85 CJ7 Turning Radius - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 06-10-2019, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
MetalMountainGoat
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85 CJ7 Turning Radius

I have come across a problem on my CJ and have checked everything that I know to check. Went through old threads, and checked the steering stop posts. They are adjusted fine, checked that the gearbox is centered, it appears to be fine. Even the steering wheel is correct as far as I can tell.

The problem is that the when turning to the left, the steering wheel only makes one revolution, but to the right, it makes 2 revolutions. I cannot figure out what the hell is going on. I have messed with this thing for 2 months, and even when I think I have it perfectly aligned, it still does this. It is driveable in this condition, just don't' try to make any left hand U turns. Any ideas?

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post #2 of 15 Old 06-10-2019, 03:35 PM
stripperguy
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I had a similar situation, but on my LJ. I had swapped in a different steering gear, and the pitman arm didn't index the same as when stock.

Did you remove your drag link and center the steering that way? That would be the first step.

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post #3 of 15 Old 06-10-2019, 03:47 PM
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Picture of steering? Drop pitman arm? Many drop arms, as said are keyed incorrectly and they also have a shorter measurement from hole center to hole center and you get less steering. Also, is the draglink hitting anything? had a poorly done soa and the draglink would contact the spring before turning fully. Steering stabilizer installed incorrectly and bottoming/fully extending before you get full steering?

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post #4 of 15 Old 06-10-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
MetalMountainGoat
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Pitman arm is factory CJ. I did remove the drag link, straighten the front wheels, put the gear box where i thought was the center point, reinstalled it all by adjusting the drag link to match up with the pitman arm and not turn the wheels. It is still off. I need to remove the steering stabilizer and try it. I had not even thought of it possibly bottoming out when turning left and not letting me turn any more. The stabilzer may very well be the issue because I can't see anything else that I am doing wrong. I always aligned my TJs, and never had any issues, but this CJ has been a PITA.

The Jeep is SUA, so there are not contact problems.
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post #5 of 15 Old 06-11-2019, 12:48 PM
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Also, just a thought; if you remove the steering wheel, there you'll see a notch on the collar that should be at TDC when those bottom parts are spot on to the column and tires are straight. You can fine tune it to TDC with the adjusting sleeve on steering linkage. It will help you in ensuring you are on the right track anyway. Good luck! ... just something else to check.
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post #6 of 15 Old 06-11-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
MetalMountainGoat
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I really don't want to take my wheel back off. When I last put it together, there was only one way it could go. Where is this notch that you speak of and by "bottom parts", I'm assuming you mean the steering linage (draglink, tierod, gearbox)
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post #7 of 15 Old 06-11-2019, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
I really don't want to take my wheel back off. When I last put it together, there was only one way it could go. Where is this notch that you speak of and by "bottom parts", I'm assuming you mean the steering linage (draglink, tierod, gearbox)
I don't blame you for not wanting to remove it again.

My notch was on the steering column shaft itself. On mine, when I took the horn cover off, it was visible where the large nut was. There sometimes is one at the opposite end of that shaft at the steering box. It was a factory notch they put there for this reason. Many simply get hammered away through the years because they weren't aware they are there for a reason. So, I centered my pitman arm to my steering box, attached it ... then using the notch on column and putting that at TDC, I was assured I was pretty center at the box and column with equal radius both ways. I then fine tuned the alignment with the collar sleeve on the steering linkage (simply helps centering the steering wheel). I can drive 65mph+ with no hands and it drives perfectly STRAIGHT with equal radius on both sides. Hope this helps?

Yes, I am speaking of the steering linkage. ... Good Luck!
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post #8 of 15 Old 06-11-2019, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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I will go on a search for this notch. I can also drive 65 miles an hour with no hands, but I can turn way sharper one direction than I can the other lol. I will check the stabilizer as well as look for this notch.
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post #9 of 15 Old 06-11-2019, 06:38 PM
John Strenk
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I think these are the marks 258 is talking about.

They should be vertical when the steering wheel is centered.

These marks are also important for the self canceling Turn signal switch.

Note: the wheel wasn't centered when i took these pictures.
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post #10 of 15 Old 06-11-2019, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for those pictures. That explains a lot. I played around with the hub a lot trying to make sure that the horn/turn signal cancel cam all lined up correctly. I could have gotten something off when I was doing this.
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post #11 of 15 Old 06-12-2019, 09:27 AM
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MMG,

My guess is that the gearing box is not centered when the pitman arm was attached. This needs to be done prior to the draglink connection. (I hope I'm remember this correctly.)

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post #12 of 15 Old 06-12-2019, 09:51 AM
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Lightbulb

Do you have a steering stabilizer by chance?

I have seen the bracket for those (the single or double clamp u-bolts) get either installed incorrectly or slide from the original point thereby limiting the ability to make a full turn in one direction due to the stabilizer shock bottoming out (or reaching maximum extension) before the full turning radius is realized.

Just something else to consider... easy to check, simply remove or disconnect one end and see if it makes a difference.

Hoss

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post #13 of 15 Old 06-12-2019, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Figured it out today. I removed the wheel and lined everything up. Notch on wheel, putman arm and all. Still did the same thing. Adjusted putman arm to where it would push both wheels equally, hooked everything up and realized that the wheel was now 180 deg out. It turns out that my steering shaft had already been drilled out and would collapse in and out. I pulled it apart when rebuilding and apparently put it back 180 deg out. Pulled it loose. Pulled the shaft apart. Twisted 180. Reinstalled and viola, fixed. Now turns 1 and 3/4 turns both ways.
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post #14 of 15 Old 06-13-2019, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
Figured it out today. I removed the wheel and lined everything up. Notch on wheel, putman arm and all. Still did the same thing. Adjusted putman arm to where it would push both wheels equally, hooked everything up and realized that the wheel was now 180 deg out. It turns out that my steering shaft had already been drilled out and would collapse in and out. I pulled it apart when rebuilding and apparently put it back 180 deg out. Pulled it loose. Pulled the shaft apart. Twisted 180. Reinstalled and viola, fixed. Now turns 1 and 3/4 turns both ways.

I'm glad you figured it out.

I would of never though to check that.
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post #15 of 15 Old 06-13-2019, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
MetalMountainGoat
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I wouldn't have either, but no matter what I adjusted, I kept getting th same result. It was the only thing left.
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