79 CJ7 258 engine swap to 1981 model 258 No start - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 132 Old 04-25-2020, 10:26 AM
Dngrs1
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
In all your pictures, the choke plates are wide open. Do they close when you pump the throttle? They should.
In the video, the choke plates are nearly all the way closed but open fully as he pumps the throttle.


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post #62 of 132 Old 04-25-2020, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dngrs1 View Post
In the video, the choke plates are nearly all the way closed but open fully as he pumps the throttle.

That's part of his problem. The choke isn't operating properly, or it isn't adjusted correctly, or there is a linkage problem. It should take the choke 2-4 minutes to open completely after the engine starts.

That's also the problem with just connecting to a switched power source, instead of an oil pressure switch. The longer he cranks, the longer the choke has power to it, even though the engine isn't running If he cranks long enough, the choke will fully open before the engine starts.

I'm not fully convinced the choke is the only problem, here, but it's certainly not helping. I think the OP still has a timing problem, evidenced by the puffs of smoke thru his carb as he's cranking. That means an intake valve is open, when it shouldn't be.

I wish I were closer, and could help the OP in person. I bet we could get that engine running before we finished our first beer.

Matt


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post #63 of 132 Old 04-25-2020, 01:27 PM
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I agree that the choke is not the only problem, here. The engine should fire when starting fluid is squirted down the intake, at least for a moment. I don't know much about Weber carbs, so I can't really help, there.
Let's recap. Brand new Weber carb; plug wires are in the correct order; ignition timing set @ 0*, #1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke; distributor rotor @ #1 terminal; timing light lights on each plug wire when cranking BUT is the spark energy strong enough to light the fuel in the cylinder? Could the distributor be bad out of the box? Sumitt HEI, Hmmmmm. Also, if the valve timing was off wouldn't the compression readings be low? I mean 160-165 seems pretty good to me. Did the OP purchase the HEI or did it come with the engine?
Just my $.02
edit: I think somewhere the OP said he grounded one of the spark plugs and the spark was yellow, not blue.

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Last edited by Dngrs1; 04-25-2020 at 01:30 PM. Reason: added information
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post #64 of 132 Old 04-25-2020, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
LHFarm
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Here is a picture taken today right before an attempted start, key in the on position. I'm opening the choke by hand to spray in starter fluid.

Sooo,,,,I just read all the posts.

1. Boy do I wish you all were nearby. No doubt I have too many variables. I will try to shoot short videos where I can.
2. Tomorrow, I'm going to step through everything again
a. Going to pull the plugs and check the position of the distributor./#1TDC BTW, it came in the original box with the engine, so I don't know if it is "good."
b. I'll have my wife crank the engine and will check for spark on each plug via timing light - I have NOT done that in the past. I've only checked #1
c. I'll skip the fuel pump test, since I've changed the pump.
d. Will try to video choke operation. Cycling the throttle, with or without 12v at the choke results in the choke opening at full travel. Linkage issue?

Anything else I can video or take pictures of that you would like to see if you were here?

I really do appreciate all the help.
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258choke.jpg  

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post #65 of 132 Old 04-26-2020, 07:03 AM
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Most carbs will disengage the choke at full throttle. It's designed that way for starting a flooded engine.

You shouldn't be cycling the throttle while cranking. Pump it once, maybe twice, before starting. Make sure the choke is closed, then don't touch the throttle while cranking.

I think a re-check of the distributor phasing is a good idea.

Matt


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post #66 of 132 Old 04-26-2020, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dngrs1 View Post
The engine should fire when starting fluid is squirted down the intake, at least for a moment. I don't know much about Weber carbs, so I can't really help, there.
Agreed. Mine usually runs on a steady stream starter fluid for about 10-15 seconds while the mechanical fuel pump catches up getting the fuel line refilled after having sat so long. A couple of hand rotations of the engine to get the oil primed never seems to get the fuel line completely re-primed, after all.
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post #67 of 132 Old 04-27-2020, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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I rechecked the timing, then asked my wife to crank while I checked the spark with my timing light. Nothing. I put a spark tester in line and it did light. The timing light worked last week. I think this distributor is part of the problem.

I want to toss this distributor and start over. Can you recommend a new HEI and a source?

Barry
Lawson Hill Farm

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post #68 of 132 Old 04-27-2020, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by LHFarm View Post
I think this distributor is part of the problem.

I want to toss this distributor and start over. Can you recommend a new HEI and a source?
Can we assume the distributor came with the engine? I bought mine, several years ago, from an Ebay seller who was rebuilding GM HEI's and putting AMC gear on them. I will say basically you get what you pay for.
I'm sure there are a few, on here, that can recommend where NOT to buy from.

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post #69 of 132 Old 04-27-2020, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dngrs1 View Post
Can we assume the distributor came with the engine? I bought mine, several years ago, from an Ebay seller who was rebuilding GM HEI's and putting AMC gear on them. I will say basically you get what you pay for.
I'm sure there are a few, on here, that can recommend where NOT to buy from.
Yes the distributor was in the original box and came with the engine. As someone else here has said "New doesn't necessarily mean good.." and at this point I just want to stop wasting mine and everyone else's time guessing if this thing is working.

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post #70 of 132 Old 04-28-2020, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Hope I didn't ask the wrong question. I have some store credit with this company. Anyone know anything about this distributor?

https://www.morris4x4center.com/d-u-...i-40620bl.html

Thanks

Barry
Lawson Hill Farm

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post #71 of 132 Old 04-28-2020, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by LHFarm View Post
Hope I didn't ask the wrong question. I have some store credit with this company. Anyone know anything about this distributor?

https://www.morris4x4center.com/d-u-...i-40620bl.html

Thanks
Not much experience here and none recent, but I remember when I was looking for a new distributor for my CJ in the late-'90s, the HEI ones to get were those that were built from original GM distributors. I don't know how much this has changed.

I ultimately went with a Mallory. While nice, that Mallory kept blowing ignition modules (Unilite units.) I don't know how much they may have improved, if any, in the past 20 years.

Josh
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post #72 of 132 Old 04-28-2020, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHFarm View Post
Hope I didn't ask the wrong question. I have some store credit with this company. Anyone know anything about this distributor?

https://www.morris4x4center.com/d-u-...i-40620bl.html

Thanks
It's probably the best one you can buy for the 258.

DUI recurves the advance just for the 258.
Good company support.
You can't go wrong with that one.
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post #73 of 132 Old 05-11-2020, 02:11 PM
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Been a couple weeks. Any news? (Hope it's good)
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post #74 of 132 Old 05-11-2020, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered the D.U.I. distributor and it was DOA. I was freaked out since I couldn't get it to fire (spark) and assumed that I had been doing something wrong with the old distributor and was repeating it now. I purchased the new one from Summit and I contacted them to help me trouble shoot. They were very helpful and they came to the conclusion that something was wrong. They suggested an exchange. This was all early last week. The new distributor was to arrive on Thursday. It finally made it late today. I also ordered a relay to power the D.U.I. directly from the battery (per installation instructions). That too has gone missing and if it doesn't arrive by tomorrow, I'm to re-order.

Trying to be very careful and document everything (video) that I'm doing. I do appreciate your checking up on me. Hope to be back at it in a day or so.
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post #75 of 132 Old 05-11-2020, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHFarm View Post
I ordered the D.U.I. distributor and it was DOA. I was freaked out since I couldn't get it to fire (spark) and assumed that I had been doing something wrong with the old distributor and was repeating it now. I purchased the new one from Summit and I contacted them to help me trouble shoot. They were very helpful and they came to the conclusion that something was wrong. They suggested an exchange. This was all early last week. The new distributor was to arrive on Thursday. It finally made it late today. I also ordered a relay to power the D.U.I. directly from the battery (per installation instructions). That too has gone missing and if it doesn't arrive by tomorrow, I'm to re-order.

Trying to be very careful and document everything (video) that I'm doing. I do appreciate your checking up on me. Hope to be back at it in a day or so.
The D.U.I. was DOA?

If the replacement is also DOA, I would check to see if the rotor is turning.

There is not that much that can go wrong...
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