360 Swap - Prep and other what not Questions - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 04-04-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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360 Swap - Prep and other what not Questions

Just purchased a good running AMC 360 with 70K on it out of a J20. It looks like it has a motorcraft 2BBl carb which I can swap out to my good running 2150 on my 258. Need to pull the engine and start the prep of cleaning and painting of the engine and cleaning up the engine bay over the next few months. I have lots of questions so here goes….By the way, this will be in my 84 CJ7 with a 258 and TF999 Transmission. This is a street jeep that rarely goes off road. I will be reusing my rebuilt TF999.

1. The engine in stock form is all the power I want. With its low mileage I don’t see the need to open her up. I really don’t have those skills either. I only put a few thousand miles on the CJ each year so this engine should last me a long time before needing any attention. I will want to address a few areas but want you folks thoughts on more maintenance items while the engine is out on a stand. Would you put anything in the oil or intake to “clean her out” while she is in running shape before I drain the oil, remove from the J20 she lives in now and bring the engine inside?
2. As far as gaskets, I will replace the valve cover gaskets for certain. Would it be smart to replace the intake gasket? When I remove the engine I will certainly address any concerns / leaks I come across. Any others gaskets to change out? Oil Pan?
3. Assuming it would be wise to replace the water pump and inspect the timing chain? True? Anything else to replace?
4. Will install a new HEI distributor in an effort to remove the ignition module and computer stuff in the engine bay. Any issues with gears on the HEI aftermarket distributors that I have heard about on the 258?
5. Cooling – I am not going to louver the hood or fenders, so will I be able to cool the 360 (The 360 does have a 7 blade fan with clutch) with my existing radiator (2 years old) from my 258 or do I need a new one? Custom or is there a Stock radiator for say a 304 that will work?
6. Engine Bay – One of the things that has made my jeep last this long is that it was coated very early on in its life with a kind of rubbery black coating inside the engine bay. It covers my firewall and inside the fenders. Anyone deal with this before? Should I touch this stuff up to cover the areas where the coating has been scraped off or looks ugly or do I take on the bigger project of removing it somehow and spraying it to its original Olympic white? What should I use if touching it up?


Scott
86 CJ7 Laredo
84 CJ7 Renegade
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post #2 of 27 Old 04-04-2019, 10:52 PM
kd7oir
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyDive View Post
Just purchased a good running AMC 360 with 70K on it out of a J20. It looks like it has a motorcraft 2BBl carb which I can swap out to my good running 2150 on my 258. Need to pull the engine and start the prep of cleaning and painting of the engine and cleaning up the engine bay over the next few months. I have lots of questions so here goes….By the way, this will be in my 84 CJ7 with a 258 and TF999 Transmission. This is a street jeep that rarely goes off road. I will be reusing my rebuilt TF999.

1. The engine in stock form is all the power I want. With its low mileage I don’t see the need to open her up. I really don’t have those skills either. I only put a few thousand miles on the CJ each year so this engine should last me a long time before needing any attention. I will want to address a few areas but want you folks thoughts on more maintenance items while the engine is out on a stand. Would you put anything in the oil or intake to “clean her out” while she is in running shape before I drain the oil, remove from the J20 she lives in now and bring the engine inside?
2. As far as gaskets, I will replace the valve cover gaskets for certain. Would it be smart to replace the intake gasket? When I remove the engine I will certainly address any concerns / leaks I come across. Any others gaskets to change out? Oil Pan?
3. Assuming it would be wise to replace the water pump and inspect the timing chain? True? Anything else to replace?
4. Will install a new HEI distributor in an effort to remove the ignition module and computer stuff in the engine bay. Any issues with gears on the HEI aftermarket distributors that I have heard about on the 258?
5. Cooling – I am not going to louver the hood or fenders, so will I be able to cool the 360 (The 360 does have a 7 blade fan with clutch) with my existing radiator (2 years old) from my 258 or do I need a new one? Custom or is there a Stock radiator for say a 304 that will work?
6. Engine Bay – One of the things that has made my jeep last this long is that it was coated very early on in its life with a kind of rubbery black coating inside the engine bay. It covers my firewall and inside the fenders. Anyone deal with this before? Should I touch this stuff up to cover the areas where the coating has been scraped off or looks ugly or do I take on the bigger project of removing it somehow and spraying it to its original Olympic white? What should I use if touching it up?
I don't have the answers to all your questions but gaskets are cheap. Replace anything you can. Replace the front end rear main. Check your water pump and thermostat. If you change the oil pan gasket (I would) it wouldn't hurt to put a new oil pump in and clean the oil pick up. If you live in a cold climate a block heater is nice and now would be a good time to put one in. Check all your freeze plugs and replace them all if even one is questionable.
While it's running I'd for compression check and maybe run some fuel additive through. Take lots of pictures unhooking everything and during disassembly. It really helps putting it back together. Plus we would like to see your progress.
Good luck and looking forward to seeing more
Shawn
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post #3 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 07:27 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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1. If it's running well, I wouldn't put any snake oils in it before pulling it.

2. I'd do valve cover, oil pan, and t-stat gaskets. The intake gasket is actually a valley pan. I wouldn't mess with that one, unless there is an obvious problem.

3. Yes, I'd inspect the timing chain, water pump, and oil pump.

4. The AMC V8s are the most susceptible to the HEI hardened gear problem. I'd buy a matched set of gears for safe measure.

5. Your existing radiator should be adequate. I'd recommend a fan shroud, if you don't already have one.

6. That one is your call.

Matt


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post #4 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 07:38 AM
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And while you're at it, I'd replace the rear main seal. It's a lot easier chore to do on an engine stand.

Matt


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post #5 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 08:08 AM
skizriz
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Valve seals... I replaced all gaskets, and the other things mentioned above on mine. Wished I had done the valve seals as it puffs blue smoke on startup.
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post #6 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 09:04 AM
kd7oir
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
And while you're at it, I'd replace the rear main seal. It's a lot easier chore to do on an engine stand.

Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
Valve seals... I replaced all gaskets, and the other things mentioned above on mine. Wished I had done the valve seals as it puffs blue smoke on startup.
I'll second them both
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post #7 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 09:45 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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While I agree valve seals would be a good idea, it's not the easiest of chores unless you have a quality spring compressor.

DO NOT buy one like the image below. I made that mistake, and my hands were sore for a week after removing the springs on my 360.

Matt
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post #8 of 27 Old 04-06-2019, 06:54 AM
Mhugisr
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I'll second everything Matt says. His threads have been a HUGE help on my 360.
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post #9 of 27 Old 04-06-2019, 09:23 AM
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Being on the east coast, I would take a hard look at your soft plugs.


Personally (assuming you have seen and heard it run), unless it has some obvious issues, I would be tempted to drop it in as is. I've found that sometimes replacing things "just because it's out" can lead to causing issues that you thought you would be eliminating.

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post #10 of 27 Old 04-06-2019, 06:51 PM
kirbot
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Surprised nobody mentioned this, but the 2150 on your 258 is smaller than the one on the 360. You can't just re-jet it and make it work either.

Better to rebuild the correct one, or take the opportunity to swap it and the intake out for a 4 barrel.
John Strenk and Matt1981CJ7 like this.

AMC 360, 4 barrel, aluminum intake, headers
T18, Dana 300, OME springs, Fox shocks, 32" Kendas
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post #11 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 01:34 AM
82JeepCJ7
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Takes less than 10min to swap the original distributor gear onto the HEI unit.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #12 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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Thanks guys and sorry I haven't chimed in until now. I got a little superstitious and didn't want to engage in the comments since I made the purchase but had not picked up the truck until this morning. the J10 was too wide to fit on my trailer, so had to call AAA and have it flat bedded to my house. Its here. its runs, its drives, it barely stops, it has lots of holes on the truck! I confirmed the Vin and its a 79 J10 with 360 2bbl. I looked at the carb and it has the 1.08 venturing stamped on the side...isnt that the same as the 258????

Anyway, when I get passed some of these house projects, I will pull the engine, and start cleaning her up and making her tight and pretty again. It is said often here, but really appreciate the wisdom and experience we all share. - Matt - would that valve spring compressor work if I welded a socket to the handle and tighten up using a ratchet?

Its funny - I replaced the water pum and radiator in my 258 2 years ago but couldn't for the life of me remember if it had a fan shroud but it does. It also has the 7 blade fan so cooling should be ok.


Anyone have any experience with the rubberized coating I have on the firewall and fendors of the CJ? Although its black it does hide a lot fo the sins that are in there, and it would be great if I could just top dress it. That would save a lot of labor and who know what I will find underneath it.

Scott
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post #13 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 10:29 AM
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Scott,

I'm pretty sure the 360's came with the 2100 with 1.21 venturis. The 304 had the 1.08. The 258 never came with a 2100 carb from the factory, but the 1.08 version is a common swap for the factory Carter BBD.

Don't even waste your time with the cheap valve spring compressor I purchased. Get one like the pic below, or take the heads to a machine shop and let them replace the valve seals. They will have a pneumatic tool that makes short work of it.

Matt
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post #14 of 27 Old 04-08-2019, 07:01 PM
kirbot
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Yeah I could have sworn they came with bigger carbs than that.
The 1.08 is only rated to flow 287cfm which is shockingly little for a motor that size

I have a 4 barrel, 600cfm on mine, though it does have a few other upgrades

AMC 360, 4 barrel, aluminum intake, headers
T18, Dana 300, OME springs, Fox shocks, 32" Kendas
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post #15 of 27 Old 04-09-2019, 04:42 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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Will have to figure out the carb solution. What is really bothering me is the guy I bought the truck from...second owner with 70K on it and I truly believe that to be true because he never registered it and the title he got from the original owner had the actually mileage written on it. Anyway, I decoded the tag on the valve covers, which was on the drivers side facing the firewall, so I know they have been off at some point, tells me the engine is a 1973 360. So, the whole reason of buying this engine with history and low mileage is out the window now. A little pissed as to why an engine swap occurred on such a low mileage jeep

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Scott
86 CJ7 Laredo
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