1980 CJ7 fix up - JeepForum.com
 5Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 31 Old 07-28-2021, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
1980 CJ7 fix up

I've asked some questions on the forum and I thought I should start a thread. I bought a 1980 CJ7 the beginning of May that needs some work to get it roadworthy. It was non op when I bought it and I need to get it ready to pass California smog.

When I bought it it had a new alternator, fuel pump, starter and fuel tank. It also had an non compliant Chinese carb and HEI distributor. What drew me to this one is it has Dana 44 axles front and rear.

The PO removed the headlights. He bought some aftermarket headlights that were backordered for months. He sent them to me last week along with the original carb. My plan is to get it roadworthy, get it smogged and drive it. Long-term i want to put a Howell TBI on it.

I bought a MSD billet distributor, off road box and a Blaster 2 coil for $250. I thought that was a great deal.

I woke up with a sore throat today so I called in sick. Because of COVID we have to if we aren't 100%. I didn't feel achy or sick so I worked on the wiring under the dash.

Last weekend i made some ground bus bars out of some copper plates I had laying around the garage. I drilled and tapped a series of 10-32 holes down the length and a couple 1/4-24 hoes at one end for mounting and wire lugs. I plan on rewiring battery cables and running a 6 gauge wire to the bus bar. I have a bar for underhood and the rear of the Jeep as well. I'll connect them all with 6 gauge wire. Why 6 gauge? A friend gave me a spool of it. Ill buy 4 gauge for the battery when I do it.

Bus bar:

20210728_153024_1627512384891.jpg

Dash was on jackstands. It made wiring easy. I'm not done on there but close.

20210728_153034_1627512409422.jpg

20210728_153100_1627512466646.jpg

Mongo228 likes this.
Bob95065 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 31 Old 07-28-2021, 07:00 PM
Mongo228
Junior Member
 
Mongo228's Avatar
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa
Posts: 89
Garage
Nice!

What are the headlights? LED or incandescent?

I put the Howell on my rebuild ... when I finally managed to get it working, it's great!

Luck to you!

Dave
Mesa, AZ

"Grinders and Paint Make You The Welder You Ain't!" -- from a t-shirt
Mongo228 is offline  
post #3 of 31 Old 07-29-2021, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
There are OEM style sealed beam headlights on it. I want to keep it as original as I can.
Bob95065 is offline  
 
post #4 of 31 Old 07-30-2021, 10:42 AM
Mongo228
Junior Member
 
Mongo228's Avatar
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa
Posts: 89
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob95065 View Post
There are OEM style sealed beam headlights on it. I want to keep it as original as I can.
Gotcha.

I wanted to swap over to LEDs completely to reduce the power consumption and make things easier on the alternator. Running into blinker issues. Will be posting on that later.

Luck to you!

Dave
Mesa, AZ

"Grinders and Paint Make You The Welder You Ain't!" -- from a t-shirt
Mongo228 is offline  
post #5 of 31 Old 07-30-2021, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
I'll wire relays for the headlights along with a ground buss later. Right now I want to get it on the road.
Today I cleaned up the wiring under the hood and put it in wire looms. It isn't exactly what I want for the end configuration but it will work for now.

My oil sending unit doesn't work. I grounded the wire and the gauge worked so it has to be the sending unit. Easy fix.

I put the OEM CARB on the engine in place of the Asian copy. I took the carburetor apart before I put it on the engine and found that someone had rebuilt the carburetor before putting it on a shelf. Using the FSM I made sure it was assembled properly and put it on the engine. It fired right up and idled smooth. The electric choke didn't open even though it was getting power. I adjusted it so it was wide open and the engine ran like a sewing machine.

I got some vacuum lines and plumbed the emissions equipment. All the parts were there but the lines were missing. I'm ready to try smogging it.

My fuel gauge and temp gauge aren't working too. I checked the voltage at the strap and have 12v. I thought there was a regulator in there that brought it down to 5v. There is an open between the poles on the temp gauge do it may have been damaged when the regulator went. These are jobs for tomorrow. Also I'll post pictures tomorrow too.
Bob95065 is offline  
post #6 of 31 Old 07-31-2021, 04:42 AM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 22,623
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob95065 View Post
I'll wire relays for the headlights along with a ground buss later. Right now I want to get it on the road.
Today I cleaned up the wiring under the hood and put it in wire looms. It isn't exactly what I want for the end configuration but it will work for now.

My oil sending unit doesn't work. I grounded the wire and the gauge worked so it has to be the sending unit. Easy fix.

I put the OEM CARB on the engine in place of the Asian copy. I took the carburetor apart before I put it on the engine and found that someone had rebuilt the carburetor before putting it on a shelf. Using the FSM I made sure it was assembled properly and put it on the engine. It fired right up and idled smooth. The electric choke didn't open even though it was getting power. I adjusted it so it was wide open and the engine ran like a sewing machine.

Make sure the contacts touching the ring clamp on the choke housing is clean, This is how the ground is made on the e-choke.

Quote:
I got some vacuum lines and plumbed the emissions equipment. All the parts were there but the lines were missing. I'm ready to try smogging it.

My fuel gauge and temp gauge aren't working too. I checked the voltage at the strap and have 12v. I thought there was a regulator in there that brought it down to 5v. There is an open between the poles on the temp gauge do it may have been damaged when the regulator went. These are jobs for tomorrow. Also I'll post pictures tomorrow too.
Yes, there is a regulator in the fuel gauge. Make sure the fuel gauge is grounded any time power is applied to the gauges. A bad ground will give you a constant 12 volts where you measured the voltage at the strap between the two gauges.

Also there should be some resistance between the two posts on the temp gauge.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


I drive a Prius to save money and buy more Jeep Parts....
John Strenk is offline  
post #7 of 31 Old 07-31-2021, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Make sure the contacts touching the ring clamp on the choke housing is clean, This is how the ground is made on the e-choke.



Yes, there is a regulator in the fuel gauge. Make sure the fuel gauge is grounded any time power is applied to the gauges. A bad ground will give you a constant 12 volts where you measured the voltage at the strap between the two gauges.

Also there should be some resistance between the two posts on the temp gauge.
John,

Thank you for posting. After I posted last night I dug in online and with my gauges. I knew I wouldn't sleep unless I looked into it further. I am working with a cluster that I bought used because my original speedometer isn't working right. That and the new one looks a lot better than the original.

When I connect my fuel gauge it goes past full. Checked voltage at the A post and have 12V. I suspect that either the points fused together or one of the small wires inside bridged them. the net result is the regulator is malfunctioning.

I have the 5V regulator suggested in your Ghetto Fix thread coming. Amazon says it will be here tomorrow. This should fix that problem and replace the thermo-mechanical regulator with a more reliable regulator.

I checked the posts on my temp gauge and they are open. I checked the temp gauge out of the original cluster and it reads in spec. when the regulator arrives I'll be sure the fuel gauge is working then check the old temp gauge. If it is functioning correctly what I'll do is swap the temp gauge faces and paint the needles on all three so they match. I hope that temp gauge works.

If all of this comes together the malfunction will have benefitted me in the end. I see that external regulator as an improvement over stock. I really want to hang on to the OEM gauges and am thankful for your posts. Thanks again!
Bob95065 is offline  
post #8 of 31 Old 07-31-2021, 08:32 AM
jeepdaddy2000
Registered User
 
jeepdaddy2000's Avatar
1971 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Eagle Point
Posts: 9,440
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob95065 View Post
I woke up with a sore throat today so I called in sick. Because of COVID we have to if we aren't 100%. I didn't feel achy or sick so I worked on the wiring under the dash.
Yep.
You got the Jeep bug.
Chronic illness.

I'm anticipating more "sick days" in your future.........
John Strenk and sonnychiss like this.

Paperwork will ruin any military force.
Chesty Puller
jeepdaddy2000 is online now  
post #9 of 31 Old 07-31-2021, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
I talked to a friend who has a IH Scout. Over the years he's had 3 Scouts and several IH pickups. He is an electrical genius so I thought I would run my plan by him.

He's had similar problems with IH gauges and agreed my path forward is a sound plan. He made test boxes for gauges that output 5V and another that has a series of switches that vary input resistance. Sounds like just what I need for gauge calibration. I am looking forward to getting my hands on the external regulator tomorrow.
Bob95065 is offline  
post #10 of 31 Old 08-01-2021, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post


Make sure the contacts touching the ring clamp on the choke housing is clean, This is how the ground is made on the e-choke.
I took the carburetor off the engine and took the choke apart on my workbench. The linkage moved easily but I took the levers off and sanded the mating surfaces with 220 grit paper. I have some questions.

First, there is a hole on the lever that didn't have anything attached to it. That portion was over a cavity in the housing. I haven't taken one of these apart but it seems like a counterweight should be on that lever that would move up and down in that cavity. The counterweight would reduce the torque and therefore force required of the spring.

20210801_150818_1627859816306.jpg

20210801_153212_1627859841962.jpg

I checked the operation of the spring by marking the housing cold then connecting the ground and tab to the battery + and - terminals.

The white mark is where the tang was before power was applied. Is this enough movement?
20210801_154511_1627859969549.jpg

In order to close the choke i need to apply force to the lever. Is that correct? It really seems like this choke is missing something and I think that something is a counterweight. Can anyone confirm?

Thank you!
Bob95065 is offline  
post #11 of 31 Old 08-01-2021, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
I also forgot to say that the 5v regulator came. The fuel gauge works but reads high as I suspected. I need to get the resistor box from my friend to calibrate it and test the temp gauge. That will be this week.
Bob95065 is offline  
post #12 of 31 Old 08-01-2021, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
I skipped dinner to be sure I didn't do something stupid that would have caused the spring to rotate the opposite direction. Yes, this is driving me crazy. The spring rotated clockwise when looking at it or counter-clockwise when looking at the back of the black case. The lever needs to move clockwise to open the choke.

Either this spring is moving the opposite direction as it should or the choke linkage is connected incorrectly. Can anyone verify spring movement? Does anyone have a picture of their choke linkage they can post.
Bob95065 is offline  
post #13 of 31 Old 08-01-2021, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
Bob95065
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Felton
Posts: 61
I skipped dinner to be sure I didn't do something stupid that would have caused the spring to rotate the opposite direction. Yes, this is driving me crazy. The spring rotated clockwise when looking at it or counter-clockwise when looking at the back of the black case. The lever needs to move clockwise to open the choke.

Either this spring is moving the opposite direction as it should or the choke linkage is connected incorrectly. Can anyone verify spring movement? Does anyone have a picture of their choke linkage they can post?
Bob95065 is offline  
post #14 of 31 Old 08-01-2021, 11:36 PM
jeepdaddy2000
Registered User
 
jeepdaddy2000's Avatar
1971 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Eagle Point
Posts: 9,440
You install the tang of the coil into the slot on the lever. Then rotating the black cover will move the choke open or closed plate via the lever.
The hole in the housing is for an internal choke pull off.

There is supposed to be a piston in there connected to the lever.

The choke is fully closed, When the engine starts manifold vacuum pulls the piston down in the bore opening the choke plate slightly.
Some crossover years had the old style housing without the internal pull off piston. You will have to post some pictures of your housing and side of the carb for us to see what you're running.
Attached Images
   
John Strenk likes this.

Paperwork will ruin any military force.
Chesty Puller
jeepdaddy2000 is online now  
post #15 of 31 Old 08-02-2021, 02:59 AM
keith460
Web Wheeler
 
keith460's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Doylestown, PA
Posts: 9,375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob95065 View Post
Either this spring is moving the opposite direction as it should or the choke linkage is connected incorrectly. Can anyone verify spring movement? Does anyone have a picture of their choke linkage they can post?

I don't know if these two pictures will help, but I have an NOS 1980 Carter BBD on my 258 engine I bought a couple of years ago. Currently the manifolds are off the engine so engine can be painted.


carb1.jpgcarb2.jpg

.
1984 CJ-7 Renegade
__________________
keith460 is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome