1982 CJ5 -First CJ project and it's a doozy. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 52 Old 09-04-2021, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
Girth83
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1982 CJ5 -First CJ project and it's a doozy.

I was poking around under the hood this morning for other issues, as I'm waiting for brake lines from Inline Tube. Have a copy of the TSM for 1982, so I'll get it all sorted out, but figured I'd post a few pics anyways. A seasoned eye sometimes spots things that aren't obvious in the manual's prints/pictures.

Just picked up this project, (1982 CJ5, 258/4spd) it runs, but is still undrivable. (didn't have a master cylinder in it) Was going through the brakes until a seized hardline fitting (that rounded off) stopped me. Goal is to get it moving/driveable first, while I resist the urge to tear it apart and create an endless project. First CJ for me, so I've been learning as I go.

The return spring made me laugh. The breather wasn't connected to the air cleaner, and the sources of likely vacuum leaks are many. No heat riser tube to the air cleaner. EGR delete? Fuel filter doesn't appear to be clocked right. Vapor canister is still there, but none of the lines are hooked up. Ordered a rebuild kit for the carb, but that will wait until I can drive it. Oil smells badly of fuel, so a new pump and oil change are in short order. Radiator has some "putty" plugging what I'm guessing were a few leaks, so that's high on the list. Wiring looks to be a MESS, but that's easy enough.

Someone smacked something with the front right at one point, since the leaf spring is bent, and theres a crack in the front crossmember. I'll weld up the crack, and eventually replace the springs. Windshield frame is badly rusted, so I'm on the hunt for a replacement, probably a YJ frame. Seat risers are home spun and ugly, going YJ for the passenger, and will weld up my own for the drivers side probably. Need to find a rear seat. Lots and lots to keep me busy, but I'm gonna get it MOVING first.

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post #2 of 52 Old 09-04-2021, 03:21 PM
devildog80
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YES.....another one will live
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post #3 of 52 Old 09-04-2021, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
Girth83
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Another thought ( I really gotta write this stuff down/make an actual list)... does it look like stock height springs? I'm thinking so, but never know. Those are 31s on it.

Bushings are shot, and I think one shackle might be bent, so new shackles are in the mail. Haven't ordered springs yet though.
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post #4 of 52 Old 09-04-2021, 03:43 PM
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Stock height at top of windshield should be ??.?", so anything over that will tell how much tires/springs/shackle lift you have.

Height: 1755 mm / 69.1 in

Ok, finding conflicting measurements on line, so give or take 2 inches, and that will tell you.

Height 67.7 in (1,720 mm)
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post #5 of 52 Old 09-04-2021, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devildog80 View Post
Stock height at top of windshield should be ??.?", so anything over that will tell how much tires/springs/shackle lift you have.

Height: 1755 mm / 69.1 in

Ok, finding conflicting measurements on line, so give or take 2 inches, and that will tell you.

Height 67.7 in (1,720 mm)
It's on a jack/stand with one corner off still (stubborn brakes), and on uneven gravel, so I'm not gonna get out the tape. lol That sounds about right though. I'm 70in tall, and the top of the windshield is right about there, so that makes sense with the 31s on it. OEM shackles on it still, and actually most of the Heep looks fairly unmolested, which I like. Well, it HAS been molested plenty over the years, obviously, but at least not hacked up/modded to high heaven. I just have to fix/replace everything as I go.
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post #6 of 52 Old 09-05-2021, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Huh... in my parts browsing today, I may have stumbled on a radiator deal. Amazon, go figure. It's ordered, so we'll see if it fits the bill. At that price, and shipped/sold from the all powerful and all too convenient corporation, at least a return/refund will be easy if needed. lol

Just in case anyone else needs a radiator, and wants to take a chance on a deal that looks too good to be true....
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post #7 of 52 Old 09-06-2021, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girth83 View Post
Ordered a rebuild kit for the carb, but that will wait until I can drive it. Oil smells badly of fuel, so a new pump and oil change are in short order.
So your inclined to believe that the fuel in the oil came from a bad pump diaphragm and not from the carburetor?
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post #8 of 52 Old 09-06-2021, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
Girth83
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So your inclined to believe that the fuel in the oil came from a bad pump diaphragm and not from the carburetor?
I'm inclined to believe the carburetor could easily be the cause. Have a new fuel pump on hand, don't have the rebuild kit for the carburetor yet. Either way, changing the oil, fuel pump/filter and some lines today. We shall see.



I'm trying not to tear too far into it, or into too many systems at once. In my experience, that's a fast way to a stalled project and it just sitting there. It's been sitting for too long as it is.
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post #9 of 52 Old 09-06-2021, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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One step forward, two steps back. My order from Inline Tube for the front brake lines is delayed, so rather than waiting ANOTHER week, I just made a replacement line for the one side today. Think the brakes are working now, pedal feels ok, after a lot of gravity bleeding. Test drive to come later. Rear cylinders are questionable, and I want to change out the rear hose, so I'll be back into the system later anyways.

Got the new fuel pump/filter/soft lines in. Some of those rubber lines were ROUGH, and cracking. Glad I did that. Old pump poured out some REALLY thin "oil" from inside it's housing after I got it off. Thats at least one source of gas in the oil it looks like. Oil was black as can be, and there was a fair amount of metal built up on the magnetic drain plug. Never something I'm happy to see, but time will tell.

THEN I went to start it. Soon as I hooked up the battery, I understood what the previous owner meant about it draining the battery. I thought he just meant the brake lights were on, since it had no master cylinder in it. NOPE. The front markers/tail lights (one of them at least) were on, with the key off. Even with the key on, no brake lights, and no turn signals. That's fun. Looks like I'm diving into the questionable wiring sooner rather than later. Only got a couple cranks before the battery went flat. It's on the charger, so I'll juice it with some starting fluid later and see if it at least still runs.
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post #10 of 52 Old 09-06-2021, 08:28 PM
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Your fuel filter may be upside down, the return lie is to be at 12 o'clock, not 6:30 (hard to see in pics)
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BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
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1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #11 of 52 Old 09-06-2021, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
Girth83
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Your fuel filter may be upside down, the return lie is to be at 12 o'clock, not 6:30 (hard to see in pics)
It was oriented wrong, to the 3 or 9 o'clock. The new one is now oriented properly.

A squirt of gas down the carb, and she fired up. I got to drive it around the yard. It's ALIVE!

At a cold idle (high and rough... more to do) it was holding 25psi on the oil pressure gauge. It got HOT quick though, and I see the temp gauge doesn't appear to work either. More for "the list". Next up, investigating the headlight switch (first stop for the lights being always on), then a coolant flush/new radiator, and apparently a temperature gauge to get me by.
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post #12 of 52 Old 09-13-2021, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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The day job (and spending all weekend replacing subfloor in a travel trailer) has been getting in the way of working on the Jeep. Went and picked up my radiator from UPS today though. It's made in Jordan, of all places. Putting a tape on the mount bolts on the leaky unit currently installed..... this new one MIGHT bolt right in, maybe. Looks like the mount flange bolt holes on the new one are a 1/2in too narrow and there isn't enough meat to slot the holes out further. No biggie. Worst case, I'll cut a piece of stainless to extend the flange on one side. It's a 2 row core too, as opposed to the 3row that's in the Jeep currently. That difference in core thickness will put it further away from the fan. (5 blade?, no clutch, no shroud) I guess I'll see how that works out for me. Anything is better than the one in there, that leaks even when its not under pressure.

Wife picked up a water pump, radiator hoses, and 195* thermostat from NAPA for me. Figures..... Gates pump, with the threaded hole on the heater outlet, that another forum member ran into. I guess the thinking there is to put a fitting in that hole, to match the tube size on the heater core? Not sure I like that, but I guess that's one way around the whole one size hose/two fitting sizes thing. If I can get a fitting to fit the pump with ease, I'll probably run it. If not, I'll take the pump back and get one without that threaded outlet.

Hope to get the cooling system flushed out, new radiator/pump/thermostat installed this weekend. (oh yeah... temp gauge, need to pick up one of those too) Made some room in the garage, so I can then pull it inside to get to work on the electrical. Need to get behind the dash and see what has been done over the years. Fixing the ALWAYS ON marker lights, getting the brake lights and turn signals working, and adding relays for the headlights are next up.
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post #13 of 52 Old 09-14-2021, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Is there an issue removing the grill shell, without removing the fenders? Looking at it, it LOOKS doable, some wiring to pull though, and probably wise to support the fenders.... but I'm not sure if I'll bother yet.

I yanked the radiator, water pump and thermostat after work today, and flushed out the block and heater core. In pulling the radiator, I think I found why the mount bolt spread looked too wide for the new one. The passenger side of the grill shell/core support (I'm sure it has a name?), has cracked through and popped it's welds in a few places. That entire side, the flange where the radiator mounts is pretty much just floating. It would be a LOT easier to clean up and weld back together if it was off the Jeep, but then I'm sure I'd just break (or find broken) even more things. Tougher to clean up the metal to weld with it installed...... but not impossible I guess. I'm undecided. Could probably pull the lights, so I don't grab the wiring with the grinder/wire wheel, clamp it in place and just tack it back together.

A simple job is always just one broken bolt (or weld) away from being a serious project.
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post #14 of 52 Old 09-16-2021, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Family is visiting from out of town, but they ran off to visit other family today, and since I had the time off work already..... it was a "WORK ON THE JEEP!" day.

Did some HORRIBLE welding after work yesterday (no, I'm not sharing a pic lol) to tack the core support back together. The new el-cheapo Jordanian radiator bolted right up. Things got more interesting after I bolted up the new water pump. Gates pump, from NAPA, with the heater outlet threaded. Same pump another forum member questioned and ended up taking it back. I maybe should have taken it back and gotten a different one. It's shorter, from mounting surface to pulley flange, by 1/4in. That didn't CREATE a problem, but it made an existing problem obvious. I had a pulley/belt alignment issue. The water pump pulley was off by 1/4in it seems, and off by a 1/2in with the new pump. Original stackup had a 1/2in spacer between pump and pulley, and another between pulley and fan. I put it back together, with BOTH spacers stacked between the pulley and pump flange, so the belt at least ran in line.... but I gotta fix that later.

Two groove water pump pulley and two groove crank pulley/balancer? I'm wondering if either is correct?

I at least got the cooling system back together, and the Jeep moved into the garage. It's supposed to rain all weekend and I have some serious wiring woes to sort out. It's running RICH too, so might rebuild the carb while I hack away at the wiring. I can't do any worse than whoever HACKED away at the dash.
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post #15 of 52 Old 09-16-2021, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Search of the forum threads to the rescue. I see what's going on. I think I have a few issues stacking, between water pump flange depth and the pulley depth.

ALT belt is supposed to run in the forward groove on the fan pulley? Makes sense why it's riding so deep in the rear groove, but that's where it was. Looks like I need a different (more shallow) pulley, and maybe a different pump too (or adjust the flange on the pump shaft). The current pulley hits the pump, if I remove the 1/2in spacer that was between the pulley and pump flange.

Something else to source parts for and mess with. Yay.
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