76 CJ5- Gfrench Restoration Project - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
gfrench
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Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
Fantastic stance!

I don't recall; do you have a color chosen?

Hoss
Yeah that has been driving me crazy for some time... First Red then White and then thinking Green etc...

Then I saw the Ford 150 Bronze Fire and dang with the Spice Interior- would be really sharp!



Will be attempting to do my own painting so pretty sure I will be using a single stage paint and will see how close I can come to the color with a little metallic.

At this point still thinking the Golden Eagle decal kit just due to the colors in this decal and would look great against the Bronze Fire color and spice interior but would prefer the Renegade decal as it is more appropriate but just not sure about all the Gold color.... we will see where that goes... open to suggestions on this selection for sure... either one I think would look pretty good against the Bronze fire color for sure.







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post #32 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Your hood fits better on your Repli-Tub than it does on mine. Nice work!

Are you using the dash that came with the new tub or your original one? Reason I ask, the Repli-Tub version mounting holes in the tub do not quite line up with OEM dash holes. I had to actually fill the Repli-Tubs holes in and re-drill and spot weld in new Offset-Barrel Narrow-Base Weld Nuts in place like the factory had them. Maybe they have improved the alignment on later Repli-Tubs.
Yeah agree generally speaking all the after market body parts come together pretty well... but I am a bit disappointed in the sturdiness/thickness of the hood... but it will work fine.

Had some issues on the lower back passenger side of the hood as it was rubbing and locking against the inside drip rail on the body.. so just worked the edge down on the hood with a little reforming and taking some material off and now opens and closes smooth.

I am fighting some gap issues with the hood... I have decided to not go with the factory 4 Rubber Pads on top of the grill as you will see that open gap between the grill and front of hood- will be difficult to make it look even so will be using an adhesive black Rubber strip that will help force the hood to rest evenally on the top of grill and close up that gap nicely.

I will need to figure out the thickness to add some nice cushion to the hood and still maintain proper gap along the top of fenders...



Still have some tweaking to do for sure... have the new Hood latches ordered and once they come in will see how it pulls the hood in place. Using Kentrol products for all the hardware on the hood- hinges- latches etc- really like the quality.

For the Dash panel... I will be using the Repli one that came with the new body... my old one is OK but only had the one speaker grill cut out and this one has both... I will need to cut the hole for the factory Tach (where you see the round marking) but other then that should work great.. love the steel glove box these tubs come with vs the cheap plastic aftermarket one.


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post #33 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 08:51 AM
keith460
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At least your dash came with all the cutouts needed to fit OEM gauges, lights and switches. Mine did not, only speaker grills were punched out and now that dash panel is in storage.

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post #34 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 01:23 PM
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Thata some great work your doing
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its a rusty one

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
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post #35 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 04:36 PM
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Got to ask, have you mock fitted the heater system into the tub yet? I found that the fresh air intake on top of the cowl was off a 1/4" from center on the Repli-Tub I have and had to offset the the fan motor for installation of the popular Chevy Blazer motor. Make sure you check that before committing to paint.


Also, I noticed you don't have the windshield washer hole yet in the top of the cowl. Dimensions are below in the pic.
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WiperWasher Hole (1).jpg  

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post #36 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Have not got that far yet... I do have my heater box disassembled and now cleaned, painted and ready to go back together... (waiting for a cold snowy Colorado day to get it done in the warm shop)!

From my measurements it appears my cowl opening is centered... and the firewall seems to be drill right... we will see...



Thank you for the detail on the washer nozzle- this will help me confirm what I am seeing on my old tub as I kept it for reference.

I am concerned thou... on the Repli tub there is no lip at the bottom of the opening to secure the vent cover?? not sure on my work around with this.... any ideas?

Thinking I may need to slowly bend the metal up to at least hold it from just falling thru the hole.





Here is the old/original tub-


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post #37 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by gfrench View Post
Have not got that far yet... I do have my heater box disassembled and now cleaned, painted and ready to go back together... (waiting for a cold snowy Colorado day to get it done in the warm shop)! <img src="https://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg" />

From my measurements it appears my cowl opening is centered... and the firewall seems to be drill right... we will see...



Thank you for the detail on the washer nozzle- this will help me confirm what I am seeing on my old tub as I kept it for reference.

I am concerned thou... on the Repli tub there is no lip at the bottom of the opening to secure the vent cover?? not sure on my work around with this.... any ideas?

Thinking I may need to slowly bend the metal up to at least hold it from just falling thru the hole.





Here is the old/original tub-

The screws are outboard of the holes right so it should just screw down ....... ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #38 of 55 Old 10-13-2019, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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The screws are outboard of the holes right so it should just screw down ....... ?
Not really...there is a lip at the bottom of the opening on the original body that the grill screws into... the Repli tub does not have that flange/lip just an open hole that is a perfect sized opening for the stock vent cover to flush mount... just nothing to hold it in place/screw to and will fall thru.






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post #39 of 55 Old 10-14-2019, 03:02 AM
agear
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
The screws are outboard of the holes right so it should just screw down ....... ?
Not really...there is a lip at the bottom of the opening on the original body that the grill screws into... the Repli tub does not have that flange/lip just an open hole that is a perfect sized opening for the stock vent cover to flush mount... just nothing to hold it in place/screw to and will fall thru.





Damn

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #40 of 55 Old 10-14-2019, 05:41 AM
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That looks like the design they used on the later CJ's but it wont work with the older heater box I think.


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post #41 of 55 Old 10-14-2019, 07:26 AM
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76 CJ5- Gfrench Restoration Project

I have not seen a Repli-tub that has the recessed lip on the earlier bodies. MD Juan, the makers of the tub, seem to always have a problem getting both the fresh air intake and transmission tunnel openings corrected for any given year. You may need to acquire a later model heater/defrost system since the tub and possibly the new windshield frame is made for it. But then again, I see that your tub is setup for the earlier heat/defrost system.
I had to drill and countersink holes to attach the fresh air grill and air plenum to the tub cowl on my Repli-tub.


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post #42 of 55 Old 10-14-2019, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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That looks like the design they used on the later CJ's but it wont work with the older heater box I think.
Yeah that is my guess as well.... so seems my best solution here is to get that lip put in place on the new repli tub and screw everything together like it would have been on the factory body.

So have two choices... cut a ring out of sheet metal and weld it in place at bottom of the current opening... or maybe cut out the original one and fit that underneath and weld in place.

This why you ALWAYS mock things up first 100% and NEVER throw out you old tub until the new one is matched up perfect!

Can you imagine if you had a fresh new paint job and then realize this...









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post #43 of 55 Old 10-14-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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The more I analyze this- thinking it will be best/ cleanest to just cut it out of the old tub leaving extra material all around the actual form and tac weld in place trimming and or shaving things on the repli tub to allow the grill to just set into the opening like it should and flush mount.

all of the welds would be underneath the cowl so nothing visible.

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post #44 of 55 Old 10-14-2019, 11:31 AM
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I like the idea using the old on and tacking it in place.
You could always put in a thicker gasket to raise the grill to the correct level.
Make sure you think about water incursion in that area.

Just make sure he leave enough room to the washer nozzle.

I put an 84 heater system in my 76 but it wasn't easy and I had 1/2 an 84 tub to make measurements.

The heater and defrosting is much better than the original one I had.
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post #45 of 55 Old 10-14-2019, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
I like the idea using the old on and tacking it in place.
You could always put in a thicker gasket to raise the grill to the correct level.
Make sure you think about water incursion in that area.

Just make sure he leave enough room to the washer nozzle.

I put an 84 heater system in my 76 but it wasn't easy and I had 1/2 an 84 tub to make measurements.

The heater and defrosting is much better than the original one I had.

Excellent- thanks John for you thoughts and suggestions around this... yeah I think a nice rubber gasket to not only adjust needed height but to make a nice tight seal.

I'm pretty sure I would also put a small bead of sealant around the top edge of the grill as I set it into the opening.and screw it down to the flange and the new airbox.


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