82 CJ7 Crank Seals - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-29-2020, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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82 CJ7 Crank Seals

I知 seeing a LOT of oil under my CJ7...SURPRISE!!!

I知 seeing oil from the front and rear crank seals... I知 mechanically inclined and already bought the seals and a new oil pan gasket. I generally know the job, the mess and the aggravation that comes with it. Looking for any advice, pointers, etc.

One question I do have is - anything special I need to know about installing the 2 piece seal with the trans still in the Jeep? I don稚 see a reason why not... want a sanity check though!


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post #2 of 12 Old 06-29-2020, 09:18 PM
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Before you do the seals, I gotta ask, is you PCV system operational?
Is there any way the crankcase can pressurize?
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-29-2020, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
Before you do the seals, I gotta ask, is you PCV system operational?
Is there any way the crankcase can pressurize?
Great question... I actually just went through a painful vacuum system rework and carb replacement which likely created a pressurized crankcase. It痴 all resolved now, but damage was likely done while I had things plugged and incorrectly routed.

What are you thinking? Love to hear your thoughts before diving into this project.

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post #4 of 12 Old 06-30-2020, 05:20 AM
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My thought was that you may have a pressurized condition in the crank case and the seals may be intact. The oil simply being forced out out the lips.

As for the seal replacement.

The front cover is pretty self explanatory.
Insure the seal surfaces are serviceable.



Insure the leak is the rear seal and not the valve cover gasket.
The biggest issue with the rear is patience.
Be sure not to nick the crank.
Don't allow the rear of the upper seal to peel off while installing.
Try to offset the upper and lower halves slightly.
Be sure to lube it prior to installation.
A tiny dab of sealant on the seal ends.

While the pan is off, be sure to clean the bottom and inspect the oil pick up screen to insure it is clear of debris.
You can drop a rod cap and take a look at the bearing.
Visually inspect the cam for wear.
A can of spray tack is handy for gasket work.

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post #5 of 12 Old 06-30-2020, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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With the PCV system and vacuum lines squared away, will the leaks stop on their own or is the damage done? I seem to recall that once oil is getting pushed out, the damage is done.

Thanks...

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post #6 of 12 Old 06-30-2020, 06:23 PM
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They should. It still depends on the conditions of the seals. Worst case scenario, you have to replace the seals anway.

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post #7 of 12 Old 06-30-2020, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
They should. It still depends on the conditions of the seals. Worst case scenario, you have to replace the seals anway.

The engine probably has 200k on it, so not a bad idea to replace them I guess...

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post #8 of 12 Old 06-30-2020, 07:59 PM
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hello

the only tool you really need is they tell you to make from a cotter pin. it is used to push one side of the seal that is in the block out of the groove it is in. then you slide the new one in its place. of course it sounds easier then done, but still not that bad. the front seal you will prob want to get the one with the ready sleeve that slides over the damper. that will give the seal a new surface to ride on. unfortunate there isnt anything to buy for the new rear seal to ride on.

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post #9 of 12 Old 07-01-2020, 09:20 PM
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If you are going in,

A High Volume oil pump is a great longevity addition for a 258, Last one I got was $112, I'm sure they are more now.

I don't have the # on hand, but the new style one piece oil pan gasket works really great compared to the old four piece.

My last diagram is something that many overlook as far as "fully sealing" the rear main.

Not trying to do it all at once, but if the timing cover is coming off, a "Cloyes" timing set is awesome to replace a ragged out set.

---JEEPFELLER
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MR. JEEP TIMING SET 139.jpg   MR. JEEP TIMING SET 134.jpg  
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Last edited by JEEPFELLER; 07-01-2020 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Pics posted out of sequence, changed ref. to them
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-01-2020, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPFELLER View Post
If you are going in,

A High Volume oil pump is a great longevity addition for a 258, Last one I got was $112, I'm sure they are more now.

I don't have the # on hand, but the new style one piece oil pan gasket works really great compared to the old four piece.

My last diagram is something that many overlook as far as "fully sealing" the rear main.

Not trying to do it all at once, but if the timing cover is coming off, a "Cloyes" timing set is awesome to replace a ragged out set.

---JEEPFELLER
Good call! I値l likely order one tonight

Thanks for the suggestion!

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post #11 of 12 Old 07-02-2020, 12:16 PM
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I may have missed another's suggestion.

But,

Be prepared to lift the engine maybe 2 inches higher than the frame (engine mounts) as the sticking out offset on the pan will not clear and fall free (like my '46 Willys 4 cylinder pan will!).

Whatever you do!

Don't jack up on the pan's skid plate at all, even using a board.

Otherwise you will be removing it again to weld up the leaking hole that got produced when the spot weld pushed on through!

I always insure every thing is unbolted and free from the bell housing forward. I use a 2x4 under the flat part of the bell housing to rest my bottle jack upon and cautiously watch the whole dead while I slowly jack it up.

You will be happy with the HV oil pump. I have stuck them in mine and for other's seemingly worn out engine.(oil pressure) always with happy results.

I rebuilt (actually built another) my 258 in '96. Took me a few months (time and funds) as I did what I could when I was able.

I was so comfortable and impressed with previous mid-life engine crisis HV oil pumps I went ahead and put one in my engine on the stand instead of a plain Jane stock one.

Cool thing was "Mr. Jeep" depends on me daily to drive him to my work and anywhere else he needs to go. After completing my super carefully constructed "almost" 99.5% stock engine (not slung together) My (late) Dad and I made the "careful" heart and new clutch transplant in his carport in five hours. "Mr Jeep" never even realized that he been down at all, his dependency on me was not interrupted.

It's now 2020, he is still my primary transportation, Oil pressure stays between 50 and 70 PSI still after 24 years. Personally, along with always implementing my OCD Mr. Jeep maintenance program, I believe that HV pump has kept him healthy this long.

I wish they had produced this one piece gasket and the removable 4 stud like temporary anchors back when I was doing my stuff (and everybody else's in a 100 radius). Everything held in place helps out so much as you install it.

I took some pics last summer when my friend replaced his engine, he was not "real big" on cleaning stuff like the outside of the oil pan. I had to really "ride" him as not to skimp on important stuff. I also talked him into swapping to a HV pump in his crate engine, even though it came with a stock one.

---JEEPFELLER
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-02-2020, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPFELLER View Post
I may have missed another's suggestion.

But,

Be prepared to lift the engine maybe 2 inches higher than the frame (engine mounts) as the sticking out offset on the pan will not clear and fall free (like my '46 Willys 4 cylinder pan will!).

Whatever you do!

Don't jack up on the pan's skid plate at all, even using a board.

Otherwise you will be removing it again to weld up the leaking hole that got produced when the spot weld pushed on through!

I always insure every thing is unbolted and free from the bell housing forward. I use a 2x4 under the flat part of the bell housing to rest my bottle jack upon and cautiously watch the whole dead while I slowly jack it up.

You will be happy with the HV oil pump. I have stuck them in mine and for other's seemingly worn out engine.(oil pressure) always with happy results.

I rebuilt (actually built another) my 258 in '96. Took me a few months (time and funds) as I did what I could when I was able.

I was so comfortable and impressed with previous mid-life engine crisis HV oil pumps I went ahead and put one in my engine on the stand instead of a plain Jane stock one.

Cool thing was "Mr. Jeep" depends on me daily to drive him to my work and anywhere else he needs to go. After completing my super carefully constructed "almost" 99.5% stock engine (not slung together) My (late) Dad and I made the "careful" heart and new clutch transplant in his carport in five hours. "Mr Jeep" never even realized that he been down at all, his dependency on me was not interrupted.

It's now 2020, he is still my primary transportation, Oil pressure stays between 50 and 70 PSI still after 24 years. Personally, along with always implementing my OCD Mr. Jeep maintenance program, I believe that HV pump has kept him healthy this long.

I wish they had produced this one piece gasket and the removable 4 stud like temporary anchors back when I was doing my stuff (and everybody else's in a 100 radius). Everything held in place helps out so much as you install it.

I took some pics last summer when my friend replaced his engine, he was not "real big" on cleaning stuff like the outside of the oil pan. I had to really "ride" him as not to skimp on important stuff. I also talked him into swapping to a HV pump in his crate engine, even though it came with a stock one.

---JEEPFELLER

Great suggestions!

I ordered a HV oil pump and pickup along with a new timing chain set today... I have a couple days of work ahead of me once I have everything.

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