1980 CJ5 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 71 Old 01-05-2016, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
jgentri
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Red face 1980 CJ5 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

The mechanical clutch linkage assembly failed, so I've decided to replace it with an hydraulic system. I've installed everything, but the Jeep won't go into gear, I think because the travel on the slave cylinder is insufficient. I could use a recommendation for a slave cylinder that will work. The Jeep is a 1980 CJ5 6 cylinder. I don't know which transmission it's got, but I can get that information quickly if necessary. I know this is a pretty common mod, so I'm hoping one of you gents would be so kind as to point me in the right direction.

Cheers,
Jon

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post #2 of 71 Old 01-05-2016, 06:45 PM
CSP
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What parts did you use (to avoid recommending the parts you already have)?
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post #3 of 71 Old 01-05-2016, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
jgentri
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I believe I used this one:

http://www.autozone.com/1/products/1...ast-11956.html

It mounts to the transmission properly and moves the lever, but apparently not enough.
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post #4 of 71 Old 01-05-2016, 07:00 PM
CSP
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So how about an application that you used when buying parts? That looks like the 80s CJ four cylinder slave, but that's an assumption.


What about the rest of it? What master did you use? Did you bleed the system properly? Feel free to include more info than what's asked.
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post #5 of 71 Old 01-05-2016, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
jgentri
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Sorry if I came off a little disinterested! This jeep fights me every step of the way, and I think I'm a little fed up with it! I believe I used this. I could not find line I was very happy with so I ended up using some hard line adapters from O'Reilly that had the right size threading on one side, then I used a foot long segment of rubber fuel line over the end of the hardline coming off of both cylinders, and tightened them down with some screw-type line fasteners. I felt that this was a possible point of failure, but the slave moves when the pedal is depressed, so it doesn't seem as though the line is the problem. This is the pedal I used. Oh, and I did bleed the system and checked it for basic function. Everything seems to be working...the jeep just wont go into gear. I even tried starting it in reverse (at the suggestion of a mechanic friend) since the jeep has been sitting for several months to try to get the clutch to separate. No dice.
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post #6 of 71 Old 01-05-2016, 09:19 PM
numbersix
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Quote:
been sitting for several months to try to get the clutch to separate.
Are you saying you've pulled the transmission and the clutch disc won't come out? If the disc was installed backwards, that would prevent you from putting the transmission into gear. Can you put the transmission into gear with the engine off?

1952 Willys M38 (to be restored)
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post #7 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 06:09 AM
orange150
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I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think you can use standard rubber fuel hose for your clutch since it will bulge.

I called Advanced Adapters when I did my AX15 swap and had them put together the correct fittings and hose for my application. http://www.advanceadapters.com/categ...ngs--hoses/71/


I may have missed it, but what transmission do you have?

'82 CJ-8
258/AX15/D300
OME YJ 2.5"/31s
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post #8 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
jgentri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numbersix View Post
Are you saying you've pulled the transmission and the clutch disc won't come out? If the disc was installed backwards, that would prevent you from putting the transmission into gear. Can you put the transmission into gear with the engine off?
I haven't pulled the transmission. The guy just said that sometimes the clutch will stick if it's been sitting around for a while and to try to start it in reverse. Not knowing much about the transmission I just gave it a shot and deferred to his knowledge. He may have been full it, but I was willing to give anything a try.
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post #9 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
jgentri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange150 View Post
I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think you can use standard rubber fuel hose for your clutch since it will bulge.

I called Advanced Adapters when I did my AX15 swap and had them put together the correct fittings and hose for my application. http://www.advanceadapters.com/categ...ngs--hoses/71/


I may have missed it, but what transmission do you have?
I'll have to go take a look at the transmission today and get back to you on that. Thank you for the link. I will try that to rule out the hose being the issue. At the very least, the install will look better. Who knows, might even solve the problem.
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post #10 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 12:59 PM
John Strenk
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Well Yes, sometimes the clutch will rust to the flywheel. But not usually in several months.

How much is the slave cylinder rod moving?

Since it failed with the mechanical system and doesn't work with the new system.
I would start to suspect something wrong with the install of the clutch. or at least the clutch arm.

Check the throw on the slave cylinder first. we can move on from there.

Also, I don't think rubber fuel line will work either. Besides not being compatible with hydraulic fluid.


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I drive a Prius to save money and buy more Jeep Parts....
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post #11 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
jgentri
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I took a few pictures for your guys. I'd guess the slave moves maybe 1.5," which seems to be its normal operational limit, given the size of the cylinder and rod. I can actually measure it in a couple hours though.

Here's a close up of the line http://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzh3...ew?usp=sharing

Here you can see the housing of the slave mounts to the transmission but the rod is cocked off slightly. This is also a potential problem, but I think it's probably close enough since the rod still travels.http://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzh3...ew?usp=sharing

http://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzh3...ew?usp=sharing


Is this enough to ID the Transmission?http://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzh3...ew?usp=sharing
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post #12 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 02:25 PM
stamp32
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That line will not work. It should be a proper hydraulic line.

http://www.morris4x4center.com/clutc...e-5361469.html

Also, this is a pivot that should be on the end of the rod of the slave cylinder. It will add around 1/2" of length.

http://www.morris4x4center.com/clutc...y-3217479.html


I bet the fuel line of the making shift line is bulging, and not giving the full psi to the slave cylinder.

-Chris
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post #13 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgentri View Post
Is this enough to ID the Transmission?http://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzh3...ew?usp=sharing
I can't help you with the clutch issue, but that's a T176 transmission casting number.

Matt


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post #14 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 10:35 PM
cblair2011
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I used a wilwood master and wilwood pull style slave. Had to build custom bracket and plastic coated stainless line. Clutch is very smooth and so happy I went this route.
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post #15 of 71 Old 01-06-2016, 10:37 PM
cblair2011
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Go to your local hydraulic hose and supply store. Usually 3/8 inch brake line does the trick.
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