1981 Kentucky CJ7 build - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 08:06 AM
bob4703
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1974 CJ5 
 
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Are you sure the 5 amp fuse is the for the park lights? 5 amps seems low to me. That fuse block looks a little suspect too.

A quick check would be to disconnect the headlights on the light switch and connect the park lights to the headlight connector. If they burn you have a power problem. I had the same problem when we first got our 74. A PO had direct wired the tail lights and used a toggle switch to turn them on and off. The park lights didn't work so I spliced them into the headlight circuit. When I rewired the Jeep with a new harness the park lights still didn't work so I replaced the switch, but left the park lights connected to the headlights. Figured that I needed as much visibility as possible.

I assume you are using a meter to check for current. You can use it to check continuity too. That's the function where if you touch the leads together the meter dial pegs and you get an audible beep. Make a long test lead with alligator clips and a long wire. Disconnect the battery and clip one end of the test lead to one end of the circuit and the other to a meter lead. Touch the other meter lead to the other end of the circuit. The meter will tell you when you have complete circuit. Shorten the test circuit until you get a complete circuit. This way you can isolate where the problem is.

Don't discount Matt's suggestion to check your grounds. There is always a bad ground. The battery is grounded to the engine block which is grounded to the frame at the motor mount. The body is grounded to the frame through the body mounts. Your lights are grounded to the grill which is grounded to the frame with one bolt. It is also grounded to the body with the fenders through 16 bolts. Some or all of these points will be rusty thus a bad ground. I just had my grill and fenders off and took some pictures. When I finish putting it back together I will post some pictures. You can also use the test lead to ground your light directly to the battery. Any light must have power and ground to burn.

Good luck!


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post #77 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Yep, it was totally the wrong fuse and wrong circuit. Matt set me straight with the turn signal fuse circuit, and I feel like I'm on my way at least now. Plenty of wiring things to redo that I have noticed the more I chase these wires.

This is gonna sound real dumb, but duct tape was never considered standard use for electrical tape right??? Even in 1981??

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post #78 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 09:11 AM
JoonHoss
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I'll chime in, and will stand corrected if need be, but it seems to me that perhaps there was another type of tape or wire wrap that they may have used that when deteriorated, it looks like old duct tape?

I too have seen it many times under a dash, and not necessarily on PO work.



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post #79 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
jchal3
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That is kinda why I asked....it didnt necessarily look like is was a non factory repair....just old

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post #80 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 10:44 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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The duct tape looking wraps are factory.

Matt
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post #81 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 12:01 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchal3 View Post
Yep, it was totally the wrong fuse and wrong circuit. Matt set me straight with the turn signal fuse circuit, and I feel like I'm on my way at least now. Plenty of wiring things to redo that I have noticed the more I chase these wires.

This is gonna sound real dumb, but duct tape was never considered standard use for electrical tape right??? Even in 1981??

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My brother in laws jeep and my jeep had it over soldered joints. So I think it was factory.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #82 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Yep that's where mine was.


Hey thanks for the help today guys. I got all my lights working today. Pretty good progress for me.

Next I will be troubleshooting the turn signals and brake lights.

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post #83 of 301 Old 10-26-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Okay...on to the brake light switch. I'm guessing it's the piston looking switch on the top of the brake pedal. Right now it does nothing. From the looks of it it is a normally closed switch, is this correct? Any funny stuff I should know about this circuit, or just trace it out??

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post #84 of 301 Old 10-27-2019, 09:18 AM
stripperguy
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Brake light switch is under the dash on the brake pedal bracket
Switch on the proportioning valve is to show a brake system failure

1977 CJ5 is a CJ build ever really done?
2002 TJ gone
2005 TJ also gone
2005 LJ insurance wreck
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post #85 of 301 Old 11-02-2019, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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I started this morning tring to fix my turn signals by replacing the switch...now my entire dash and wiring harness is laying on the front seats hahah...

From what I can trace it looks like I'm not getting 12v through the yellow wire that comes from on the plug on top of the steering column and goes to the turn signal fuse in the box. If I jump 12v to the turn signal fuse and turn on the switch the signals work.

Where in this plug on top of the steering column is the 12c supposed to be coming from??

And what the heck is this part of the wiring diagram referencing??

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post #86 of 301 Old 11-02-2019, 03:27 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchal3 View Post
I started this morning tring to fix my turn signals by replacing the switch...now my entire dash and wiring harness is laying on the front seats hahah...

From what I can trace it looks like I'm not getting 12v through the yellow wire that comes from on the plug on top of the steering column and goes to the turn signal fuse in the box. If I jump 12v to the turn signal fuse and turn on the switch the signals work.

Where in this plug on top of the steering column is the 12c supposed to be coming from??

And what the heck is this part of the wiring diagram referencing??

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That's your ignition switch and connectors and it's good to see the connectors aren't melted.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #87 of 301 Old 11-03-2019, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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So I should have 12v on the yellow line correct.

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post #88 of 301 Old 11-03-2019, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Also this may be a totally stupid question....does the ignition have to be on for the turn signals to work??? Please dont say yes

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post #89 of 301 Old 11-03-2019, 12:54 PM
agear
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Originally Posted by jchal3 View Post
Also this may be a totally stupid question....does the ignition have to be on for the turn signals to work??? Please dont say yes

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Yes it does . You could always plug in your connectors to the switch and ground your switch with a jumper if needed. With everything installed and the key off you can turn on your hazards though

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #90 of 301 Old 11-03-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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The problem is I tested without it, and it led to me tearing the dash apart..... it gonna be happy if I put it back together and find out all I had to do was turn the key......what a ******* hahaha

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