before I take the engine in. I am pretty sure I broke the oil dip stick tube when attempting to remove it. Any advice for removing the remaining portion of the tube? Lastly I was having difficulty removing the oil pick up any tips would be appreciated.

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post #103 of 130 Old 09-19-2019, 09:16 PM
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Good job getting the distributor removed- glad it came off. And total bummer about the oil tube. Same thing happened when I removed mine- flexed it a bit too far and 'snap'. To remove the remainder of the tube from the block, I inverted the block on the engine stand, placed a small bolt in the bottom of the tube (either 1/4 or 5/16 x 1) and tapped it out with a hammer. I recall it taking more force than I felt comfortable with just to get it to move. I figured since it was already broken, couldn't hurt anything else - you only have to get it to move an inch or so, then it will slide out freely.

To remove the oil pick-up tube, I used a medium monkey wrench to grab the tube just above the point where it meets the block, and backed it out counter clock-wise. It'll mar the outside of the tube a little where the jaws grip it, but it eased out without difficulty. In hind sight, using a piece of rubber inner tube or similar to cushion the jaws might have protected it better, but the damage was cosmetic and smoothed out with a wire wheel.

From the images, your bearing surfaces, cylinder bores and cam appear in good shape! Good deal. However, the timing gear (set) looks aftermarket. I may have missed it in your thread, but has this motor been previously rebuilt? Or perhaps just had the timing set replaced... Here's what mine looked like-

img_3997.jpg

Also, if there was a small plastic button on your oil pick up, make sure it doesn't get lost. It keeps the proper clearance between the pick-up and the oil pan-

Glad you are making progress!

Hoov

82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
83 CJ8 Scrambler, 360, T176, EFI, in progress
84 CJ7 Renegade, 258, T5, Weber 38, Cliffordized, Borla headers
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post #104 of 130 Old 09-19-2019, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover7 View Post
Good job getting the distributor removed- glad it came off. And total bummer about the oil tube. Same thing happened when I removed mine- flexed it a bit too far and 'snap'. To remove the remainder of the tube from the block, I inverted the block on the engine stand, placed a small bolt in the bottom of the tube (either 1/4 or 5/16 x 1) and tapped it out with a hammer. I recall it taking more force than I felt comfortable with just to get it to move. I figured since it was already broken, couldn't hurt anything else - you only have to get it to move an inch or so, then it will slide out freely.



To remove the oil pick-up tube, I used a medium monkey wrench to grab the tube just above the point where it meets the block, and backed it out counter clock-wise. It'll mar the outside of the tube a little where the jaws grip it, but it eased out without difficulty. In hind sight, using a piece of rubber inner tube or similar to cushion the jaws might have protected it better, but the damage was cosmetic and smoothed out with a wire wheel.



From the images, your bearing surfaces, cylinder bores and cam appear in good shape! Good deal. However, the timing gear (set) looks aftermarket. I may have missed it in your thread, but has this motor been previously rebuilt? Here's what mine looked like-



Attachment 3859511



Also, if there was a small plastic button on your oil pick up, make sure it doesn't get lost. It keeps the proper clearance between the pick-up and the oil pan-



Glad you are making progress!



Hoov


I will have to give the bolt trick a try tomorrow after work. I was a hesitant to put a pipe wrench on the oil tube for fear of damaging it. I like your idea of using a piece of rubber to cushion it. I will also have to find the plastic piece i heard it fall when I rotated the motor. I am hope it is still on the floor beneath the engine.

To my knowledge the motor was not rebuilt. But who knows what the previous owners did. Any other ways to determine if it had be rebuilt in the past. The piston were all still the originals. I agree everything seems very clean to have not been rebuilt in the past.

1998 TJ 5.9l
1978 CJ7 Renegade
2013 JK
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post #105 of 130 Old 09-20-2019, 08:15 AM
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Bmann when you put the distributor back for good coat it with some copper based anti-seize where the aluminum touches the metal. The two materials coming in contact cause corrosion and this helps. Makes it easier to change/set the timing sometime later if you need to.


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