1983 CJ7 Exhaust Manifold Flange Stud Broken - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
lebowski94
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1983 CJ7 Exhaust Manifold Flange Stud Broken

Hey all,

The rear stud on the exhaust manifold pipe outlet broke when I was removing the front pipe. It protrudes about a 1/4 inch, but I can’t get a vise- grip on it or a drill straight through it.

Are there any shade-tree Hail Marys I could try?

If not, what would be a fair price to have a shop remove it?

Cheers,

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post #2 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 04:12 PM
Fourtrail
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weld a nut over/to what is left of the stud and then back it out with a wrench.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #3 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 04:13 PM
BushPusher77
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you could try welding a nut to the broken works most times
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post #4 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
lebowski94
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If only I knew how to weld
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post #5 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 08:59 PM
sanddrag
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I had a similar problem on mine. I was just barely able to get in there with a very small cordless drill and some left hand cobalt bits to drill it out. It didn't come out totally straight, but I was still able to re-tap it and get a new stud in there and it's been working fine for years.
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post #6 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 10:09 PM
StoneTower
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+1 on welding the nut on it. Do you have access to a torch? Vice grips and a torch?

You have a Jeep, buy a small MIG welder.


I would replace both sides while I was at it.
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post #7 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
+1 on welding the nut on it. Do you have access to a torch? Vice grips and a torch?

You have a Jeep, buy a small MIG welder.


I would replace both sides while I was at it.
I disagree with welding the nut on the broken stud. Sometimes you just need to suck it up and do the work the right way, or pay someone else to do it.

Let's look at a few facts. The stud is extremely rusted which probably caused it to break in the first place and will likely make it rusted into the manifold as well. And how good can welding on a rusted, broken stud me? Granted, the heat may make the rust break loose, but if it doesn't break loose the rust you're going back in anyway. And looking at the photo that thing looks like a 50 year old Michigan Upper Peninsula rot job.

This is going to be a tedious job. Grind it flat near to the manifold surface because the further in you go the more likely you'll get to actual metal. Do your best job to get a centerpunch on the stud and start drilling. Don't go big! Start small. That way you can creep up a 64th (~.015 inch) at a time. And don't bother with a left hand drill. You'll only be wasting money on overpriced drill bits. This allows you to steer the drill if/when you can tell you're off center.

Ideally, you'll drill close enough to the center of the stud to leave what is essentially a helicoil and peel the thread out of the cavity. And even then it won't be easy. The further off you are from the center of the stud when you get close to the threads the harder it will be to get the remainder out. It takes tools, patience, and time. As the saying goes, you are just one broken/rusted bolt away from turning a ten minute job into a three day ordeal. If you try to take the shortcut out, you will pay for your intransigence!

Granted, this is all based on judging from a picture. But what else do I have to work with?
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post #8 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 10:56 PM
StoneTower
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It really works good.

I have never tried drilling the hole before welding on the nut. I would grind, sand or file the rust off the part of the stud that is sticking out. Cut the stud off a little shorter than the nut and burn it in. The heat almost always frees the threads. I would probably soak it with a good penetrating oil for a couple of days especially since you have access to the back side of the threads.

In this particular application, you could try heating it with a torch and using locking pliers if you do not have access to a MIG or ARC welder.


When you drill out a stud, you run the risk of cross threading it with the tap as it is difficult to get the tap to start cutting in the out threads unless you are able to use a pick to remove what is left of the old stud. IF you are able to extract the old stud in one piece, you can easily clean up the threads with a tap.
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post #9 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
+1 on welding the nut on it. Do you have access to a torch? Vice grips and a torch?

You have a Jeep, buy a small MIG welder.


I would replace both sides while I was at it.
Agreed! With the caveat that you may be dealing with another broken stud with the other one.

Just sayin'!

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post #10 of 61 Old 08-22-2018, 11:51 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSOg7aQ44egWhen you drill out a stud, you run the risk of cross threading it with the tap as it is difficult to get the tap to start cutting in the out threads unless you are able to use a pick to remove what is left of the old stud. IF you are able to extract the old stud in one piece, you can easily clean up the threads with a tap.
Agreed. But at some point you have to understand your situation is dire. I'm not talking about being able to chase the threads with a tap. If you think you can try that, you had better hit the center almost exactly. And that may not always work out because of a crappy substrate.

What I'm saying is that you have to take the time and pick the pieces out of the hole. You have to put in the time to get one piece of the coil so you can grab it with needlenose pliers and uncoil it by twisting counter-clockwise. It usually takes a lot of work. In many ways, doing this kind of work is as much like archeology as it is about being a mechanic.

Do the work. Or look to pay someone else to do it for you. Or buy new parts...

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post #11 of 61 Old 08-23-2018, 12:29 AM
StoneTower
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You do realize that when you have a broken stud, you can try the welding trick and if for some reason it does not work, you can always drill it out. The welding trick works even better when the steel stud is broken off in aluminum. If you are fairly careful, the welder will not even touch the aluminum because it cools so much more quickly than steel and it wicks the heat away rather than melting.




and one more in a exhaust manifold

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post #12 of 61 Old 08-23-2018, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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This is some good stuff. Shop quoted me $300 so I’m looking at Millermatic on Craigslist for the same price right now.

If that fails, I can try to drill it. The stock stud on a 83 is threaded, not pressed, right?

—Also, I do not have a torch, but have vise grips.
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post #13 of 61 Old 08-23-2018, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lebowski94 View Post
This is some good stuff. Shop quoted me $300 so Iím looking at Millermatic on Craigslist for the same price right now.

If that fails, I can try to drill it. The stock stud on a 83 is threaded, not pressed, right?

óAlso, I do not have a torch, but have vise grips.
With no equipment and getting really high quotes to remove the bolt, I suggest you look on Craigslist for a 1981-1986 used exhaust manifold in better condition. Ebay has several of these for sale with the part plus shipping for less than $100.

After you have the better manifold, you can make sure you remove its flange bolts correctly with heat etc if not already removed and can then work on the original manifold at your leisure as a learning experience.

It is good to fill out your profile!

Good luck.

STJP
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post #14 of 61 Old 08-23-2018, 08:15 AM
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With no equipment and getting really high quotes to remove the bolt, I suggest you look on Craigslist for a 1981-1986 used exhaust manifold in better condition. Ebay has several of these for sale with the part plus shipping for less than $100.

After you have the better manifold, you can make sure you remove its flange bolts correctly with heat etc if not already removed and can then work on the original manifold at your leisure as a learning experience.

It is good to fill out your profile!

Good luck.

STJP
Yeah, the OP's exhaust manifold looks pretty roached. Good idea to just buy another and replace it.

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post #15 of 61 Old 08-23-2018, 09:32 AM
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Cheapest way is to try to cut a slot in it with a wafer wheel on a grinder, then heat it with a torch and try a big flat head with vice grips on the handle while the Mrs. or significant other whacks the end of the screwdriver with a 5lb hammer. Post pics of the Mrs. if successful!
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