1984 CJ7 restoration - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 40 Old 07-15-2015, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
AustinCooper
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1984 CJ7 restoration

Hi:
Iím new to this forum and new to Jeeps. An old friend bought an 84 CJ7 new and drove it around Boston for 13 years. By 1997 was done with it and I had room in my barn, so thatís where it landed for the next 18 years.

Last fall my twenty-year-old daughter (who was 2 when the Jeep arrived) pleaded with me to get it on the road. She was able to appreciate the cool factor of the old Jeep over the thousands of Wranglers around (I taught her well). So we dragged it out into the sunlight and checked it out. After 18 years, the oil was still clean and the coolant green. Hosed it off, jury-rigged a jerry can gas tank and it fired up. Took it for a long enough drive to be sure the drivetrain was ok, and the decision was made to bring it back to life.
We demoted my beloved MGB from the garage to the barn, brought the Jeep in, and slowly worked through an evaluation and teardown. Itís been a slow but very enjoyable experience. I have not had one snapped bolt during the teardown. After pulling the tub, we were relieved to find a frame with only surface rust (much of the frame still with original coating). The tub has serious rust behind the seats where rainwater pooled while on the city streets, and some body rust as well. No structural issues were found.
As the tear-down proceeded slowly through the winter, I plotted (obsessed) about all the modifications I was going to do to make it a better Jeep.... J20 steering box, YJ springs, alloy wheels, etc. However, as I got down to the bare chassis I began to realize that this could be a special Jeep, since it had 13 years of light used and 18 years of dry storage. Maybe we should take the stock OEM approach.
So, we've decided go original. Solid white wheels, no lift, MOPAR parts, CJ springs, reupholstered original seats, and try to make it look like it looked on the dealer lot. I really like the examples Iíve seen of this approach. The only change I really feel I need to do is to replace the carb to revert back to pre-computer configuration (not sure of the right carb, earlier CJ or weber).
I'll start to document the process from here on in. Engine came off the chassis last night. Next steps: remove axles steering and suspension... pressure wash and needle scale the frame, and start the rebuilding process.
I've read tons of all of your posts. Thank you. Hopefully I can help some folks now too.

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Barn.jpg   hosedoff.jpg   outinthesun.jpg  
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post #2 of 40 Old 07-15-2015, 09:39 PM
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have fun, I agree on restoring it rather than modifying it - something simple and nice about the way they were back when ...

'15 WK2 Diesel 4x4 ORII, Nitto TG2 275/65r18, BORA 1"f/1.25"r spacers, RRO super sliders
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post #3 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 02:29 AM
hutch1200
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You Sir, have raised a true Lady. Good to see she has her priorities in line & a good head on her shoulders. I don't see a mini poodle in her lap while driving.
Seeing the same colored CJ as mine reminded me I have some spare parts.
I've got some black roll bar covers, 3 pt seatbelts, same green roll bar, 3 or 4 wagon wheels (I could blast & P-coat them for cost), nutmeg back seat (use an aftermarket cover?) & big aftermarket console for youse. Need a hardtop & Green (Matching) doors? Pre '82 rotary handle though.
It just seems like a good cause, they're taking up room....1st come, ugh.. 1st....something??
I used my old roll bar to make w-shield to roll bar stringers & then tied them in by going across between them..
I'm in Scranton & would meet you 1/2 way, if interested. Or mail whoever wants what. It's 4 hours round trip for each of us.BTW, there's a 6-71 blown, alcohol, bored 401 on Ebay in case she needs 700+HP!
Good luck with it, keep us posted w/pics, get a shop manual & try to fill out your "profile" as best as you can.

I've also learned that sometimes... when people don't agree with you .... its best to hold them down and kidney punch them till they agree with you
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post #4 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 02:33 AM
wellmax
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Austin,
the pictures of your daughters jeep may have answered a long ask question for me.


I bought a 1984 jeep many years ago, it was not in the condition of your daughters jeep by any stretch. But it had low back seats, one seat still had the CJ logo imprinted into the covering and the back seat matched the one front seat with the logo.


Question: by 1984 did jeep still offer low back seats as standard equipment or were all front seats high back by this time period. Seeing pictures of your daughters jeep has answered that question for me, in 1984 Jeep still did offer low back seats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Yea,


During these years there were a lot of automotive changes taking place, new safety rules, etc:


will attach some pictures of my jeep. Story goes an old man bought my jeep new and basically used it only to drive to the dr in the winter, it came from Il. Guess that is the reason it was so rusty, but not destroyed as so many jeeps are by young folks out on the trails and byways.


Last year I decided to buy new seats for my jeep, so I just bit the bullet and ordered new low back seats.


Sure wish my old jeep was near as nice as yours, mine has the std motor, 4 cylinder, 4 speed transmission, power steering, power brakes and a radio, plus a center console. The hard top on my jeep is off an older jeep as it has hard doors with rollup windows and door handles, not paddle handles as a 1984 would of had.


good luck with your daughters jeep,


one more question: my old jeep had an old rotten strap in the glove box, the only think I could think it could have been for was to tie the windshield down to the hood loop when you put the windshield down. I just left it there or may have throw it away by now as I never lower the windshield.
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post #5 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 04:35 AM
Mike Romain
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That BBD carb can be set up to run correctly with no computer running it or national carbs sell a non stepper replacement for a decent price.
To set it up with no working stepper motor, you just set the air bypass pins in the center of their travel or with 1/8" of shaft showing before the taper starts. You might have to remove the stepper motor to move the pins, they rock in steps and sometimes be moved from the top with needle nose pliers. If the ECU is still there, you can move the pins with the mix screws. Mix screws clockwise lean pushes pins into carb deeper, mix screws counterclockwise rich, pins pull back.
Once the pins are centered and the stepper unplugged, the carb acts like a normal one for tuning.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #6 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
AustinCooper
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Thanks Hutch: I appreciate the offers. Once I get it into build mode I'll have a better idea of what I need. Chassis first.
By the way, no mini-poodle in sight:
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post #7 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
AustinCooper
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Wellmax:
It looks like we have clone '84's same setup as yours without the hardtop "std motor, 4 cylinder, 4 speed transmission, power steering, power brakes and a radio, plus a center console". Just no hardtop and no rear seat. Definitely low back seats were available with the base 4-cylinder. Don't think I noticed a CJ logo on them but will check. Also, didn't see a strap in the glove box. Probably in the dump somewhere.
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post #8 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
AustinCooper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinCooper View Post
Wellmax:
It looks like we have clone '84's same setup as yours without the hardtop "std motor, 4 cylinder, 4 speed transmission, power steering, power brakes and a radio, plus a center console". Just no hardtop and no rear seat. Definitely low back seats were available with the base 4-cylinder. Don't think I noticed a CJ logo on them but will check. Also, didn't see a strap in the glove box. Probably in the dump somewhere.
Mike thanks very much. I thought I'd have to give the carb the heave ho. It did run fine during the short test drive. Since the main point is original equipment, I will definiteley give this a go. Thanks again.
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post #9 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 09:38 AM
Mr. Boh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wellmax View Post
one more question: my old jeep had an old rotten strap in the glove box, the only think I could think it could have been for was to tie the windshield down to the hood loop when you put the windshield down. I just left it there or may have throw it away by now as I never lower the windshield.
Is there a metal "buckle" on the strap and is it relatively short? If so its for the windshield hold down. If its a longer strap with two loops at the end then its the hold down for the rear fold and tumble seat. My guess is its the windshield strap as the fold and tumble strap was typically left on one of the feet of the seat.
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post #10 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 06:16 PM
hutch1200
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My CJ7 was an absolute strippo. Huge, Bake-o-lite steering wheel, lo-backs, steelie rims, radio delete, no back seat, etc.
All it had going for it was Green Metallic paint/304/T-150/D-20 & 3.73's
I knew the kid whose dad owned a big scrap yard. A same color CJ7 Renegade came in as a recovered theft, w/o a drivetrain. They busted them mid-hack!
I got the hi-back nutmeg seats (back too), carpet kit, dash pad, hard top w/doors, roll-bar covers, deluxe faux leather/alum steering wheel, AM/FM/CB, (still 1 speaker though), HOOD W/RENEGADE STRIPES (had to buy rocker stripes), Turbine mags & newish Wranglers, 2.5" Rancho buck-board lift, fog lights, tach, clock, console & I'm sure other bits....(headers maybe?) All for just over about a grand in '83. Totally went from tractor to coolest 4x4 @ school. Just right place, right time.

I've also learned that sometimes... when people don't agree with you .... its best to hold them down and kidney punch them till they agree with you
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post #11 of 40 Old 07-16-2015, 09:04 PM
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinCooper View Post
...The only change I really feel I need to do is to replace the carb to revert back to pre-computer configuration (not sure of the right carb, earlier CJ or weber)
Welcome to the forum and the CJ world! Normally I would recommend a genuine Weber 38 but I see you have a 4 cylinder. Someone will chime in on the best option for that.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #12 of 40 Old 07-17-2015, 05:08 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinCooper View Post

Mike thanks very much. I thought I'd have to give the carb the heave ho. It did run fine during the short test drive. Since the main point is original equipment, I will definiteley give this a go. Thanks again.
I now see you have a 4 banger. That carb is different than the 6, it us a carter YFA. The easiest thing to do is to swap it for a plain carter YF. Here is one thread about it:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/nu...postid=7310520
The nutter bypass is disabling the ECU. The wiring is the same for both the 4 and 6.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ho...bypass-522262/

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos:
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post #13 of 40 Old 07-17-2015, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
AustinCooper
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Mike thanks for the great info. I did some reading on the bypass and think I a handle on it. This approach will allow me to keep the original air filter configuration as well. good to have a plan even if that step is a ways out.
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post #14 of 40 Old 07-17-2015, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
AustinCooper
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Next step... power wash and needle scale as much as I can while still rolling. Then go to bare frame and finish the descaling. Here's is where we stand:
Attached Thumbnails
framebeforepowerwash1.jpg   framebeforepowerwash2.jpg   framebeforepowerwash3.jpg   framebeforepowerwash4.jpg   framebeforepowerwash5.jpg  

enginegastankpulled.jpg   tubpulled1.jpg   tubpulled2.jpg   tubpulled3.jpg   tubpulled4.jpg  

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post #15 of 40 Old 08-02-2015, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
AustinCooper
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Slow but steady progress. Down to bare frame except for front suspension. Once I find a decent pitman arm puller that will be gone too
Next step is de rust frame. I'm remarkable shape for an 84. Original paint on 60 %. Won't budge with pressure washer. Working rust on top of frame with a rustoleum rust dissolver/power wash/wire wheel cycle which is working well. Should be ready for underside by end of day.
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