86 CJ7 Brake Booster install Orientation - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 03-26-2020, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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86 CJ7 Brake Booster install Orientation

I installed a OEM stock brake booster this past weekend (haven't done the lines or bled it yet), but I put the hinge portion at the firewall at the 12 o'clock position. It can also get installed at the 6 o'clock position. What is the correct way?


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post #2 of 19 Old 03-26-2020, 02:46 PM
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Yes, hinge side up

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
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post #3 of 19 Old 03-26-2020, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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Thank you fine sir!!!!!

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post #4 of 19 Old 03-27-2020, 03:58 AM
keith460
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Yah, hinge side up.
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Brake Booster Setup (1).jpg  

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post #5 of 19 Old 03-28-2020, 04:00 PM
Roger83
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I have a question for you guys since you're talking about brake boosters. My jeep, an 83 CJ7 came with disc brakes on the front, drums on the rear, manual brakes. I'm adding a power booster and was wondering if I will need a proportioning valve. I've done a couple disc conversions on cars that didn't come with disc brakes and had to have one but this is completely new to me. Thanks for your help
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post #6 of 19 Old 03-29-2020, 12:28 PM
MrPeter63
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@Roger , You have a proportioning valve, it is on the frame under the the drivers side where your feet go. I have an '83 as well, just added the booster and it works awesome..
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-29-2020, 12:33 PM
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The proportioning valve distributes the pressure differently from the front to the back as you don’t want the rear to lock up before the front. The factory proportioning valve that you have now is set up correctly for your front disk /rear drum configuration. The difference in manual versus power brakes is just how much power is felt at the pedal and to a smaller degree how much is applied down the lines.

In your scenario all you need is a power brake master/booster/firewall bracket. Unless you’re running really large tires, I have found the stock replacement parts to be fine if the rest of your brakes are in proper order. The other difference between manual and power brakes are the manual master uses spiraled lines that go down to the proportioning valve where the power master uses straight lines. I know some people just pull on the coil’s and move them over to the master which is now located further forward.If you didn’t want to get the proper length lines.

Edit. Also will need an oem Tear drop air breather unit if all else is stock. This will move the filter to over the valve cover and clear the booster.

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-29-2020, 12:34 PM
Cutlass327
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If you put the hinge side down, the booster would be too high and probably hit the hood. The purpose of the linkage system is to lower the booster a little below centerline of the pushrod.

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #9 of 19 Old 03-29-2020, 02:17 PM
Roger83
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Thanks Mr. Peter, haven't had the truck that long and have just started trying to do something with it. I appreciate the info also knowing that the stock proportioning valve is sufficient for a power booster since it came with manual brakes! Appreciate your help with this.
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post #10 of 19 Old 03-29-2020, 02:20 PM
Roger83
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Thanks Ed, appreciate your info and advice on this. I'll let you know how it all comes out once I get it together.
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-30-2020, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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I have a follow up question for you guys, Just a reminder, I have a 86 CJ7 with stock manual brakes (Disc /Drum). I found an OEM booster, purchased a new M/C and installed it.....I have not finished the install...still needs to be bled and flushed, BUT, I noticed my brake lights were on. I looked and the brake pedal is significantly lower (closer to firewall) and therefore pulling away from the brake light switch. Would this be normal until I get the system bled and vacuum to the brake booster???? When I try to pull the pedal back to its normal position before the install it wont budge from where it sits now.

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post #12 of 19 Old 03-30-2020, 04:42 PM
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Yes, in a stock power brake configuration, the pedal pad does sit lower at rest than in a manual configuration.

The manual masters push rod connects directly to the pedal where the power booster push rod has a different throw and leverage rate due to the swing arm.

Reach underneath and push in the brake switch to adjust it to the new position

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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post #13 of 19 Old 03-30-2020, 05:22 PM
MrPeter63
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I know this from experience, Yes if you mount it hinge down Your hood won't shut! And it really sucks when you figure that out after you've bled everything and nobody around to hold the master cylinder while you flip the booster... lol
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post #14 of 19 Old 03-30-2020, 11:30 PM
Roger83
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Thanks Ed, I'll watch for that when I install my booster. First I heard of that. Is there a way to adjust the pedal up or will the switch automatically reset to the new location?
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-31-2020, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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I haven't adjusted mine yet, but can see that metal tab on the upper part of the brake pedal (just north of the #3 on the pdf) that creates contact with the brake switch. I could not adjust mine with my hands but I bet a pair of pliers will do the trick when I get the brake lines in and this system bled.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf bRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ADJUSTER.pdf (196.9 KB, 9 views)

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