From 258/TF999 to 360/TF999 using a 360/TH400 Donor Questions - JeepForum.com
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By RiverandSand
  • 1 Post By skizriz
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 12 Old 04-20-2019, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Killingworth
Posts: 494
From 258/TF999 to 360/TF999 using a 360/TH400 Donor Questions

This project will take me awhile to complete and will tackle this is phases. I have never done a swap, but very handy so still learning what all the parts are...like Adapter rings, and flex plates and internal vs externally balanced. I am sure this will make a lot more sense once I get under the J10, but so far I am just hitting the search buttons. Once this engine is out of the donor, I would like to get rid of the carcass but don't want to be burned that I didn't pull something on the tranny side that I will need 4 months later into the project. I have a 84 CJ7 with 258/TF999 replacing the 258 with the 360 from an J10 with a TH400.

So Phase 1 is to remove the 360 from the J10 I purchased. Its mated to an Auto TH400. I will take just the engine and it will replace my 258 and sit in front of the TF999. We dont have smog regulations here, so I want to install this engine with the minimal amount of vacuum lines and wiring. Voltage, Oil, Temp, stock Tach, HEI or Team rush for an ignition.

I am confused on what I need to remove from the donor and what I need to keep from my 258/TF999 and what will just bolt right up.
So, ...well...What should I remove besides the engine?
Should I remove the engine and tranny together or just the engine?
Adapter Ring? is there one? If there is, do I keep the one from the TF999 or use the TH400?
Flex Plate - Same question....Which one do I use?
Will I reuse the automatic shift linkage from the CJ or do I adapt the linkage from the TH400?
What else?


Phase 2 - will be cleaning up the engine, new or rebuilt carburation, ignition upgrade, gaskets, timing chain, water pump, replacing the consumables, painting etc

Phase 3 - Will be removing the 258, removing EVERYTHING I can including excessive vacuum lines and wiring. Cleaning up the engine bay, painting parts of the frame and other items where I can etc.

Phase 4 - Installing the 360

Phase 5 - Begging for help if I cant get it to work!


Scott
84 CJ7 258 Auto 2150 TFI nuttered 3" Rky Rd lift 33s
70 Jeepster 225 HEI 3spd 2" Alcan lift
scottyDive is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 04-20-2019, 08:31 AM
RiverandSand
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Yuma
Posts: 58
Garage
First off I would keep 360 and TH400 together, meaning you can take them out separately but put them in your jeep. That way you don't have to mess with flexplates. However either trans will bolt up without an issue. Was the J10 4x4? If not you have a decision to make, covert the TH400 to accept your dana 300 or use your Torque Flight and get a flexplate. Obviously cost could be a factor, flexplates are cheaper than adapters. If it was 4x4, what transfer case did the J10 have, if it's a 300 your good to go, if not then an adapter is needed.
I would pull the engine side wiring harness from the J10 just to have it if needed for connectors. I'd go HEI only one wire is needed +12vdc, you can ditch all the other uneeded wiring.
RiverandSand is offline  
post #3 of 12 Old 04-20-2019, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Killingworth
Posts: 494
River....The reading I have done says the TF999 is all I will need and it was recently rebuilt....well...over 10 years ago but sat for a long time...it might have 15K on the rebuild. This is the time for folks to convince me to go with the TH400 though. if I went that route, I need to be sure that its also a bolt in - I am trying to keep this CJ relatively unmodified...I know I know....

Anyway, I believe the J10 Donor has Quadratrac in it. There is a shift lever under the seat. Its raining cats and dogs here but here are a couple of images in case that helps anyone ID the transfer case,.

Scott
84 CJ7 258 Auto 2150 TFI nuttered 3" Rky Rd lift 33s
70 Jeepster 225 HEI 3spd 2" Alcan lift
scottyDive is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 Old 04-20-2019, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Killingworth
Posts: 494
Photos

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Scott
84 CJ7 258 Auto 2150 TFI nuttered 3" Rky Rd lift 33s
70 Jeepster 225 HEI 3spd 2" Alcan lift
scottyDive is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 04-20-2019, 11:02 AM
RiverandSand
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Yuma
Posts: 58
Garage
I'm not really up on FJs so, I'm not sure on the TC but it's not a D300. So you will need an adapter, if you use the 400. Sitting is the enemy of almost anything with moving parts and auto trannies or not immuned. Your TF has been down for quite sometime, I would atleast drop the pan and change fluid/filter, check for metal in the pan. Also pull the torque converter drain it and refill/w new fluid. Your plan to use your TF is doable and the most cost effective, you maybe able to get away using the same drivelines.
Novak conversions is a good site for parts and info on swaps.
Tom oljeep collins is a good site for all things FJs.
Cutlass327 likes this.
RiverandSand is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 04-20-2019, 11:10 AM
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Beach City
Posts: 6,423
That's not the D300 or a D20, and the offset rear output tells me it is a Quadratrac.



One thing to note. Auto transmissions that have sat for a long time may not be happy to just fire up and go. The clutches dry out from sitting still. I do not know the best approach, but maybe overfilling the trans with as much fluid as you can to get it into the clutches and letting it set for a few days may be a smart idea. This would resoak the fiber materials.



A story for my basis of this thought... A friend had a 79 Trans AM that he parked in 84. He filled the engine until it came out of the valve covers with oil after he backed it into the garage. Fast forward to 2005, we drained the oil and water out (it still had condensation water in it (about half gallon!), and pulled the plugs. New oil, filter, gas, points, condenser, carb rebuild, it fired right up. Put it in gear, and it didn't move an inch under power, just slipped and coasted a little. He didn't fill the transmission to protect it. We never got any further on it, as my then wife and I moved away so I couldn't help with it any more. But knowing that when you rebuild a auto, you are supposed to soak the fiber clutches in trans fluid before installing them, and that they dry from sitting...

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Cutlass327 is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old 04-20-2019, 04:39 PM
skizriz
Registered User
 
skizriz's Avatar
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Scottdale
Posts: 5,981
All you need is the engine. At most, you will need a flex plate, and possibly pilot bushing. I'd replace the flex plate whether you need to or not, sucks when you have to do it later due to it being old and cracked.

Didn't the grand wagoneers use the 360/999/300 setup in the mid 80's???
skizriz is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 04-21-2019, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Killingworth
Posts: 494
So flex plates wear out? Are there different qualities / manufacturers that are recommended?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Scott
84 CJ7 258 Auto 2150 TFI nuttered 3" Rky Rd lift 33s
70 Jeepster 225 HEI 3spd 2" Alcan lift
scottyDive is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 04-21-2019, 06:07 AM
skizriz
Registered User
 
skizriz's Avatar
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Scottdale
Posts: 5,981
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyDive View Post
So flex plates wear out? Are there different qualities / manufacturers that are recommended?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I changed one on mine that had worn teeth, and the starter would occasionally just spin when it landed on that spot.
Changed one due to cracking around the mounting holes.

Cheap insurance to do it now. It's just a matter of which one to use.
Cutlass327 likes this.
skizriz is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old 04-25-2019, 10:36 PM
chris989604
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Eagle
Posts: 495
Scotty,

One thing i know for sure,,,,every amc flex/flywheel is weighted different (304,360,401) The kicker is,, everyone sells just one flexplate for AMC as if they are all the same.

My 360 was in front of a 400t. My 304 was in front of a 904. My machine shop spun the 360, got the information, then balanced my 904 to match so i could use mu Hughes Convertor.

Or,, if you are buying a new converter, you can have them weld the bosses on the converter to match your 400t flex plate.

Chris
chris989604 is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old 04-28-2019, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Killingworth
Posts: 494
Really confused here....do I use the flex plate from my 258 or do I use the flex plate from the 360? Or do I purchase brand new?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Scott
84 CJ7 258 Auto 2150 TFI nuttered 3" Rky Rd lift 33s
70 Jeepster 225 HEI 3spd 2" Alcan lift
scottyDive is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 04-28-2019, 07:46 AM
chris989604
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Eagle
Posts: 495
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyDive View Post
Really confused here....do I use the flex plate from my 258 or do I use the flex plate from the 360? Or do I purchase brand new?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I do not know a lot about 6 cyl, but i know non of the V-8s are balanced the same even though they will bolt up.

if you are going to run the 360,, you will need the flexplate that matches the 360. The issue will be the 360 flex plat will have bolt holes that line up the the 400t converter. I am not sure if they are in the same location as your current set up.

you will need to have either:

a-New hole drilled (preferable by a machine shop)
b-new bosses weld correctly to the converter (easy to do if ordering a new converter,,, the route i took)
c-run the 400T.


If you PM me your phone number,,, I can give you a call.

Chris
chris989604 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome