84 cj7 sway bar links bushings 2 piece or 1 - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
agear
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I'm replacing my sway bar bushing. The sway bar is 15/16ths. I got moog rubber ones for the cross bar because they're rubber -less squeak and softer right. But the rubber moog ones I see for the end links uses 2 bushings in one eye instead of 1 hourglass bushing like the ones I'm taking out. So I dont know if I should use them. I read another thread that said they were the right ones and so were the poly ones that do come in the 1 piece design .
As long as metal is not rubbing metal in any condition we should be good but.....


1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #2 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 05:28 PM
X-Army
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Replacing the hourglass-shaped bushings with 2-piece is standard practice.
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Originally Posted by X-Army View Post
Replacing the hourglass-shaped bushings with 2-piece is standard practice.

Interesting. Why is that ? And were all cj sway bar set ups essentially the same other than bar diameter ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 07:48 PM
X-Army
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Interesting. Why is that ? And were all cj sway bar set ups essentially the same other than bar diameter ?
My guess is that only a percentage purchasers of sway bar kits will have access to a suitable pressing device or the knowledge of how to do it without damaging the new bushing.
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-07-2019, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Is it normal to have a gap in the split on the frame mounted new sway bar bushings ? I'm thinking it will soften up and will be able to be squeezed together .

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-08-2019, 05:58 AM
Rsb201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Is it normal to have a gap in the split on the frame mounted new sway bar bushings ? I'm thinking it will soften up and will be able to be squeezed together .
Are you sure you ordered the correct size?? Jeep used 2 different sized bars. I found that out when I replaced all my front end parts. I ordered the wrong size and had a gap like you referenced above. As far as the hourglass bushings, you could always just replace the entire dog bone link.

1986 CJ7 4.2 Weber T176 D300
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-08-2019, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Originally Posted by Rsb201 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Is it normal to have a gap in the split on the frame mounted new sway bar bushings ? I'm thinking it will soften up and will be able to be squeezed together .
Are you sure you ordered the correct size?? Jeep used 2 different sized bars. I found that out when I replaced all my front end parts. I ordered the wrong size and had a gap like you referenced above. As far as the hourglass bushings, you could always just replace the entire dog bone link.
I thought I did but it looks like I bought the smaller size bushing. I think the 2 piece bushings fir the endlinks worked good.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-08-2019, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
agear
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I had to order the prothane bushings to get the 15/16ths I needed.
Thank you . What kind of grease do you use for polyurethane to keep it from squeaking ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-08-2019, 09:21 AM
Spieg8
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Prothane sells grease too, that's what I use on all my greasable bushings.

When I was younger, I thought I was Don Quixote... turns out I'm just another donkey-hootie.
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-08-2019, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Prothane sells grease too, that's what I use on all my greasable bushings.
Perfect ! Thanx

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-10-2019, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
agear
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I went out there and checked to see if the 2 frame mount sway bar bushings had settled in some and they did. They're getting close to being closed up. I think with some lube and some more time on the bushings they will completely close . But that's gotta be a tight fit. Do you think it will be a problem with the sway bar moving like it does ? They might wear fast being so tight but I guess if they wear down the rubber enough it could end up a good fit. It depends how it wears. Does it rub away rubber or just soften it up ? I guess the issue is it will be wearing down fast while its settling in. Even though it's a tighter fit it may shorten the life of the bushings including the end link bushings. Not a big deal because I already ordered some that are the correct size . Are there any problems with using poly bushings fir the frame bracket and rubber fir the end links ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #12 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 07:26 PM
X-Army
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Prothane sells grease too, that's what I use on all my greasable bushings.
Same here. The Prothane kit I ordered from Amazon included all bushings, frame brackets, and a packet of their lube. My only gripe is that I had to widen the holes in the provided brackets, since my (factory) bolts were larger than their slots.

As for wearing down, I don't believe you'll see much of that with the poly bushings, especially if properly lubed. Having the gap in there is just an opening for dirt/sand to collect and act as an abrasive to break down your new bushings.

I can't imagine any issue with the link bushings being one material and the bar bushings being another, other than different longevity.
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-13-2019, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Army View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Prothane sells grease too, that's what I use on all my greasable bushings.
Same here. The Prothane kit I ordered from Amazon included all bushings, frame brackets, and a packet of their lube. My only gripe is that I had to widen the holes in the provided brackets, since my (factory) bolts were larger than their slots.

As for wearing down, I don't believe you'll see much of that with the poly bushings, especially if properly lubed. Having the gap in there is just an opening for dirt/sand to collect and act as an abrasive to break down your new bushings.

I can't imagine any issue with the link bushings being one material and the bar bushings being another, other than different longevity.
Okay thank you. I may just sand down the rubber ones I have and save the poly ones for later

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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