1982 cj 5. 4.2 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 05-17-2021, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
Johnboy13
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1982 cj 5. 4.2

Can someone tell me what this box just left of starter solenoid
It has about nine wires coming out of it going into the wiring harness

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post #2 of 23 Old 05-17-2021, 07:12 PM
BagusJeep
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Idle speed switch
keith460 likes this.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #3 of 23 Old 05-18-2021, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
Johnboy13
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Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
Idle speed switch
Can this be done away with ? I would like to go back to basic on the this jeep. Removing most of the vacuum and elect lines not needed to run
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post #4 of 23 Old 05-18-2021, 09:12 AM
Charleston82CJ7
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Do you still have the feed back carb? If not then probably so. I’m about to do the same with mine. Check the wiring diagram to see what the switch controls.
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post #5 of 23 Old 05-18-2021, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
Johnboy13
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Originally Posted by Charleston82CJ7 View Post
Do you still have the feed back carb? If not then probably so. I’m about to do the same with mine. Check the wiring diagram to see what the switch controls.
I plan on installing a HEI distributor and a good carburetor that don’t have all the vacuum and elect crap all over it
I’ll go back to a reg oil pressure gauge and amp gauge
May have to put a one wire alternator on it too
The only gauge I may keep is the gas gauge
Any ideas and help will be appreciated
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post #6 of 23 Old 05-18-2021, 08:13 PM
BagusJeep
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Depends on where you live as to whether to modify the emissions equipment. As it is a 1982 you do not have too much of it.

The Carter BBD it came with was a good carb in the day, easy to rebuild and get working as a standalone carb. The Weber 38 is IMHO a better carb but that adds cost to the build and then you struggle with a Redline air cleaner that is just not very good.

The ignition system was also good for the day. The Motorcraft style distributor is quite good quality and can be improved by the Teamrush upgrade to a larger cap. With just service parts you can get them ticking just fine if you know which parts to buy, and cheap.

If you want the gas gauge, it comes with the temperature gauge and the speedo, an alternator charging lamp, a 4WD light, high beam and turn lamps.

Oil pressure gauge can be swapped, I prefer a mechanical one.

An amp gauge is flat out dangerous and you have to bring the battery cable all the way to the dash and back out, I would stick with a voltmeter in the dash.

A one wire alternator is fine for a show car but does not generate power properly as it is crippled by the lack of a separate sense wire attached closer to the systems you want to maintain voltage in. If you want to keep your system voltage up where it counts and your battery charging correctly a 3 wire alternator with a sense wire is the one you need.

It does not need to be "heavy duty" or "big amps" as those are just marketing idiot names, you rarely see more than 30 or 40 Amps from an alternator in a CJ5, if you did the wiring would melt.

A stock alternator or a cheap parts store SI10 reman is more than adequate, a larger case alternator is an upgrade if you spend a lot of time crawling and want more current at low engine speeds to keep the battery charging.

The only thing I would add to your list is a battery cut off switch. Old CJs tend to leak electricity and sit around until dead, a cut off switch is worth the hassle. You can have a surface mounted one, which is convenient, or one on the battery terminal.

And check the two fusible links at the solenoid are intact. Many a CJ has burnt down because these have been cut out, they are wiring harness protection.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #7 of 23 Old 06-07-2021, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
Johnboy13
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Does any one have a basic wiring diagram on a cj5 1982 4.1 showing the wiring coming out of the firewall and where they go
I want to remove all the extra wiring that’s not needed to run
I have installed a HEI distributor and wired it up
Just need oil pressure , temp ,gas and amp gages
It’s going to be a hunting rig so I don’t need all that extra
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post #8 of 23 Old 06-07-2021, 04:56 PM
Charleston82CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnboy13 View Post
Does any one have a basic wiring diagram on a cj5 1982 4.1 showing the wiring coming out of the firewall and where they go
I want to remove all the extra wiring that’s not needed to run
I have installed a HEI distributor and wired it up
Just need oil pressure , temp ,gas and amp gages
It’s going to be a hunting rig so I don’t need all that extra
https://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm/Part%20...20Diagrams.pdf
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post #9 of 23 Old 06-08-2021, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
Johnboy13
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Does anyone have information or details on removing the starter switch in the steering column
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post #10 of 23 Old 06-08-2021, 08:27 PM
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Does anyone have information or details on removing the starter switch in the steering column
Get under the dash and you will see 2 screws holding the switch on to the lower column. take out 2 screws.

There is a rod that connects it to the rack and sector and ignition lock cylinder higher up the column. Just wiggle the switch off.

Then you will have the switch in your hands. Note which wire goes where before you pull them off. The wire to the starter solenoid is a light blue.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #11 of 23 Old 06-08-2021, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
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Does anyone have information or details on removing the starter switch in the steering column
Are you referring to the switch IN the column where the key goes, or the switch ON the column under the dash? Because where the key goes isn't a switch but just a lock cylinder.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #12 of 23 Old 06-09-2021, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
Johnboy13
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It the switch under the dash with the wires thanks for the help
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post #13 of 23 Old 06-09-2021, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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I would like to change out the Carter bbd carburetor what I have read a Weber 32 36 would be first choice is there any other Holley ,Rochester or Ford will fit the stock manifold with out a adapter
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post #14 of 23 Old 06-09-2021, 11:32 PM
BagusJeep
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The BBD was a good carb, it had 2 synchronous venturi. It was used on muscle cars and a lot of vehicles had them.

The weber 32/36 is fine for economy and slow speed running, it has a good vacuum signature as the mixture passes through that single primary venturi at high velocity. The primary sequential venturi is physically smaller than the BBD synchronous venturi, by a factor of about 3. Hence at low to medium speed, until that second venturi opens, it is just so much smaller.

This can be good for fuel economy and was seen on many cars of the day.

At higher engine speeds when both venturi open, it is just not as big as that primary is quite small, about 75% of the size of the BBD. That means it is going to constrict air flow and will struggle compared to the BBD. OK, so a 258 is not a high speed engine.

If you use your CJ for more than 5,000 miles per year and fuel costs are more important than performance, a 32/36 may make you happy, well not happy as you will be miserable with the performance.

The Weber 38 DGAS or manual choke 38DGMS are synchronous carbs, you get both venturis open at idle. In general they are at about or above the BBD in flows and are generally well behaved. They have their fans and detractors but they are so much less constrictive than the 32/36.

Always buy GENUINE MADE IN SPAIN WEBER. They have Weeber cast into th emetal, not a sticker. they say LCM and Made in Spain cast in.

The other carb worth considering is the MC2100.

Of course all of these require an adapter which is a small aluminium plate with holes. This is a small cost compared with the carb.

Other carbs can be used, smaller Holleys etc. Get anything larger than 350cfm and it will not develop the velocities for clean signature.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #15 of 23 Old 06-15-2021, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
Johnboy13
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Need help to find where this part goes
I’m replacing my turn signal switch and key lock
When was cleaning up I found this part on the floor of the jeep
I have looked through my books and internet and haven’t came up where this part goes
Please tell me where this goes. Thank
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