Battery Cable Replacement - Upgrade Kit Recommendations? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
sampsonrustic
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Battery Cable Replacement - Upgrade Kit Recommendations?

Single battery - cables are shot - would like to replace the cables with something beefier while Iím at it. Thinking #2 gauge.

Also should a replacement have a fusible link for the alternator cable on an 86 CJ?


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post #2 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 03:48 AM
UltdRubi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampsonrustic View Post
Single battery - cables are shot - would like to replace the cables with something beefier while Iím at it. Thinking #2 gauge.

Also should a replacement have a fusible link for the alternator cable on an 86 CJ?

https://jeepcables.com/cj-big-7-complete-kit/
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post #3 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
sampsonrustic
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canít believe that didnít come up in all my searching. Thank you for the link that looks great.


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post #4 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Battery Cable Replacement - Upgrade Kit Recommendations?

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Originally Posted by UltdRubi View Post

Any idea what the differences are between engine choices? Looks like Iíll have to choose between L134 and I6 - Iíve got the 2.5l 150 in my 86

I emailed the guy through the site - Iíll report back what I find out.


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post #5 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Okay the guyís name is Paul and he said to get the YJ 2.5l set. Will report back with further findings if I pull the trigger.


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post #6 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 09:12 AM
robblue6412
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It's pretty convenient to get the entire cable set in a kit, but $140 seems a little steep to me. I ordered these off Amazon in the various lengths that I needed and they work great. I think I replaced all my cables and battery connectors for under $75:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also picked up this breaker for my winch so I can power it only when needed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rob
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post #7 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 09:14 AM
StoneTower
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Do you know how to solder? You could make your own and save a bunch of money.


I don't crimp mine. If something gets hot enough to melt the solder, I have much bigger problems.
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post #8 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 09:23 AM
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Copper ends can still corrode, and will. I suggest using tinned copper components to eliminate that. You can make your own custom cables pretty easily and buy the components much cheaper. www.Westmarine.com offers marine grade tinned copper wire by the foot and Ancor tinned terminals. They also offer pre-made cables for much cheaper.
For the battery terminal ends I recommend the Quick Cable solder fusion terminals. Easy to install, no crimping and makes a great soldered connection simply using a torch. Available at McMaster-Carr, as is the shrink tube.
https://www.westmarine.com/battery-cable
http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=74
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post #9 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
sampsonrustic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robblue6412 View Post
It's pretty convenient to get the entire cable set in a kit, but $140 seems a little steep to me. I ordered these off Amazon in the various lengths that I needed and they work great. I think I replaced all my cables and battery connectors for under $75:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also picked up this breaker for my winch so I can power it only when needed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This seems like a good way to go. How did you handle ground wire and/or fusible link for the alternator cable? My wiring doesn't look stock so I'm not sure if my 86 has that fusible link or not.
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post #10 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
sampsonrustic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Copper ends can still corrode, and will. I suggest using tinned copper components to eliminate that. You can make your own custom cables pretty easily and buy the components much cheaper. www.Westmarine.com offers marine grade tinned copper wire by the foot and Ancor tinned terminals. They also offer pre-made cables for much cheaper.
For the battery terminal ends I recommend the Quick Cable solder fusion terminals. Easy to install, no crimping and makes a great soldered connection simply using a torch. Available at McMaster-Carr, as is the shrink tube.
https://www.westmarine.com/battery-cable
http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=74
https://youtu.be/YIe-2vUwXqw

Thanks for the recs. Iím not opposed to making them myself. I just wasnít sure how to handle the fusible link for the alternator <> cable. Do you just buy a 6 gauge wire and solder that to the 2 gauge wire for the fusible link?

It all just starts creeping beyond my desire to spend hours researching electrical and acquiring all the parts just to make 3 mediocre quality cables.

Also not sure what to do for the ground.


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post #11 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 01:11 PM
torkman1983
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Everything you bought looks great. I strongly suggest you set up a good ground system for the entire Jeep from the battery. One easy way to do this is to run the Battery ground to one of the main starter mounting bolts ensuring that it is connected to clean metal with a new bolt. This does a few things for you. First, it provide "0" resistance ground to the starter during start which uses the greatest amount of amps. Second, it is midway in the drivetrain so you are providing direct battery ground to the engine and drivetrain. Third, it is a great central location to add 3 additional grounding wires (12g)that run to important parts of the Jeep. One to the front grill, one inside to the dash, and one to the tub somewhere half way down. In realty, it would be good to run another wire to the engine block and another to the frame and then a braided grounding strap from the engine mount to the frame. Point here is that your battery performance is directly related to the quality of your grounds. If you ensure you have excellent grounding directly from the battery throughout the Jeep, then when you have electrical issues you can trace the problem easier knowing it is not a grounding problem. On my Jeep the large ground cable from the battery to the starter mounting bolt makes for a great central location to add additional 12g wires on ring connectors that go right on the same bolt with the battery cable., This ensures all portions of the Jeep are grounded directly to the battery. I have at or near "0" resistance from the ground battery terminal to any spot on the entire Jeep from rear bumper to front bumper.
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post #12 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 01:23 PM
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As far as the FL from the alternator, YES!!! You should also have one from the solenoid to the wiring harness just like the factory did (large pink wires). A fusible link is often said to be nothing more than a wire 2 gauges smaller than the wire from the component with the theory that the smaller wire will burn up and force a disconnect. While that is partially true, a FL also has an increased amount of insulation around that smaller wire so that if/when it burns through, the burn through is limited to the internal wire and does not exit through the insulation. You can buy a FL online (select the size based on the size of the wire you are protecting) or you can add an inline fuse from the alternator. Assuming you have a stock alternator and assuming it is rated at 80 amps (you will likey never see 80 amps), you could get a fuse rated at 80 amps and it would protect a surge condition. In reality, you could go with a 50 amp and likely never blow it. But the bottom line is that you need to protect your battery and your harness from an internal resistor fault within the alternator. The stock FL works great, you can buy one, or you can get them at any pick and pull yard by the dozen using some wire cutters. I would just buy one or use a fuse...but remember to protect the main power lead from the solenoid to the harness with a FL or breaker as well.
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post #13 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampsonrustic View Post
This seems like a good way to go. How did you handle ground wire and/or fusible link for the alternator cable? My wiring doesn't look stock so I'm not sure if my 86 has that fusible link or not.
Sampson, you should have a fusible link between the starter solenoid and the alternator as mentioned above. Outlining this on a wire diagram for a V8 CJ, but the requirement should be the same for an I6. You can pickup a length of this from Amazon as well: https://www.amazon.com/Pico-8125PT-G...orumconvert-20

My wiring is all stock and intact, so I didn't touch anything but the 2Ga battery cables. Also this thread might be helpful: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/f...nator-3958866/

Regarding ground, see the second photo attached. I added a ground bus bar to the firewall and ran a 12Ga wire to it from the battery. From here I have a ground wire attached to the firewall and one that runs through the firewall into the back of the dash for a dedicated ground for the instruments. My negative battery cable is connected to a spot on the engine block.
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post #14 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 06:27 PM
UltdRubi
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I don't crimp mine. If something gets hot enough to melt the solder, I have much bigger problems.
Crimping is superior to soldering.
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post #15 of 34 Old 04-02-2021, 06:31 PM
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Crimping is superior to soldering.

You should be doing both, crimp for a mechanical connection, solder for the electrical connection. Then heat shrink the connection.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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