Barn Find 79 CJ5 Frame Off Restoration - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 338 Old 08-02-2018, 08:50 AM
puppybreath
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Whenever I sanded or blasted to bare metal and planned to leave it for a while, I'd wipe it down with ATF. A good wash with TSP when ready to paint will clean it up nicely. In stronger solutions TSP will etch paint and most metals leaving a good tooth for priming and paint.
Wear gloves and basic 'splash' safety equipment because it will irritate skin.

Where there is braze and other fills, you may want to prime those areas first, then put on a full coat because the different textured surfaces can show through on the finish coat as an odd 'shadow' effect or shinier spot.

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post #62 of 338 Old 08-02-2018, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
Ball mount for 102" whip CB antenna


You rock! I appreciate you looking into that for me.

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post #63 of 338 Old 08-02-2018, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by puppybreath View Post
Whenever I sanded or blasted to bare metal and planned to leave it for a while, I'd wipe it down with ATF. A good wash with TSP when ready to paint will clean it up nicely. In stronger solutions TSP will etch paint and most metals leaving a good tooth for priming and paint.
Wear gloves and basic 'splash' safety equipment because it will irritate skin.

Where there is braze and other fills, you may want to prime those areas first, then put on a full coat because the different textured surfaces can show through on the finish coat as an odd 'shadow' effect or shinier spot.
Thanks for the advice! It has already started to flash rust today so I talked to a metallurgist at work and he said that WD40 would actually be a great rust preventative while i do body work. He also said to use a 600 grit sand paper to remove the flash rust now using the WD40 as a sort of wash solution. Sounds plausible right?
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post #64 of 338 Old 08-02-2018, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puppybreath View Post
Whenever I sanded or blasted to bare metal and planned to leave it for a while, I'd wipe it down with ATF. A good wash with TSP when ready to paint will clean it up nicely. In stronger solutions TSP will etch paint and most metals leaving a good tooth for priming and paint.
Wear gloves and basic 'splash' safety equipment because it will irritate skin.

Where there is braze and other fills, you may want to prime those areas first, then put on a full coat because the different textured surfaces can show through on the finish coat as an odd 'shadow' effect or shinier spot.
Also I plan on cutting all of the braze and lead out. Planning a lot of metal work on this bad boy.

79 CJ5
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post #65 of 338 Old 08-03-2018, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
Ball mount for 102" whip CB antenna


That was going to be my guess as well.
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post #66 of 338 Old 08-07-2018, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Finally a notable update. As I am close to done with wire wheeling the frame I cut the back bumper off in order to straighten it, but also so I'm able to access and clean the insides of the frame tubes.
cj-bumper.jpg
After straightening I ran it through the shot blaster to really clean it up. It looks alot better than it did so I'm happy with it. Next step is to get ready to put some POR-15 down. I plan on doing as many parts as I can at once.
What's an update without bonus pics? Here is some of the old lead filled body work we uncovered.
old-body-work.jpg
This picture is a shot of the tub side straight on. It makes me think of that John Mayer song "Your body is a Wonder Land". It's not a good thing.
body-wonder-land.jpg
Here I have the 304 pushed off to the side and out of the way until I have time to start tearing her down. With 180k original miles and never been gone through to my knowledge...it's hard to think I could get away with out any machine work on it right?
304.jpg

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post #67 of 338 Old 08-07-2018, 03:10 PM
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Loooove the deer skulls

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post #68 of 338 Old 08-07-2018, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by garet.friedrich View Post
I plan on running with the original leafs for awhile. I heard that I could shim them up to get roughly an inch of lift out of them. Does anybody know if there is any truth to that?

You can run a longer shackle to get some lift with the stock springs, but being spring under, any shim you add will lower the vehicle. Since you are planning to reuse the stock springs, I would take the leaf pack apart and run each leaf through individually and then get good paint and new leaf sliders installed for the best possible ride.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #69 of 338 Old 08-08-2018, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Loooove the deer skulls

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Glad you enjoy. I just recently tuned into your CJ5-CJ6 build. Makes me feel like mine is easily achievable in comparison haha.

79 CJ5
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post #70 of 338 Old 08-08-2018, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
You can run a longer shackle to get some lift with the stock springs, but being spring under, any shim you add will lower the vehicle. Since you are planning to reuse the stock springs, I would take the leaf pack apart and run each leaf through individually and then get good paint and new leaf sliders installed for the best possible ride.
Thanks for the advice. My real goal is to buy a 2.5" lift kit, but i'm trying to save money throughout the build first. So I'm not sure if i'll upgrade years down the road or the second i complete the build yet. In the mean time I plan on POR-15 the whole leaf pack. I think i saw another build on here where they painted the whole pack at once? I think it was Coiz but I will have to go back and check.

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post #71 of 338 Old 08-08-2018, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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Last night I wire wheeled for a couple hours. I felt overwhelmed by how much I had to wire wheel yet so I just kind of jumped all over. Here is 5 minutes worth of wheeling on one of the headers.
headers.jpg
I've been spraying WD40 down first and then hitting it and it seems to help the process along quite a bit. I will still need to go through and hit it a couple more thorough times but it's a good start. One day at a time.

79 CJ5
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post #72 of 338 Old 08-10-2018, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Alright so at this stage of my build I'm starting to run into more questions than I have answers for. I'm quickly learning that I can't just spend all of my time wire wheeling and expect to get very far. Since I am such a beginner at all of this I was hoping that some of you kind souls would take the time and answer a few of my questions. I have been scouring all of the other awesome frame off restoration builds i can but some things still have me stumped. So please bare with me as I'm sure some of these will be common sense questions:
-After much consideration I've decided to go through and disassemble my axles and brakes. I have not a clue on where to even begin. Does anybody have a link to a very detailed (picture heavy) thread or website that shows step by step processes and proper tools?
-On the subject of axles, I've noticed I do not have lock out hubs only black caps of a sort. Do these leave my front tires always engaged? Would lock hubs be a more beneficial route to go?
-In the frame I have a couple of broken off bolts. Not having the proper tools I tried to drill them out. I started from small bits and worked my way bigger but unfortunately I wasn't able to start perfectly center so my holes have blown through a side of the bolt leaving a half moon partial bolt still in place if you will. What should I do to finish removing these? I can supply a picture example tonight.
-I'm trying to save money by taking the old tires off of the rim myself. This is proving to be quite tedious. Anybody have any tips and tricks for somebody with limited tool resources?
-I would think my transmission and transfer case are pretty solid. What minor things would you guys suggest I do to them just to ensure they are good to go again?

I think that's all I have for now but I would really appreciate hearing from you guys that have been there before and know the proper way to do things. Thanks in advance!

79 CJ5
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post #73 of 338 Old 08-10-2018, 10:01 AM
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1. If the backlash feels good and the diff looks clean after you pop the cover off, then I wouldn't dig too far into it as taking it all of the way apart and resetting up used gears is not easy. At the most, you can pop the carrier out and change the inner seals. No 'special' tools really needed to rebuild the front other than the big socket for the spindle nuts and your standard brake tools. i would focus on the brakes and front wheel bearings. rear I would do 1 piece axle shafts and rebuild the brakes only.



2 yes with the drive flanges you have, the front tires are always engaged to the axle shafts. lockouts will help a bit on mileage and wear on the ujoints. also if you lift and don't have the best front pinion angle. lockouts are easy to install when you have it all taken apart


3. you can finish overdrilling the holes and then insert a nutsert to get a good new nut in the frame.


4. knock the valve stems out once you have let all of the air out of the tires. then use your trusty high-lift jack and something heavy/solid to jack against to pop the bead, then invest in a set of tire spoons to work the bead off. lots of youtube videos on how to do this


5. change fluids and check the seals, other than that the t-case and trans should be good to go.

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post #74 of 338 Old 08-10-2018, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
1. If the backlash feels good and the diff looks clean after you pop the cover off, then I wouldn't dig too far into it as taking it all of the way apart and resetting up used gears is not easy. At the most, you can pop the carrier out and change the inner seals. No 'special' tools really needed to rebuild the front other than the big socket for the spindle nuts and your standard brake tools. i would focus on the brakes and front wheel bearings. rear I would do 1 piece axle shafts and rebuild the brakes only.



2 yes with the drive flanges you have, the front tires are always engaged to the axle shafts. lockouts will help a bit on mileage and wear on the ujoints. also if you lift and don't have the best front pinion angle. lockouts are easy to install when you have it all taken apart


3. you can finish overdrilling the holes and then insert a nutsert to get a good new nut in the frame.


4. knock the valve stems out once you have let all of the air out of the tires. then use your trusty high-lift jack and something heavy/solid to jack against to pop the bead, then invest in a set of tire spoons to work the bead off. lots of youtube videos on how to do this


5. change fluids and check the seals, other than that the t-case and trans should be good to go.
1. So you would pull the axle shafts completely out?

2. Would I need to get new drive flanges with the lock outs?

3. Great idea!

4. No high lift jack unfortunately. I've seen youtube videos that suggest driving your vehicle over the edge of the tire to pop the bead. Might try that.

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post #75 of 338 Old 08-10-2018, 10:41 AM
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https://youtu.be/5XVpU8F-Fzk

Found this video pretty helpful for disassembling my front axle. He has a couple other videos for reassembly.


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