1985 CJ-7 “Time Traveler” journey continues - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 77 Old 06-23-2019, 05:18 AM
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
Has anyone run into the OEM style aftermarket bolts sold as hardtop hardware that is too short, or is my OEM hardtop flange is too thick.

Your supposedly OEM hardtop flange looks to thick. Is that an 90 degree bend and a flange at the base of the hardtop or just the thickness of the flange?
I know the very first couple of years that the hardtop was being produced in plastic and then switched to fiberglass. What do you have, plastic or a fiberglass top?


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post #32 of 77 Old 06-23-2019, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, there is a ninety degree flange that makes it look thicker than it really is. When I bought this hardtop I noticed it didn’t have the exterior seams molded into the exterior, like my 1986 did have. I figured it must be an early production difference, I think the seller said it was off a 76. I bought it regardless because it is in really nice condition for its age, better than any I have seen since. This one also appears to have never been painted interior or exterior. I was initially planning on painting it black, like my 1986 I bought new, but the thought of a white top is growing on me. I bought eight 5/16 x 1” bolts & flat washers from Tractor Supply for pennies on the dollar compared to what I paid for the special bolts that are too short. I’ll probably mount it today, and drive it a couple days with the top and steel doors installed just to get used to it.

I’m not sure if it is plastic or fiberglass, it does seem heavy, but it’s been many years since I lifted a hardtop on or off a CJ7. I do recall being able to remove my 1986 hardtop on my own, it was risky, but I did slide it aft, and then lift it off and set it on a pair of waiting saw horses on my own, several times. I always had a second person help when reinstalling it. I don’t think I could do it with this one, but I’m not 27 years old any more, I’m an old fart, with a CJ7!
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #33 of 77 Old 06-23-2019, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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I just picked a set of new Ruggid Ridge bucket seats off of CL, $400. I installed them both without sliders and drove home, I still need to figure out whether or not they will work with the sliders installed without jamming me into the steering wheel. Might have to get creative and mount everything further aft, so I have some room. It was OK with the old seats, but these new seats are too close to the steering wheel...got nothing to do with my belly.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #34 of 77 Old 06-23-2019, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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I had to replace my gas cap, the locking cap that came on it leaked, especially after filling the tank. I’m getting 15 MPG driving around town and to work and back on country roads 45-55 MPH mostly. It should be getting 18-20 being all stock on 31’s, but it’s a tired old Rambler engine, so I’ll let it slide until I get a stroker built. Im hoping to acquire a 1995 4.0 with harness and computer next week, along with a 258 crankshaft. A 4.6 or 4.7 stroker should be coming together in the next couple months. I bet I can get it back to 20 MPG with a fresh stroker on 31’s, unless the automatic transmission is causing the lack of economy. My Jeep is the first Jeep I ever saw with an automatic, and I was originally planning on swapping to a 4-speed with overdrive, but this auto is starting to grow on me, it’s Fun to drive!

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #35 of 77 Old 06-23-2019, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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This is the type of roads I drive on mostly, 45-55 MPH, usually taking my time listening to tunes.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #36 of 77 Old 06-25-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Corrosion, the ultimate Loc-Tite
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #37 of 77 Old 07-11-2019, 06:08 AM
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How did the Liftgate fitting turn out? I am currently cleaning up my hard top and noticed I have a spot on the lift gate that is cracked pretty bad. Im sure I can fix it but having some info about the replacement would help in case something goes wrong.

While we are on this topic, does anyone know how to remove and install the side windows?? I had one window half way out when I bought the jeep but I want to try and not destroy the seals cause they look pretty good
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post #38 of 77 Old 07-12-2019, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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I got a little distracted...and spent some time cleaning, organizing & polishing my boat so I could take my wife fishing. We actually got out a couple times in the last week or so. I’ve also been working late this week, so no spare time after work like normal...I’ll get to the lift gate and hardtop soon and post up my results.


As far as the side window weather striping that holds it in place, I have new replacements on hand. I’m planning on cutting the old ones and replacing them.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #39 of 77 Old 07-16-2019, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
I got a little distracted...
No worries. its summer and we all want out go out and have fun! So I'm browsing on the internet and I am just now finding that the original lift gate was steel... Is this true? Mine is fiberglass and assumed it was original. What is your replacement? Steel or fiberglass?

I found this out because I was looking up how to take apart the original lift gate spring supports. Some claim the springs are too heavy and would crack fiberglass.
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post #40 of 77 Old 07-17-2019, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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The old rusty lift gate on my used hardtop is steel, and so is the new one. I heard there were some fiberglass reproductions made a while back, but I have never seen one.

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #41 of 77 Old 07-27-2019, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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I was having trouble pulling the axles out of my EB 9”. Finally, I chained one axle flange to a 8”x8” post in my shop. I chained the other axle flange to the back of the 4runner with a couple feet of slack. I then drove away accelerating quickly for a couple feet fefore watching and hearing the axle explode out of the housing. Then I chained the other end to the post and pulled the other axle out. Now that’s done, I can
Get to work on this 9” housing.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #42 of 77 Old 07-27-2019, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the center section out, and measured the axle bearings and the housing wheel bearing flanges.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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post #43 of 77 Old 07-27-2019, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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The wheel bearing outer diameters measure about 3.25”, so I’m thinking it’s a large bearing housing. The axles are 28 spline, but they will be replaced. The third member has an open differential and I’m not sure the gear ratio yet, I need to count the teeth yet. I’ve read online it’s either 350, 411 or 456. Anyway, I’m finally making progress with this EB 9” that I’m planning on putting under My CJ-7.
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #44 of 77 Old 07-28-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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My EB 9” rear end, that I acquired for free back in 1996, is finally being used. I picked it up because they are strong and narrow. At 58” drum to drum, it’s perfect to put under my CJ-7. It’s going to my chassis guy to verify it’s still straight, get straightened if required, and a back brace welded on.

Time to start shopping for a Dana 44 for the front, and a rebuilder 4.0, for a stroker build.

In the mean time the Time Traveler is my daily driver as long as rain is not in the forecast.

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #45 of 77 Old 07-28-2019, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Picture attached this time
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1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
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