Best CJ Fuel Level Sending Unit . . . - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
myrtle77
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Best CJ Fuel Level Sending Unit . . .

Guys, I searched the board for an answer to this, as well as google, but have had no luck.

I'm looking at what is probably the fourth sending unit failure. Maybe it's just my luck, but I'd really like to get a quality sending unit, if one exists, instead of replacing this Omix-Ada and/or Crown stuff every two or three years.

I have the Speedhut CJ cluster and the gauge is programmable, so resistance isn't an issue. I ordered a 20 gallon sending unit for a 21 gallon poly tank, but am dreading dropping the tank again for a temporary fix. The box has 'Made in Taiwan' on the sticker.

Any of you guys found a better, more reliable way to permanently repair this problem? Any help is much appreciated.

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post #2 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 03:39 PM
CSP
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MTS Company

http://www.mtscompany.com/jeep.htm

You'll have to call them for info or to order.
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post #3 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 03:49 PM
caseypotts
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I'm a little confused as to the type of sender you are using with the SpeedHut. Their system comes with their own sender (it is modified from what appears to be an OMIX/Crown sender. Are you saying that you take a new OMIX/Crown and have to modify it yourself every couple of years?

I don't have a better sender but I can tell you I put in a Genright fuel access panel for about $145. It has payed for itself many times over. I can get to my pump and sender within 10 minutes, no dropping the tank, no getting on the ground, no playing with wires. It is all right there.

**** SORRY**** never considered that you don't have fuel injection. Just consider they Genright access panel!
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post #4 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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I'll give them a shout . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
MTS Company

http://www.mtscompany.com/jeep.htm

You'll have to call them for info or to order.
Thanks, CSP! I actually found these guys during my search but shied away from them because of the primitive web site.
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post #5 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 03:51 PM
redfin188t
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I second recommendation for getting a sending unit from MTS. However it comes with a plastic float; I went to CJ Pony Parts and ordered the brass float p/n FSUF to replace the plastic float. The plastic floats will crack over time and fill with gas.
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post #6 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Still Old School . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by caseypotts View Post
I'm a little confused as to the type of sender you are using with the SpeedHut. Their system comes with their own sender (it is modified from what appears to be an OMIX/Crown sender. Are you saying that you take a new OMIX/Crown and have to modify it yourself every couple of years?

I don't have a better sender but I can tell you I put in a Genright fuel access panel for about $145. It has payed for itself many times over. I can get to my pump and sender within 10 minutes, no dropping the tank, no getting on the ground, no playing with wires. It is all right there.

**** SORRY**** never considered that you don't have fuel injection. Just consider they Genright access panel!
Not a problem, Casey. I'm still running the stock fuel pump with the old school sender. No modifications have to be made from a sender standpoint. The senders are just cheap pieces of you-know-what.
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post #7 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfin188t View Post
I second recommendation for getting a sending unit from MTS. However it comes with a plastic float; I went to CJ Pony Parts and ordered the brass float p/n FSUF to replace the plastic float. The plastic floats will crack over time and fill with gas.
I saved the brass float from my first replacement, redfin, but didn't use it when I put the second sending unit in. Sure enough, about a year later, float filled with gas. I dug the old float out and put it back into service, where it has remained through two more sending units (at least, I'm losing count).

What makes the MTS senders better? (I just called but got no answer. The site says Central and I'm eastern. I might give them another buzz).
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post #8 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 04:10 PM
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I installed a 21 gallon polyethylene tank on my '77 CJ-5 like 15 years or so ago.

Pics and part # at the bottom of "War and Peace"

I was driving a 15 gallon tank out every 2 days, back and forth to work, my 21 gallon bought me a 3rd day before I had to fill up.

My sender was taking forever to arrive---I called them and they sent another one. Soon after the 1st sender arrived and I put it in---the replacement arrived!

Quadratic (I think) told me to keep it.......I like Quadratec!

So---So far no problems---I may have put the brass float on the arm from the original tank.

I play/ tweak my senders before I install them. I want perfect needle of "E" to be my warning that I don't have much left

As that is used, my needle will drop below the line (I moved the low limiter tab slightly so the float will drop to the bottom of the tank, and not stay over "E")

I do not care that the needle climbs past "F" ---usually buried up high till I use some fuel (I also tweak the high tab so that the arm can rise and bump the tank's top---not be held back by the tab).

I begin with a "Float buoyancy test"----2 or 3 inches of gas in a suitable container----I hold the sender level as it normally sits so there is no resistance to the arm---I float the float in the gas (with the arm weighing it as it would in the tank) For giggles here, I'm going to say it sunk into the gas, a 1/4 of an inch (it's usually less than that).

Conclusion---it floats well and 1/4 of an inch up from the bottom is "Dead Empty"---I want my needle to show less than "E"

Next I usually do this on a door---the door to my tool room off of my garage. Any thing, poster board/ plywood will work.

I measure the inside of my tank and draw a line below the top of my door to represent the tank's bottom. Remember a 1/4 inch up from there, the float will hit bottom with no fuel left below it (in a perfect world) ********** The top edge of the door will be the top of the tank.

HERE'S WHERE THE FUN BEGINS!!! Normally you can get one end of arm travel to work fine, the other end may suffer a little, that's my reason to want to know where "Empty" will show up----"full" perfection is no big concern------"Low" means find a gas station, or get ready to use my Jerry Can.

Lay the sender's top---on top of the door, position it so that the float can freely dangle and move up or down.

EZ part will be to move the limiting tabs, at the top end of the arm (if need be) so that the arm/ float will bottom out on the lower pencil line

Lifting the arm with no stress, bend that limiter so the float will be even with the top of the door.

Both cases--It's OK to slightly be too high or low----the tank's inner top and bottom will be the limiters now! Your rheostat is not going to read like it did! We will make it better!

Bend the tabs---don't "crowbar" them by forcing them with the arm.

My sender is TEMPORARILY set perfect for up and down travel.

It's time to TWEAK things so that my needle is where I want it when I hit the "E" mark.

I usually "Jumper Wire" onto the wire that actually connects to my sender----I have to ground the sender too with another jumper!-----this may also use any resistance in the original wiring that may affect the gauge (I'm no electrician, it may not matter.)

My jumper wires are long enough so that I can move the sender arm, and observe the Fuel Gauge at the same time.

The gauge will react slowly, so give it time to catch up to your sender.

From here on it's going to be---slightly bending the "Elbow" of the arm---to up or down the float, it's has turned into a geometry thing!......you may even have to bend above or below the elbow to tweak it in!

I have even slightly slightly slightly formed "Mild" "S"s into the down ward rod to shorten it up.

Each time you TWEAK, take it over to the door and see what you must do to keep it within the top and bottom of the tank......Then hook back to the gauge and test "E" again.

You will be bending and checking distances at the door a lot!

Eventually you will get "E" where you want it (or "F" if you go that route) I seriously doubt that both will work out prefect----but maybe!

Yes, I spend a lot of time doing this, it's usually worth it not having to snatch it all back apart!

The stuff I discussed may not all be necessary to tweak yours in----It could be dead on out of the box!

Just a note, I've never used one, I have heard that a "boat" sender will work. The one's I'm referring to adjust similar to my Willys (slide up and down and lock with screws)

The difference being they do not have an arm, the "float" slides straight up and down captured in rails, as it slides it twists a slightly spiraled rod---that rod moves the rheostat at the top.

One would have to fine one that would fit the tank hole and also have the correct windings to operate the Jeep fuel gauge.

------JEEPFELLER

https://www.4-wheel-parts.de/en/Fuel...ear-78-86.html

Last 3 pic are from messing with the sender for my '46 Willys
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post #9 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks much for all the time to construct a fantastic write up, Jeep Feller. (I read every word.) Thanks for the pics, too. You remind me of the old guy who wrote the Jeep Bible! Very similar style.

I use a similar approach but use the tank sitting level with a gallon of gas as 'empty'. Like you, I don't worry too much about 'full' as long as it actually reads full when it's supposed to. The Speed Hut gas gauge actually does the tweeking for you. It's possible the gauge may have gone haywire but in the past it has always been the sending unit. I wanted to try that before reaching out to Speed Hut.
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post #10 of 33 Old 10-13-2021, 08:18 PM
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myrtle77

I reckon you have seen

Post 11 in here--- https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/8...issue-4338415/

and

Post 1 in here---- https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/g...e-fix-4424051/

-----JEEPFELLER
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post #11 of 33 Old 10-14-2021, 03:52 AM
John Strenk
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I haven't tried these yet but it looks like something that would be permanent and since the Speedhut gauges can be set for any resistance, pick the best one to fit.


Most aftermarket fuel senders use a rotating float arm and resistance cards to measure the amount of fuel in a tank which can lead to erratic pointer movements.
This revolutionary design comes with many benefits!
This is ideal for applications where a conventional swing arm will not fit due to clearance issues.
The tubular design acts as a dampener to prevent the gauge pointer from moving due to fuel slosh.
The floatless fuel sender has no side to side motion, which means it has no moving parts to wear out.
It is top mounted and utilizes the aftermarket standard SAE 5 hole mounting flange and comes complete with neoprene gasket and mounting hardware.
This sender is available in five different ohm ranges:
0-30, 0-90, 73-10, 240-33 and 10-180

and is compatible with gasoline, diesel, oils, and many other fluids.

Application Listing:

240-33 Ohms - Standard Aftermarket - T-SW-**
10-180 Ohms - VDO gauges - T-VDO-**
0-30 Ohms - GM up to 1964 - T-GME-**
0-90 Ohms - GM 1965 and up - T-GML-**
73-10 Ohms - Early Ford & Mopar - T-ORG-**

** Represents the size of tube length (1" increments) from the bottom of the mounting flange.
At least 1/4" of clearance is needed from the end of the tube to the bottom of the tank.

Senders with tube lengths from 5"-10" are $99 each.
Senders with tube lengths of 11" to 24" are $112 each.
Tube senders that are 11" and longer are non-returnable and some sizes may take up to 3-4 weeks to ship.
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...EaAhukEALw_wcB

Summit Racing sells these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...AaAva0EALw_wcB

You have to find the right length.

And you would have to cut a new hole in your tank and use your existing fuel pickup.
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post #12 of 33 Old 10-14-2021, 06:41 AM
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Just for giggles, you could any aftermarket sender and put one of these in: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd748.htm

Although the 73-10 Ohms versions from Tanks should match what the factory gauge is expecting, I think.

I put a small square of chalkboard paint above the gauge and we jot down the mileage at fill up and go from there...
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post #13 of 33 Old 10-14-2021, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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John, you can always be counted on for an informative, quality reply and it's much appreciated. I'll give this option consideration once I drop the tank. I'm not crazy about cutting into the tank but I'm sick of this particular failure. (All my work is done alone and that tank's getting to be a bear given the birthdays behind me).

I have compiled a list of parts to convert to an electric fuel pump, but given time constraints was going for the quickest fix. Maybe I should 'make time' on this one.

Thanks again for the input. I like the 'no float' option a lot.

P.S. I couldn't get in touch with MTS yesterday but found the MTS sending units on the Gas Tank Depot site last night and ordered it. Thanks much to the guys who recommended this option, too.
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post #14 of 33 Old 10-14-2021, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Dolson, this option isn't really necessary for my situation, but for anyone out there trying to match sending unit ohms with their gas gauge, this is a killer fix. Thanks much!
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post #15 of 33 Old 10-14-2021, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
I haven't tried these yet but it looks like something that would be permanent and since the Speedhut gauges can be set for any resistance, pick the best one to fit.
Most aftermarket fuel senders use a rotating float arm and resistance cards to measure the amount of fuel in a tank which can lead to erratic pointer movements.
This revolutionary design comes with many benefits!
This is ideal for applications where a conventional swing arm will not fit due to clearance issues.
The tubular design acts as a dampener to prevent the gauge pointer from moving due to fuel slosh.
The floatless fuel sender has no side to side motion, which means it has no moving parts to wear out.
It is top mounted and utilizes the aftermarket standard SAE 5 hole mounting flange and comes complete with neoprene gasket and mounting hardware.
This sender is available in five different ohm ranges:
0-30, 0-90, 73-10, 240-33 and 10-180

and is compatible with gasoline, diesel, oils, and many other fluids.

Application Listing:

240-33 Ohms - Standard Aftermarket - T-SW-**
10-180 Ohms - VDO gauges - T-VDO-**
0-30 Ohms - GM up to 1964 - T-GME-**
0-90 Ohms - GM 1965 and up - T-GML-**
73-10 Ohms - Early Ford & Mopar - T-ORG-**

** Represents the size of tube length (1" increments) from the bottom of the mounting flange.
At least 1/4" of clearance is needed from the end of the tube to the bottom of the tank.

Senders with tube lengths from 5"-10" are $99 each.
Senders with tube lengths of 11" to 24" are $112 each.
Tube senders that are 11" and longer are non-returnable and some sizes may take up to 3-4 weeks to ship.
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...EaAhukEALw_wcB

Summit Racing sells these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...AaAva0EALw_wcB

You have to find the right length.

And you would have to cut a new hole in your tank and use your existing fuel pickup.
That's interesting. "Floatless" would imply that's a capacitance type sender?
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