1981 Kentucky CJ7 build - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 301 Old 10-12-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Well I'm planning on running 35" tires, and I think the 2.73 would not be good at that. I've got everything for 4.88 except the front ring and pinion, I think that would suit the 35" better. Am I thinking correctly. I'm assuming the 2.73 38" combo I inherited is the reason I'm replacing an axle to begin with.

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post #47 of 301 Old 10-12-2019, 03:08 PM
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I lifted it up and counted the teeth in the differential today... it is in fact a 2.73. So here lies the question. I an getting ready to install a one piece axle kit. I have everything I need here to put 4.88 gears in the rear end, and a rebuild kit for the front, but no matching gears yet.

I'm not sure I have the skill to put in the ring and pinion in the rear end, and I'm not sure I can afford to have someone do it....how difficult a job is it? Is it worth just waiting to put the axles in until the entire rear end overhaul can be completed??

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As far as teaching yourself ring and pinion setup. Read manuals, articles, etc. and understand what you are trying to accomplish and the process. There will be specialized tools like bearing pullers , dial indicators, micrometers, inch lb. torque wrench that will be needed.
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post #48 of 301 Old 10-12-2019, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jchal3 View Post
Well I'm planning on running 35" tires, and I think the 2.73 would not be good at that. I've got everything for 4.88 except the front ring and pinion, I think that would suit the 35" better. Am I thinking correctly. I'm assuming the 2.73 38" combo I inherited is the reason I'm replacing an axle to begin with.

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Yeah you need a dial indicatorto check backlash and mic to measure shims. It's not that bad. But itll take a little while. You'll have to zero in on your measurements . What you're going for Iis repeatability in the measuring. I think pirate 4x4 had a write up on it.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #49 of 301 Old 10-12-2019, 08:10 PM
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Well I'm planning on running 35" tires, and I think the 2.73 would not be good at that. I've got everything for 4.88 except the front ring and pinion, I think that would suit the 35" better. Am I thinking correctly. I'm assuming the 2.73 38" combo I inherited is the reason I'm replacing an axle to begin with.

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I thought for any gearing above 2.73 you will need a new carrier [3.08 or higher] as well.

4.88 may require a bigger unit again...

anybody?

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post #50 of 301 Old 10-12-2019, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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I heard that from someone else I was talking to tonight as well ...may be the case

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post #51 of 301 Old 10-12-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jchal3 View Post
Well I'm planning on running 35" tires, and I think the 2.73 would not be good at that. I've got everything for 4.88 except the front ring and pinion, I think that would suit the 35" better. Am I thinking correctly. I'm assuming the 2.73 38" combo I inherited is the reason I'm replacing an axle to begin with.

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I thought for any gearing above 2.73 you will need a new carrier [3.08 or higher] as well.

4.88 may require a bigger unit again...

anybody?

Looks to be the case with open type and trac lok

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/g2-amc...R-FCNB-65-2025

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #52 of 301 Old 10-13-2019, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yep. Looks like the case

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post #53 of 301 Old 10-14-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to wait on the hearing change and just get her up and running to see what other problems my need fixing...

Tonight I put in the driver side rear axle. Replaced the factory 2 piece with a one piece. Took me some time because it was new territory for me, but I feel like it went well and was able to drive it out of the garage when I was done. Pretty exciting considering it's the first time it's gone more than 200ft under it's own power since I've had it haha

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post #54 of 301 Old 10-15-2019, 01:41 AM
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I decided to wait on the hearing change and just get her up and running to see what other problems my need fixing...

Tonight I put in the driver side rear axle. Replaced the factory 2 piece with a one piece. Took me some time because it was new territory for me, but I feel like it went well and was able to drive it out of the garage when I was done. Pretty exciting considering it's the first time it's gone more than 200ft under it's own power since I've had it haha

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When you install one piece axles, make certain that the axles spin freely without binding after the installation is complete. If there is binding, check and look for the cause. Often, it is caused by differential thrust block interference. If that is the case, the thrust block should be removed.
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post #55 of 301 Old 10-15-2019, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchal3 View Post
I decided to wait on the hearing change and just get her up and running to see what other problems my need fixing...

Tonight I put in the driver side rear axle. Replaced the factory 2 piece with a one piece. Took me some time because it was new territory for me, but I feel like it went well and was able to drive it out of the garage when I was done. Pretty exciting considering it's the first time it's gone more than 200ft under it's own power since I've had it haha

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When you install one piece axles, make certain that the axles spin freely without binding after the installation is complete. If there is binding, check and look for the cause. Often, it is caused by differential thrust block interference. If that is the case, the thrust block should be removed.
It's also a check for preload on the new bearing. Dont want it too hard or too easy to spin by hand

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #56 of 301 Old 10-15-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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It seemed ok to me.... however it's the first time I've done that so who knows really. I'm gonna keep my eyes on it while I'm tooling around the lot. I can put it on the street yet anyway, it has some other needed items before it will pass vehicle inspection.

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post #57 of 301 Old 10-15-2019, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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It seemed ok to me.... however it's the first time I've done that so who knows really. I'm gonna keep my eyes on it while I'm tooling around the lot. I can put it on the street yet anyway, it has some other needed items before it will pass vehicle inspection.

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I meant cant put it on the street

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post #58 of 301 Old 10-16-2019, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have a good link to the wiring diagram for an 81 cj7. I tried the search but didnt do well.

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post #59 of 301 Old 10-16-2019, 08:25 AM
John Strenk
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Anyone have a good link to the wiring diagram for an 81 cj7. I tried the search but didnt do well.

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Here you go:
From the 81 FSM
Attached Files
File Type: pdf wiring_diagrams.pdf (2.24 MB, 12 views)


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post #60 of 301 Old 10-16-2019, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Here you go:
From the 81 FSM
Thanks for the file.. I'm a little confused how it goes together though. I'm assuming the 4cyl cj7 wiring is close enough to the v8.

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