84 hydraulic clutch master and yj slave? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-04-2021, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
Superjeep3
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84 hydraulic clutch master and yj slave?

As some might know I have a 360 in my 84 cj7 with a nv3550. I have the 360 mated to a 4.0 bell housing and am wanting to move away from the manual linkage clutch to a hydraulic setup. I have an entire hydraulic set up for a 94-95 yj, and a master and line for the cj. I am wanting to see if I can modify the yj setup so that I can use the cj master and hose to connect to the yj slave.

Does anyone have any experience with this?

Also...is there a way to put a bleeder in the slave? There is an area on the housing that has threads, but I am not sure what it is used for.

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post #2 of 13 Old 08-04-2021, 07:40 PM
Jim1611
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I used the hydraulic setup from a 1982 CJ with a 4 cylinder. Mine had a bleeder on the slave. I also bled the system with a vacuum bleeder and it worked great.
I've been running it for over a year now with no problems and am very satisfied with how it works.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-04-2021, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like you are using the novac setup for the bellhousing. Is that correct?
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-04-2021, 09:04 PM
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If you are going to mix the parts up, then you need to:

1. check the cylinder diameters. On my CJ7 they are something like 13/16 on the master and 3/4" on the slave and it gives enough throw. If you have different diameters bear in mind a lighter pedal is not as useful as disengaging the cutch.

2. Fabricate a new line between the two. The CJ master uses old fashioned double flares but I suspect that newer slave is something else. I would look at how to join the bits of hard line you have with a flexible hose which should require you flare the ends and use a brake hose and fittings. Some people just use fuel hose and clamps but I prefer something designed for DOT 3 hydraulic fluid.


As to how you bleed it, mystery. Has it got no bleed nipple at all?

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-05-2021, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superjeep3 View Post
It looks like you are using the novac setup for the bellhousing. Is that correct?
No It's all made by me, that's a Ford 5.0 bellhousing. I ordered a flexible line from inlinetube.com. The heat shield was something I thought would be helpful after reading that some had o-ring failure due to heat. I also ordered some heat protective wrapping from Summit Racing for the line. As Bagus mentioned the parts do need to match. I just used what the factory put together and it seems to work perfect. The pedal is stiff but I have a Lux clutch and pressure plate and they have more spring tension than stock.


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post #6 of 13 Old 08-05-2021, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Looking on google I found that the 84 cj7 master has a .8125 inch bore and the slave off of the 94 yj has a .750 bore. The way I understand it...you want the same diameter or a larger diameter on the master, but not larger on the slave as the master will not be able to fully extend it. I have found a few adapters, but male adapters, and I need a female adapter. I will also have to get longer line, or a different line altogether as the one that came with the 84 aster is not long enough to reach the end of the 94 slave.

This slave has no bleeder valve, but I have read the procedure on how to bleed it...install it...fill the reservoir, pump it about 20 times...should be good.

The slave on my mazda 2500 didnt have a bleeder either. On that one you had to let the slave hang, tap in the line until all the bubble rose up from the line to the master, and then install it. I plan to do both on this one.

The search continues.
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-05-2021, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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I talked to Steve at advanced adapters and he told me what I needed to get to have the two systems work together.

Three parts...a fitting for the master 716130F, a fitting for the slave 716130TJ, and a steel branded line between the two 716130H.
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-05-2021, 11:40 AM
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Pictures coming soon?


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post #9 of 13 Old 08-05-2021, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I will post pics when I am in the process of putting it in after the parts get here. Right now I have to take the transmission and bell housing out to measure if the flywheel will need to be taken to a machine shop as it might be too thick to allow proper clearance between the clutch and the throw out bearing.


The way I understand it, you must measure the distance from the surface of the flywheel to the top of the clutch fingers. Then you must measure from the surface of the bell housing to the top of the throw out bearing. Subtract those two measurements (with an additional 1/8 to 1/4 for proper spacing between the fingers and the throw out bearing), and that should tell you what needs to be taken off of the flywheel...if anything.

Has anyone done this?
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-05-2021, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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I dropped the transmission and transfer case and measured from the outside of the bell housing to the beginning of the throw out bearing and got 4 inches on the dot. I then measured from where the bell housing mates the the engine to the top of the clutch fingers and also got 4 inches on the dot.

After I measured about a dozen times each I took the clutch and flywheel off. My plan is to have the fly wheel faced between somewhere between 1/16 to 1/8 (0.0938?) to allow for a little gap between the throw out bearing and the fingers of the clutch when they are not engaged.
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-05-2021, 06:31 PM
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The size of the master bore and the slave bore do not always match. Depending on how the pedal is setup things can get mixed up. I have a shortened clutch fork because of my previous setup with my Ford 5.0 swap. I run a 5/8" clutch master and a 3/4" slave. Because of the shortened clutch fork I have plenty of throw. Moving from a 3/4 master to a 5/8 master reduced the pedal effort a ton and makes my Jeep fun to drive again. With a 5/8 master a 3/4 slave they will not move an equal amount but you also have to calculate the throw of the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. I have a long throw 5/8 master cylinder and with more pedal travel, it works great with the 1975 Landcruiser slave that I am running. Landcruiser slaves are a very common aftermarket swap and I paid $15.99 for the one I have (RockAuto). It is so much better than the pull slave I had from Wilwood. I had 2 of those fail before I moved on. I like a dependable part that is cheap and easy to replace if needed. With my custom bracket, it works like it was made for my Jeep. The push rod was suppose to be temporary. I was going to make an adjustable pushrod but I did not have my lathe setup at the time and the only 3/8" rods that I had were 12" carriage bolts. I cut it to length for a temporary setup and 4 years later it is still there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Superjeep3 View Post
I will post pics when I am in the process of putting it in after the parts get here. Right now I have to take the transmission and bell housing out to measure if the flywheel will need to be taken to a machine shop as it might be too thick to allow proper clearance between the clutch and the throw out bearing.


The way I understand it, you must measure the distance from the surface of the flywheel to the top of the clutch fingers. Then you must measure from the surface of the bell housing to the top of the throw out bearing. Subtract those two measurements (with an additional 1/8 to 1/4 for proper spacing between the fingers and the throw out bearing), and that should tell you what needs to be taken off of the flywheel...if anything.

Has anyone done this?
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-06-2021, 12:50 AM
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I have adjusable pushrods and they are of limited use. the key element is the length of stroke. as long as the piston is not hard up against the back of the cylinder or its seals popping out of the bore on extension, it will work. Mine have springs between bellhousing and clutch lever fork to pull back the fork so that the piston retracts and keeps in contact with the fork. The pushrod itself being adjustable will not help much.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-06-2021, 05:54 PM
StoneTower
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I thought the idea of an adjustable pushrod was that as the clutch and pressure plate / fly wheel wear, the fingers on the pressure plate push the clutch fork closer to the slave (on a push style setup) and the proper pushrod length needs to be adjusted shorter. If you have it set too close, as the clutch wears, the finger pressure on the clutch fork will not let the pressure plate fully disengaged and you will wear out your clutch very fast. I learned this when I did a frame off rebuild on my 1956 GMC when I was 18 and had no experience fixing vehicles. I thought the proper way to adjust the clutch was to take all the play out of it and I found out the hard way while driving on the freeway in 4the gear. The slipping clutch was burning itself up because my linkage no longer had any play in it and it was not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. At least I got 30K miles out of it before it happened. 45 minutes of work to change the disk and the pressure plate (the flywheel was unharmed) and a properly adjusted linkage with a little pressure slack and I was back on the road. You have to love the Chevy design of the bellhousing with the inspection cover on the bottom. You do not have to remove the bellhousing to change the clutch.
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