4.2L Team Rush IGN Mod mistake - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 10-10-2020, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
Mohr68
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4.2L Team Rush IGN Mod mistake

So I got all excited when I installed the Ford F-150 300-6cyl distributor, adapter, rotor, and wire set on my ‘81 CJ7 258 6 cyl. Drove it and it seemed to have better take off pep with the additional ignition advance subject mod provides. Here’s where I screwed up... I skipped ahead to the part where Team Rush says to increase the plug gap to .045” but I did it without the MSD high voltage coil and module. The bigger gap was the only change I made after a successful test drive with the Ford dist parts... so I’m assuming the larger gap killed my module because I now have no spark even after re-gapping down to .033”. Then replaced the coil with new OEM coil. Still no spark. I can’t locate a new module that has the correct 9-wire square plug. ALl the new CJ modules have a Round Ford 4 or 5-wire plug. What happened to my module??? Do I have a junkyard modified module from some odd year model? Or is mine correct and just obsolete on the parts market??

Please help this hapless fool or whatever you want to call me.

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post #2 of 14 Old 10-10-2020, 10:03 PM
BagusJeep
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The Motorcraft module had two plugs, a 2 way and a 4 way.

Perhaps you should post up a photo of what you have.

I doubt the plug gaps killed the module but there is a test procedure. Confirm you have a Motorcaft Duraspark module first.
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post #3 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 05:41 AM
John Strenk
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I couldnít find any tfi modules with 9 pin connectors.

A picture will help.

Did you really put in a Ford 300 distributor or just the adapter and larger cap?


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post #4 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 06:16 AM
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Unlikely the wrong gap would kill a module.

Have you checked the primary signal to the coil?

(probably unrelated, but I installed MSD wires a couple of years ago with the standard module/coil. Had major wet weather starting issues. Went back to conventional resistance wires and no more trouble)

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post #5 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for taking a look. I should clarify to John that I just changed the dist cap, adapter, rotor, and wires, not the distributor. I left cap out of my post. Heres two pics of the module on the fender well and the harness plug. Kinda ugly I know but I lost spark before I unplugged this very ugly looking connection. I’ll try to clean it up before reconnecting. Any help identifying this module is appreciated. It only has the one 9-wire pigtail coming out of it.
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post #6 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 08:17 AM
John Strenk
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Thatís not the ICM.

Thatís the idle control module

The ICM is on the driver side fender


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post #7 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 08:25 AM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

that looks like a old prestolite ignition module that was used before the motorcraft ignition. but never seen that many wires on one. also they stopped using in 77. ? does your distributor have a large plastic piece that the vacuum hose hooks to. if so that is a prestolite distrib also. they didnt keep them long because they weren't that reliable. what you are going to need to do is change to a motorcraft distrib and box or put a hei distributor in.

oldschool
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post #8 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 09:22 AM
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Do yourself a big favor. Bite the bullet and install a MSD 6A ignition system. It has double sparks below 3000 rpm and will fire just about any spark plug gap.

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post #9 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool74cj5 View Post
hello

that looks like a old prestolite ignition module that was used before the motorcraft ignition. but never seen that many wires on one. also they stopped using in 77. ? does your distributor have a large plastic piece that the vacuum hose hooks to. if so that is a prestolite distrib also. they didnt keep them long because they weren't that reliable. what you are going to need to do is change to a motorcraft distrib and box or put a hei distributor in.

oldschool
Trust me, itís the idle control module.
As you said the prestolight has much fewer wires.


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post #10 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 03:36 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

that is why i never saw that many wires on a prestolite. just had the very simular box and mounting of it. my only 2 cj's made after 80 had the emissions neutered before i bought them. you can still get the motorcraft made ignition module for duraspark. i bought one on amazon and it been working great. just get the one with the wires coming thru the blue block.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-DY.../dp/B000EQ82UK.

i just wish they sold the all of the connectors including the one for the distributor. the P.O. of the cj7 i have now actually took out all of the connectors and spliced the wires. so i cut the splices out and installed aftermarket ford style for the module. i do carry a spare module i have hade for over 20 years and never used. then installed a weatherpak 2 pin for the distributor pickup and put the ground(black wire) to a bolt pad on the side of the block. that way i have a good ground. not relying on the distributor housing for the ground to the block. for the coil i cutoff the original coil connector and installed ring terminals. im using a 40,000 1.5 ohm flame thrower from pertronix. running at .045 gap on plain jane copper champion plugs. they have always treated me well.

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post #11 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
Mohr68
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So that’s an ICM, but it’s not The ICM I’m looking for... sounds like a Jedi mind trick. Who’d believe it takes 9 wires to control the Idle? I’ll be dang John the real ICM is hiding under the antifreeze reservoir probably right where it was planted on the assembly line, AND I see it has two Ford plugs just like it should. One mystery solved! Well that’s should make it easier to replace but do you guys think it’ll fix the sudden no-spark issue? I heard some doubt the .045” gap on the existing Champions would kill the ICM. With the new coil, is there anything else it could be? I like the MSD 6A idea too. Thanks all for your help. I’d be pulling my hair out by now without it. bet I wouldn’t have noticed that ICM hiding over there yet either. A new ICM won’t hurt the wallet that bad and I’ll get some new plugs while I’m at it... and see how big the bullet is to bite for that MSD. Take care all. Will let you know how it goes.
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post #12 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 07:32 PM
John Strenk
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Iíve just been running a Ford TFI coil for 5 years now with the plugs gapped at .045 with no problem.

I canít think how running that gap will cause the ICM to fail.
Fastest way to kill the ICM is to leave the ignition on without the engine running.


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post #13 of 14 Old 10-11-2020, 08:02 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello
not that i am a gm hei kind of person. that is one of the cheapest and easiest ways to go. the coil and module are in the distrib so really not much for wires going to it. i think there is only a power and tach wire that goes to the distrib. but you want the power to be 12v battery power running through a relay. when you turn on the key it engages the relay and send battery voltage to the distributor.

oldschool
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post #14 of 14 Old 10-16-2020, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
Mohr68
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Happy ending to this story is a new ICM (stock) fixed my spark issue. Assuming the .045 gap must’ve enough of a strain to push the old ICM over the edge... thanks everyone for you help and suggestions. Next job is to get my proportioning valve moved back to center since it’s cutting off flow the back brakes... but that’s another thread... unless you have any good tips?
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