1980 CJ 7 Resurrection (Klooge) - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 148 Old 02-11-2021, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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As promised, pics of the roll bar removed.

Here it is, out completely. Not the rust on the undersides of the mounting points. Salvageable? We'll see.

out.jpg

These are the spots on the body ... driver's upright, driver's support, pax support, pax upright. The pax upright location is going to be one helluva repair.

driver-upright.jpg

driver-support.jpg

pax-support.jpg

pax-upright.jpg

I'll work on cleaning things up a bit more this weekend and post more pics.


Dave
Mesa, AZ

"Grinders and Paint Make You The Welder You Ain't!" -- from a t-shirt
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post #17 of 148 Old 02-26-2021, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, it's been a while.

A bit catch-up --

1. The engine is out and on a stand.

well-its-holding.jpg

heartless.jpg

2. Firewall actually looks pretty decent.

firewall-looks-good.jpg

3. The EPA outlawed methylene chloride in (I think) 2019. Without that, strippers just don't work as well. I went through most of a quart of Citristrip ... um ... useless. Went to Rustoleum Aircraft Stripper ... better, but still not "great."

curse-you-epa.jpg

4. Testing non-chemical means of stripping on the floors ... effective, but DIRTY. Need to use the shop vac as a dust collector.

testing-non-chemical-stripping-methods.jpg

5. I've had to drill out more bolts on the windshield hinges (3/8). They're off, though. They took most of the sheet metal with them. They'd been on there for 41 years ... not surprised.

6. Looks like the dash/windshield/cowl mount are all 16 gauge. I think I have enough for repairs, at least for the hinge areas. What's going to be a pain is getting the hinge pillars out. I got whole new ones ... may not "need" complete new ones, but would be nice to have them in there!!

7. The floors are a grab bag of good/bad metal, odd bolts (WTF are THESE for????), and insane patches. Looks like they did a "skin graft" from what may have been a GM vehicle (looks like a GM shade of blue) to patch the driver floorboard. The just welding a chunk of 1/8" plate on the pax side.

Here's a YouTube video update. Still learning how to use the video editor. I figured out the bracing/holes were for the spare tire carrier (which Klooge did NOT have). It's a Cardone steering gear box, with a Saginaw pump.


More to come in a few days!!

Dave
Mesa, AZ

"Grinders and Paint Make You The Welder You Ain't!" -- from a t-shirt
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post #18 of 148 Old 02-26-2021, 08:49 PM
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Glad to see progress Dave
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post #19 of 148 Old 02-27-2021, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Got an early start, and got a fair amount done.

First, snapped a pic of the "old" whiteboard list for posterity.

old-board.jpg

Then, wrote out the list of stuff to do as the "new whitboard."

new-board.jpg

Made final preps for body removal. A buddy of mine (Gregg) came over to help.

prep-body-off-work.jpg

Got the body off the frame and out to the driveway, where we washed about 10 pounds of mud, dirt, rat's nests, etc., off.

body-getting-some-drying-time-after-wash.jpg

We got the tub back in the garage. Took some pictures of the windshield hinge mount points. OEM hinges had never been pulled.

drvr-side-lower-windshield-hinge-loc.jpg

pax-side-lower-windhsield-hinge.jpg

Rolled the frame out, hosed it off, and got it back in the garage. Tight tolerances in there now!

tight-tolerances-here.jpg


And here's a link to the YouTube video:

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post #20 of 148 Old 03-08-2021, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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Progress has been made.

I'm working on a few things at once.

First, here's my first attempt at a patch panel, lying in its intended final location. I plan on cutting out the wheel arch and plug welding it to the patch panel.

where-panel-will-eventually-end-up.jpg

Been working on stripping everything off the frame. Turns out I have the "factory feature" of a bit of a twist to the frame. It's not bad, between 1/2" to 3/4". Once I get everything squared away and re-assembled, there shouldn't be any problems. I definitely need to replace 3 of the frame-to-body mount points. I have most all of the parts I NEED now. Bonus this summer will pay for the rest.

room-what-s-.jpg

I never in my life thought I would have a vehicle to this point of disassembly.

well-there-.jpg
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post #21 of 148 Old 03-09-2021, 08:04 AM
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Nice tear down, I need to do exactly the same thing, I will be watching your progress... my frame looks like yours does, including body mounts.
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post #22 of 148 Old 03-09-2021, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo228 View Post
Progress has been made.

I'm working on a few things at once.
Nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo228 View Post
I never in my life thought I would have a vehicle to this point of disassembly.

Attachment 3971727
A bit unnerving, isn't it? LOL! At least it's a properly framed vehicle - imagine getting this far with a unibody car. LMAO!!

You got this!

Eric


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post #23 of 148 Old 03-09-2021, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwwhaler View Post
Nice tear down, I need to do exactly the same thing, I will be watching your progress... my frame looks like yours does, including body mounts.
Thank you!

There are still some bits to be removed, but I need the rear frame pieces from Rust Buster. Until I get those, I'll finish pulling off bits, power off the rust, put on two coats of Rust Bullet, and wait for the frame rail chunks to come in. Install them and the new cross member, paint it all black, and hopefully be able to start re-assembly of the driveline.

Dave
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post #24 of 148 Old 03-09-2021, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister4x4 View Post
Nice!



A bit unnerving, isn't it? LOL! At least it's a properly framed vehicle - imagine getting this far with a unibody car. LMAO!!

You got this!

I should probably just pick something and stick with it. But, I have to admit, wish I had the energy a Jack Russell does!

And yeah, I'm glad I am dealing with a full frame, and not unibody. ./shudder
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post #25 of 148 Old 03-22-2021, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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Time for a bit of an update.


So, I figured I would need a metal brake at some point, but I'm working in some limits, namely space and budget. So, for about $48, I made a "poor man's" brake out of some angle iron, carriage bolts, regular bolts, nuts, and washers. It's not exactly what I wanted ... I wound up grabbing 1.5" angle instead of 2". The 1.5" was IN the 2" slot. My bad for not checking, but trusting the store. Learning has occurred. At any rate, for doing bends in 18 ga sheet, it will suffice, especially for my needs.


there-.jpg


I have wire-wheeled the frame, and coated it with Metal Blast. Rusting stopped on the surface. Now, to start removing and replacing rotted metal. Some dismemberment pics.


Pax side marked out ...

pax-side-marked-cutting.jpg


Driver side marked out ...

driver-side-marked-cutting.jpg


Getting rid of the cross member ...

dismemberment-begins.jpg


Pax side chunk cut off ...

driver-lopped.jpg


Driver side removed ...

pax-disintgument.jpg


With the chunks cut, now it's time to start doing templates.


That "double" tab? Yeah. Water had gotten into the structure of the steel and started working from the inside out. Made the steel puff up like baklava!


making-template.jpg


Here are the templates on contractor paper, the stuff they tape down to walk on. It's pretty tough!


i-need-cnc-plasma-table.jpg


Shortly after transferring the templates to 3/16" plate, I realized I would LOVE to have a CNC plasma table! But, see above re: space, budget.


templates-transferred-one-piece-cut.jpg


So, I got one piece cut out last night, and a few more today. This is muckin' about with the long strap and clamps. I have a lot more cutting, fitting, trimming, fitting, drilling, and welding to do. By tracing the parts as I did, it leaves me room to fit and trim down as needed. Easier to grind down excess than to try to ADD metal!
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the power of clamps.jpg  
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post #26 of 148 Old 03-22-2021, 11:23 AM
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YEAH....Klooge still has a pulse
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post #27 of 148 Old 03-23-2021, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, he sure does! It might be a bit faint, but it's there!


Today was about repairing the carnage from yesterday. And, before anyone starts in on "rusty welding," the weld points were bright, shiny metal. And I know, my welds are heinous. Not really used to do "vertical" welding.



frame-repair-one.jpg


uglier-than-homemade-soap.jpg


Here's the one horizontal weld I did today ... best stringer of the day!


best-string-day.jpg


"The only reason my welds look pro is because of my pro grinding skills!" I can't remember who said that, but it's totally true.


ground-welds.jpg


I know the welds will hold pretty well. They held while I used a clamp to mold the strap to side piece. Didn't even hear any cracks, plinks, pinks, or tinks!


actually-looking-like-frame-rail.jpg


I figure once I have the repairs done as boxed "U" sections, I'll to a dry run test fit for the rear cross member. That will also allow me to get the shackle hanger holes drilled and nuts welded in. Once THAT'S done, get everything on the tail end ready to rock for final welds. Then I will turn my attention to the crack in the front pax inside rail. NOT pleasant. The crack actually runs from the sway bar bracket mount point forward, running "through" the cross member. Still, once I get the rusty bits fixed, time for encapsulation and painting.
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post #28 of 148 Old 04-12-2021, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so, need to do some updating.

Got the back end of the frame squared away. Finished fabrication on the rail extensions, and got the crossmember installed. My welding is improving. Helps to have the correct settings on the welder.

not-pretty-but-will-hold.jpg

better-than-other-side.jpg

mockup-without-jack-stand.jpg

even-level-woot.jpg

I was just thrilled that I managed 2 things:

1. My measurements and fabrication landed me 1/16" shy of factory!
2. I managed to make sure everything came out level!

Ah, sway bar mounts. Wallowed out holes where "captured" nuts used to be. Gaping holes in frames that were hidden behind "fix" plates. What to do? I debated for quite some time. Do I go the route the PO did, using "loose" nuts, and having to stick wrenches through massive holes in the frame? Do I try to get back to factory, with nuts welded to the inside of the frame? Or, do I just weld the bloody things to the frame and have done?

As you can see, I welded the mounts to the frame. Again, heinous welds, but I am a totally novice, self-taught welder.

swaybar-mount-over-gaping-hole.jpg

I did patch the gaping wound in the frame.

swaybar-mount-no-more-hole.jpg

Next up was some paint work ... Rust Bullet on the bottom "strap" of the frame and some cross members. Was going to put some Black Shell on, too, but was reminded that any welding I might do close to the paint might undo my work.

100_0323.jpg

So, I stopped with the paint, righted the frame, and got to work on the body mount issue. Three of the factory mounts were pretty much useless. But, the replacement mounts I found from Throttle Down Kustoms came in a set. So, all the factory mounts got cut/chiseled off, and the new ones from TDK got welded in.

If you're in the market for new mount points, I highly recommend TDK. Check their work at the link above.

new.jpg

pax-side-positioned.jpg

Stay tuned ... more updates will be posted! Working on getting the frame painted since I'm done with welding. I think.
Attached Thumbnails
what is left of pax wheel well end.jpg  
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post #29 of 148 Old 04-12-2021, 12:32 PM
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Lookin' good neighbor
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post #30 of 148 Old 04-14-2021, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update ...

Got the frame all painted up in Rust Bullet with a coat of Black Shell over that. All shiny!

piano-black.jpg

Started in on the front axle, but out of Rustoleum. Will get more this weekend. I have drilled out the yokes on both axles for u-bolt clamps for the u-joints. The "straps" tend to weaken and break a bit too easily for my taste.

next-up.jpg

A couple of snaps of Klooge back on his own wheels! Well, the REAR wheels, at least!!

rear-wheels-back.jpg

rear-wheels.jpg
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