1985 CJ-7 “Time Traveler” journey continues - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 76 Old 07-29-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
Axhammer
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I scored a 4.0 rebuilder for a stroker build. It’s a 1993 block with a 1996 head. It came with most parts & accessories needed, and the rest are on the way, like a 258 crankshaft. The first step will be to disassemble it for cleaning & inspection.

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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #47 of 76 Old 07-29-2019, 08:57 PM
MetalMountainGoat
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This thing is moving right a long. Gonna be pretty sweet with that stroker in. I've seen plenty of people go the stroker route, but I have never heard anyone say for sure how powerful/torquey it is when finished?
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post #48 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
Axhammer
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I took the plastic tote box out of the back.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #49 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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Less weight being carried around needlessly
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #50 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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I bought 8 1” x 5/16” bolts & flat washers to install my hardtop. Last time I tried the OEM style bolts were to short,
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #51 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:24 AM
whollsee
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Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
I took the plastic tote box out of the back.
Previously owned by a proud Welshman!

When ever I hear the word 'Jeep' I reach for my wallet.
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post #52 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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I installed the hard top with he new hardware, and drilled five new holes in the windshield frame so I could install the five screws
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #53 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
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I also removed the front bumper mounted tow bar assembly, more dead weight removed. My Jeep was towed behind an RV in its early life. The weight of the tow bar and tote box (half full of junk), should be close to that of the hard top

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #54 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:37 AM Thread Starter
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Front view
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #55 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:39 AM Thread Starter
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I removed the rusty liftgate, so it’s completely doorless today
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #56 of 76 Old 08-01-2019, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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My Jeep has several stickers on it, maybe I’ll get a picture of each to document them, since they will eventually be gone after I repaint it.

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #57 of 76 Old 08-02-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up a mid seventies Wagoneer Dana 44 axle assembly today for $50. Things are starting to fall together for my Jeep. I talked to my local machine shop about my engine needs, and they are ready to do it, and have done several of these 4.0 stroker engines. My EB 9”’is with my chassis guy, and said it’ll be a couple weeks until he gets to it. Now I have my new front axle. I need to get that 4.0 tote down tomorrow. Then maybe the Dana 44 Sunday.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #58 of 76 Old 08-03-2019, 07:30 AM
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1985 CJ-7 “Time Traveler” journey continues

So, how wide are the 44 and the 9” (e. g. wms to wms)?

86 CJ-7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300, Dana 30, AMC 20
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post #59 of 76 Old 08-03-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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So, how wide are the 44 and the 9” (e. g. wms to wms)?

Early Bronco (EB) 9” rear axle assembly is 58” WMS to WMS. The Wagoneer Dana 44 is about 62” as it sits in the back of my truck. I will cut the drivers (tube) side inner C off, then cut the drivers side tube approximately 4”, and weld the inner C back on. This will give me a 58” WMS to WMS dimension.

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #60 of 76 Old 08-03-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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I haven’t measured my 1985 CJ-7 yet, but they are supposed to be 55.5” or 56” wide WMS to WMS, depending on the source. My end result should be 1” wider on each side front and rear, which is good for stability. I will use 8” wheels with the appropriate backspacing to allow the front tires to turn fully stop to stop without contacting the leaf springs, or any other part of the Jeep, but they will stick out a couple inches more than stock.

As far as my lift goes, I’m planning on a SOA conversion using YJ leaf springs. The biggest reason for the SOA is off-road performance is better (articulation), secondary is on road ride is smoother. My research reveals that YJ leafs will aid performance and ride, both on and off road. A CJ with SUA springs is rough to say the least, my all stock CJ-7 rides like a tank. I’m trying to achieve the best of both on/off road performance with this conversion. Another goal of my SOA conversion is to do it in such a manner, it minimizes the amount of lift it actually achieves, by minimizing spring perch thickness or height.

I want to go with a Ford hi pinion Dana 44 up front, and I still may go that route, it depends on whether or not I can make this Wagoneer housing workout the way I am planning it. Minimizing perch height on the housing side of the Wagoneer Dana 44 is my biggest hurdle in achieving my minimal lift goal from the SOA conversion. A hi pinion will require new tubes, and that would allow a low perch height to be designed into the conversion, however; a hi pinion axle conversion is the most costly direction the way I see it. When I found this Wagoneer axle for $50, I figured it was worth trying to make it work with my “low as possible” SOA plan.

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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