4" will fit the tires, but you will rub the trailing edge of the rear fender if you flex it out good. You can space out your bump stops to keep it from rubbing. You will also want a outset wheel or wheel spacers to clear the leaf springs when turning.
Your tyres have 7" greater diameter than stock, so vertically it needs at least 4". However they are also longer by 7" so they do not fit the rear wheel boxes, hence rubbing. Without changing the metalwork, you will need to get higher and then limit travel so it does not hit. Hence 6". If you were to hack metal the lift could be lower, and there would be some advantage in keeping the centre of gravity lower whilst increasing the gap under the axles.
At the front the length of the tyres and width will interfere with the suspension on a small amount of lock. You will need to get the tyres further out and then play with the stops to avoid fouling. You could take off the fenders and go to a tube fender to get better clearances.
You will then need to look at many aspects from brake hose length to pitman arm drop to make it work.
It can be done, it just depends on how much you're willing to cut on it. I ran 37's on 2.5" lift springs for the longest time, but i run tube fenders in the front, and had to do a fair amount of trimming in the rear. It works though. Its a matter of how ambitious you are, and how fond of factory sheet metal you are.
I'm running a RE4.5" lift and 1" body lift. My 35's rubbed really bad. I cut the sheet metal and put on them flats and have zero issues with hitting the body. I know a lot of people hate the things flares but I think form follows function
I have a 6" and 33's, not even close to rubbing. I plan on putting it back down to stock ride height, not into climbing up that much, and I would have to do a gear change to slow it down. 30 mph in first gear, not cool. I don't know who made it, it came with the jeep.
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