Bargain Bin Jeep Build - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 51 Old 09-27-2018, 11:47 AM
Fireblade
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it works !

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post #32 of 51 Old 09-27-2018, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome! Thank you sir for letting me know!
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post #33 of 51 Old 09-27-2018, 12:07 PM
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I'm looking for a Scout II Dana 300. Drop me a line if you have any leads. Thanks
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post #34 of 51 Old 02-11-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Well it's been a time of transition the last few months. My wife and I bought our first house, found out we were pregnant, and I am now employed full-time at the Church I have been serving at for the last 5 years. On top of that my mom was diagnosed with cancer in the Fall, which she just got the all clear from after surgery and several months of radiation! Thank God she is alright and our baby is growing quickly! Needless to say life got in the way of major progress with the Jeep!

Some progress on the Jeep build:
I did some modifications to the Edelbrock 1406 I found on IFSJA and Pirate4x4. I'm glad to say this carb runs no matter what way I'm headed and regardless of how off-camber the Jeep is. I do need to add a choke to ease the starting but once it's warmed up the Jeep barely turns over once before the engine catches.

I also mounted my Warn 8274 up front and tested it for the first time. The Jeep Club I am a member of came together to buy the winch for my wedding present 2.5 years ago and it is now finally getting used! Man does that thing fly!

The last thing I was able to do was fab a skid plate for the belly from 1/4 steel. It took forever with a 4.5" grinder but eventually I finished up the cut and was able to get it mounted to the frame rails. I will be adding bracing in the future and a engine skid off the front of this skid plate but that is for another time when I get a 220V line run into the garage.
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post #35 of 51 Old 02-11-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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That brings you up-to-date with that status of the Jeep in late January 2019. On February 2, 2019 I meet some friends from the Jeep Club at Gulches Offroad Park in Waterloo, SC for a test drive. At this point I had installed JB Fab cable twin-sticks and made sure everything was running properly while driving around the neighborhood/town for an hour.

Here are some videos from the test drive:
You can hear me complain when the driver's tire contacts the fender even after I moved the fender up 3 inches! All that work for the tire to self-clearance within the first 1/2 mile of the trailer!

The second trail we went down nearly resulted in a flop. I was spotted by a friend who over estimated my width and luckily the Jeep stayed wheels down. This is the last time I trust him for spotting!

I tried to make Shipwreck but the lack of traction combined with a very loose limited slip in the rear axle stopped me from making the climb.

I'll update the to-do list in another post as this trip highlighted several issues I was not aware of before!
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post #36 of 51 Old 02-11-2019, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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The trip to Gulches went great but I ran into several issues I did not foresee:

1. I lost a drive flange hub cover somewhere and was unable to recover it so I need to order a set of hubs, but I am not sure what brand to order. I am leaning towards using the hub as the weak point in the drivetrain so if one lets go I can easily slide in a drive flange and keep moving along. If I need to I can throw in the drive flanges, remove the front driveshaft, and make my way home from trail if I do not have my truck and trailer with me. Anyone have any ideas on a budget friendly selectable hub for the Waggy D44 front?

2. The rear axle drive flange OD is too large for the mag slot wheels I want to run. My dream is to run aluminum beadlocks but they cost way too much money for now so I am stuck with the mag slots! I really like the look of the mag slots, I own them, and my 35's are mounted already so I need to bore out the wheels or bore down the axle flange OD. See pictures below:

3. The biggest issue the trip to Gulches revealed was steering problems. The PS Pump started making noise and puked fluid an hour into the trip. We pulled over, removed the belt, cleaned off the PS fluid, and kept going. I think the PS Pump was slightly over-filled which caused the fluid to spill over during the trip. I also have some serious clearance issues. I am ordering some standard misalignment spacers to see if they will create enough clearance for the drag link; however, I am already planning on having to notch the passenger frame rail to create enough clearance so I do not have to limit the uptravel as much. If you look at the pictures though you see I will probably have to move the steering box forward and up to create the clearance needed for the pitman arm. It's either that or use a shorter pitman arm and the current Waggy pitman arm exactly matches the measurement from the ball joint to the tie rod.
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post #37 of 51 Old 08-13-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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I've been pretty busy since my first test drive in February with getting the house ready for our first child and of course after her birth. Now that everything is calming down I was able to work on the Jeep some more over the last month and weekend. It seems this Jeep is going to forever be built in stages and not in a short period as life keeps throwing things in the way of me finishing the Jeep!

I nailed down a dash layout for the Jeep and fabricated the new dash last week and spent this weekend finishing it and laying down some paint. I decided to paint the Jeep GM Race Red and used Duplicolor Perfect Match paint and Spraymax 2K Clear on the dash. The picture below was taken 15 minutes after I sprayed the last coat of clear yesterday. Of course, the humidity made painting extremely difficult and I'm concerned the finish is going to take quite a bit of wet sanding and buffing to look perfect.
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post #38 of 51 Old 08-13-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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A few post back I showed where I had some serious clearance issues between the drag link and frame. This past weekend I was able to take a piece of 1/4" 2"x4" tubing and notch the frame to open up 2" of extra uptravel! I'm won't have time to brace the notch before my trip this weekend but I'm also wondering if I even need to put a brace in above the notch.

What do y'all think, brace above the notch or leave it along?
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post #39 of 51 Old 08-13-2019, 11:03 PM
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Thanks for the great detail in your post...there's some good info here for me as well as many others, I'm sure.

Is it just me, or does something about the lines of the modded fenders, hood and grill remind you of a Range Rover? Not a bad thing, just thought it was interesting.
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post #40 of 51 Old 08-16-2019, 03:14 AM
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Just read your build, subscribed.

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post #41 of 51 Old 09-05-2019, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally finished all the hard fab work on the dash and got the gauges, heater controls, 12v charging ports, and glove box all situated. Painting in 102 degree heat with 95% humidity was not a smart decision but I can always redo the paint later when the body gets painted. This weekend I got the new dash installed and connected using weatherpack connectors. I haven’t connected the fuel pump wiring because I am fabricating a gas tank lift right now.

I also drove into town sitting on a bucket and man that was awesome! It feels so good to drive something you built with your own hands!!

Tonight I removed some old side step brackets from the frame, ground down the booger welds, and laid down some paint on the frame. I’ve only got 1 month left before Dixie Run and I’m gonna get this thing as close to prepared as I can!
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post #42 of 51 Old 10-21-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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A few weekends back I went to AOP to test the Jeep and hang with some good buddies for a event called Dixie Run hosted by SFWDA. It was such a awesome weekend hitting the hardest blue trails at the park! The Jeep performed phenomenally and made through every trail I attempted. I also added up the money I’ve spent on the Jeep and surprisingly I’ve only spent $4650 which includes the tubing for a cage, bender die, metal to build a trans tunnel out of, and a Waggy steering box!

The weekend wasn’t without breakage though. My power steering went crazy again and I drove all day Friday without any steering assistance. I also spun the weld loose on my driveshaft using too much WOOOPOOW but that was a easy fix until I bent the driveshaft on Saturday. Now I need to lift the front 3/4”, add bump stops, buy and mount shocks, figure out my power steering issues, and build a 2 piece front driveshaft. I’ve attached the to-do list to finish the Jeep and make it street legal!
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post #43 of 51 Old 10-22-2019, 06:11 AM
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Dont know how i missed this build. Here are some pictures of the 2 piece shaft i built for mine. I had to have one to clear my transmission pan. I also wanted to raise it up, after doing a cut and turn on my inner Cs to turn the pinion up 15* for clearance. I got tired of bending 2 or 3 driveshafts every year.
Ill be redoing it this winter. This was what i threw together with extra junk laying around, but it is holding up surprisingly well.
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post #44 of 51 Old 10-22-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much Skizriz for all those pictures! I'll for sure copy several of your design features when it comes time to build my new front driveshaft! It would be awesome to rotate the pinion up and get the driveshaft a bit more out of harms way as this is the second trip in a row that I have messed up my driveshaft on!

My next to-do list is to pull apart my leaf springs, set my bumpstops, build a new set of leaf springs, fab a high clearance u-bolt plate for the passenger side, paint everything, and torque it down! Then I'll move onto steering! @skizriz how did you like the upgrade to hydro-assist? I didn't think it would be required for 35's but when I move to 37's I feel like its going to be required so I figured I would go ahead and start saving.
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post #45 of 51 Old 10-22-2019, 08:04 PM
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Rotating the pinion up for a sort of "redneck high pinion" was something I had been thinking about for a couple of years. It was a lot of work to cut and turn the inner Cs, but well worth it in the end. I was narrowing one side anyhow, so it was kind of a no brainer. All summer long, and only a couple of small scratches on my front shaft this year.
Way better than the long, low hanging front shaft it used to have.


The upgrade to hydro assist is money that I wish I had spent years ago. For the couple of hundred it cost, it was money very well spent.
I never had much of a problem with my steering,with a J10 box, flat top knuckles, and full crossover, it always did fine. Most of the local off road parks I went to had short trails, 100 yds or so, then a short ride to another trail. Things had time to cool down. One day at a new place, on a run with the big boys, the trails were 100s of yds long, with relentless boulders from start to finish. My steering got so hot, it melted all of the seals out, and puked everything out of the box that night.
That was when I went to hydro assist.
I can sit on pavement, at idle, with 39" BFG sticky tires, and turn the wheel with one finger now. I've used a tire to push off of trees by turning a tire against it. It's as effortless at the end of the day as it is at the beginning.

I used a 1.5 6" cylinder from Surplus City (?), a tube clamp, and hoses made up at the local NAPA. I use the stock pump, with the orifice drilled bigger for a little more flow.
I would got with a better cylinder next time. Mine has fixed ends that limit mounting options, one with heims that can be adjusted would be nice.
Here is the install on the dana 44.

Hopefully these pictures work, I have never tried the Google picture server before.






I also added a steering cooler at the top of the grille.



Installing it on to the new Dana 60 was a test of patience. It turned out TIGHT. I had to leave the top bolt out of my diff cover because would catch the bolt head.
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