1977 CJ7 Green Chile Build - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-24-2019, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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1977 CJ7 Green Chile Build

Well for the few who followed my other post where it was started more of a question thread, then I turned it into a build thread. So I decided to start a build thread. So sorry if the first few posts are repetitive what already has been posted. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/1...-swap-4333337/

So back in July 2018 I bought a 1977 Jeep CJ7 4.2 6 cly. My plan is to keep her stock looking, maybe modernize things but keep the vintage look to it. The first thing I did was rebuild the entire brake system, as I was only able to test drive it for a few mins due to extremely bad brakes. Next, I did a tune up spark plugs, wires, oil, air, and fuel filters etc, even motor and transmission mounts. I quickly realized how much manual brakes and manual steering sucks. I just finished doing a power brake upgrade I'll write up a post on it. And I am still getting parts together for the power steering upgrade. I recently rebuilt the Carter YF carb. I am contemplating swapping to a Motorcraft 2150 which is what I see most people recommend swapping to.

















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post #2 of 17 Old 03-24-2019, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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I just did an HEI conversation on my Jeep. I had the Prestolite (I believe that is what it is was) I got my HEI from Ebay and the plug wires from a 1980 Ford Fairmont I6 (8mm) from Napa. The install was easy, just hook up the power/ignition wire. Since my coil positive wire was 12v, all I needed was an extension wire to reach the cap stud; since I didn't have a resistor in-line I was able to reuse that same wire. I installed Champion spark plugs and gapped them to .040. I set the timing to 8 deg, it felt better at 8 vs 6 deg (I'm at 1-mile elevation) It does run smoother, it was worth it.



Manual brakes suck! I'll start off with that. So I found a brake booster and bracket from a YJ on Ebay, I paid $50. I had to buy another new brake master cylinder for the YJ power brakes ( I just bought a new manual MC a few months ago). The bracket mounting holes were already there, so it was an easy bolt on. The brake lines needed an adapter from Napa to bolt up to the YJ master cylinder. They need to be repositioned, then re-bleed the brakes and the upgrade was done.

(1) Weather head Part # 7917
(1) Weather head Part # 7912

Now how do they feel? 1000 times better!! Easy to push, they feel like a modern vehicle brake system. 100% worth it.












Here are some great links
http://street2mud.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=28
http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/brakes.htm
https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic...ter-swap-easy/

What is worse than manual brakes, manual steering! I hate it, you have to fight for every inch of steering when at slow to no speed. So, of course, the next upgrade is the power steering.

I found a rebuilt YJ power steering gear box locally for a good price. I bought a power steering pump and brackets for a 4.2 on eBay. The hoses got a little complicated. The YJ pump and gearbox uses different fittings than the CJ. The return line is easy, just got the correct fitting (available at any auto parts store) for the YJ gearbox and on the pump side is an open-ended hose. For the high-pressure hose, I found some fittings for AC lines (Male O ring to Male Flare fitting), I ordered a small kit off of eBay. Like this one, I believe it was the #6 in the kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MALE-O-RING...frcectupt=true
I saw that some guys will just take the two different hoses apart and get a hydraulic shop to splice them together.

The power steering pitman arm is different, Omix-Ada 18006.01 5356104
The last piece of the puzzle is the steering shaft, the coupler to the gear-box is different for the power steering gearbox. It was an easy install on to the stock steering shaft. The power steering coupler is easily found from Omix-Ada. Steering Shaft Coupling Kit for Power Steering 18018.06

Now how does it work/feel? It works great, feels like modern vehicles power steering. It worth every penny. This needs to be the very first upgrade anyone does if you have manual steering.









Ever since I got the Jeep I've always noticed a gas smell from the rear of the Jeep. I thought maybe a leaking line or hose, but no luck finding it. I finally dropped the gas tank to look for it. Turns out, sure enough, the gas tank was rusted out in some spots and the previous owner tried to repair it by putting globs of epoxy on the rust holes. So I bought a new tank shipped to my door for $80 on eBay. I replaced the sending unit while it was down as well as new rubber lines and cleaned up the ground stud. I was going to replace the filler hose and vent hose, but the 77 model version was expensive, by memory was $50 for one hose and $20 for the other, so I skipped it. I got a lockable gas tank cap locally for $10 or so.









I don't know if I mentioned it, I installed a clear fuel filter as well as 2 check valves, one on the input and one on the return.







The engine oil pan was leaking bad and was dented probably due to offroading, as well as missing a few bolts, a few were broken in the block. It took a lot of patience while drilling out the broken bolts and try to use an easy out. The easy out worked on a few and a few I had to drill and tap a few. I ordered a new pan from Rockauto as well as a 1 piece gasket. I found out both motor mounts were bad, so I replaced them. I later found out the rear main seal was leaking as well so I had to remove the pan once more to replace it.

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post #3 of 17 Old 03-24-2019, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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This weekend I started the rebuild of the front bumper that came on my 77 CJ7. It is home built with 1/4in steel plate and 1/4in C-Chanel. The previous owner was a crazy old 80-year-old guy who welded the bumper with the worst welds I ever saw. This crazy old man was welding with oxygen on, he caught his nose on fire, twice. A complete teardown and rebuild was necessary. Also, I cut off literally a foot off of the bumper.

Here is a quick test fit of the newly rebuilt bumper loosely installed. I am waiting for some D-Ring mounts to come in to weld it on before paint and final install.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-...72.m2749.l2649

Here is the final product. I ordered up some D-Ring shackle mounts and welded them up, then painted the bumper. I found YJ rear bumper with a hitch receiver built in. I modified the rear bumper to fit the CJ rear cross-member, I modified the bumper's mount to extend it to fit all the mounting holes. I drilled holes in the mount to use all 10 bolt holes using 1/2in grade 8 bolts. I also welded in the D-Ring shackle mounts. Both bumpers use 1/4in steel, very heavy duty. I love them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-...72.m2749.l2649

When I got the CJ, it came with a new 12,000lb winch. I bought a TJ winch mount and made it fit my front bumper, and mounted them down with 1/2in grade 8 bolts.
Just like this one. https://www.ebay.com/p/Winch-Mountin...p2047675.l2644
I got it wired up and it works.







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post #4 of 17 Old 03-24-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the transmission (T150) and transfer-case (Dana 20) to replace seals, as it was leaking bad. I thought it was a good time to check the clutch since I have it all apart.

Turns out the U-joints on the driveshafts needed replacing, input and output seals, the transmission to the transfer-case gasket, transmission mount. I had to get a new flywheel, so I ordered one including a new clutch kit from Rockauto. I ordered the same kind of pressure plate as my original one which was the kind with 3 fingers. Turns out when I installed it I had issues with the throw out bearing lining up, as well as with the clutch pedal being soo hard to press. I ordered a new kit with the diaphragm style and the throw out bearing lined up and now the pedal feels normal. I did order a throw out bearing that is adjustable from, but I didn't need it after all since the diaphragm clutch made the stock style bearing work. https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/...owout-bearings

When I pulled off the transmission and transfer case and bell housing everything was soaked in 40+ Years in grease and oil. It took me forever to clean up. I used a wire wheel on an angle grinder, which worked great but left me covered in the dirt and oil. I wish I took a picture of the way it looked before, here is the before picture of the bell housing, and the pictures of after cleaning.













A couple of small things is that I mounted up a small fuse panel for accessories like a radio or interior lights and others. I used a buss fuse holder to match the OEM fuse panel.


The 77 didn't (and I don't think any CJ) had a cab heater output only vent for the windshield or for the floor. While replacing the heater box to vent hose, I saw there was another vent port. I was able to get another hose onto the outlet and hooked it up to a universal vintage looking vent outlet off of eBay. It works great! I love it. Anyone who says CJ's can't warm up the cab needs to do this upgrade because it gets hot quick.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-V...72.m2749.l2649







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post #5 of 17 Old 03-24-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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I found a set of black rims on Craigslist, I paid $60 for the set. Someone actually spray painted them black. I took acetone to the wheel and cleaned off the spray paint and revealed to be what I believe is the Wagon wheels. There is a little bit of rust and some paint chipping. Maybe one day I'll get them stripped and repainted, but for now, they should look better than what the Jeep came with when I bought it.









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post #6 of 17 Old 03-24-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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After the HEI upgrade, the engine still was giving me issues. So I decided to upgrade the carb. After research, it appears the Motorcraft 2100 is the best upgrade, I live in high elevation so the 2150 was my choice as it is for high altitude. I ordered a MC2150 rebuilt from Holly. I found a 2 barrel intake on ebay, only to find out by the time I got it, that it was for a newer 4.2 with a shorter mounting boss. Since the intake and exhaust manifolds need to match, I had to get a matching exhaust manifold, I ordered a brand new one. I used grade 8 bolts and new gaskets. The EGR valve location was blocked off, I made one out of a 3/8in aluminum plate. I got an adapter from Mr Gasket 1937 Rochester to Holley. Now here comes the first issue, the 2150 has a slightly different base than the 2100, there was a large gap that would cause a vacuum leak. I found a plastic phenolic spacer, but turns out that one side was not flat and caused a leak, so I used a thick gasket to seal it up.

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...t/67598_0_1871

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...1_0_1871_16849

I got 46 & 47 jets, I started with the 46 but I felt like It was lacking power. So, I stepped up to the #47 jets. I feel like 47 will do.

Next was to install relays one to power up the HEI, one to power up the choke and intake manifold heater and turn it off when the intake coolant switch opens. Since I was at it, I added relays for the headlights and reinforced the grounds.

Here are a few pictures of the carb adapter installed.







Here is the throttle cable bracket I fabricated.


Here is the EGR delete plated I fabricated.


Here is the Motorcraft 2150A installed.



The throttle return spring installed. I found this bracket when I tore down the old exhaust manifold.






I needed an intake air cleaner that would clear the brake master cylinder since the new brake booster moved it in the way of a stock style 2 barrel unit. The smallest air cleaner that looked good was the triangle Edelbrock air cleaner.
https://www.autozone.com/intake-syst...kit/500009_0_0


The stock air cleaner wouldn't fit, I search the junkyard to find a suitable unit, with no luck. Since the carb is so close to the brake master cylinder I would need an offset housing. The stock Jeep offset housing (I call it the millenium falcon) won't fit the MC2150 base. I belive there is an adapter, but those housings are rare, ebay has them but for $150 (no thanks).

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post #7 of 17 Old 07-07-2019, 12:31 AM
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Nice. Looks familiar. Mine is an '81 and it's the same color.
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-20-2019, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Since the last update, I've gotten a lot of work done. I've now got it registered and I'm driving it daily. I love this Jeep!

So I hated the manual clutch, the friction point was soo hard to get right, probably due to all the wear on all of the linkages throughout the years.
I bought rebuilt units from Rockauto including a master cylinder clutch cylinder and hose for a 1980 CJ 4 cly.

Let me tell you, the difference is night and day. The clutch feels like a modern clutch pedal.


I believe the later years of CJ's have an indention on the firewall of where the master cylinder location is, but my 77 does not. So careful measurements were taken, and I had to drill the center pilot hole for the hole saw.






The hardest part was removing and reinstalling the pedal assembly, I cut off the rivets for the return spring/ stop bracket.
I drilled and tapped for the master cylinder pin.










I found this adjustable pushrod that was perfect. (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pushr...nder,7051.html) I built a bracket for the clutch cylinder out of 3/8in steel.





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post #9 of 17 Old 10-20-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I got some new tires, they may be street tires and not offroading tires, but they will due till I have enough money for some larger beefier tires.

I love the way the white wheels look on the Jeep, they really do give it a vintage look.





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post #10 of 17 Old 10-20-2019, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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One small but troublesome project was the gas filler neck. My filler neck leaked at the cap due to the inner tabs were worn down and wouldn't create a good seal. On the 77's they had a large 2.25 in the filler neck, later years there was a 1in filler neck. There is an Omix ada replacement for 78-up CJ's, but not 77. So I had to find fuel rated adapters/reducers to go from 2.25in down to 1in.

Now it seals great! No more spills on hard turns, no more fuel fumes leaking. Best of all I can fill up full throttle no half holding the lever and turning it to keep it from overfilling.


I did it in 4 pieces.

1in-1.5in
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-t...apter-25-38mm/

A 1.5 to 1.75in hose adapter I found on Ebay
A 1.75 to 2in pipe adapter found on Ebay
2-2.25in

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/tan...25-tnk-gh2225/





I got new hoses for the new filler neck.



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post #11 of 17 Old 10-22-2019, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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When I got the Jeep, the spare tire swing carrier was soo heavy it was flexing the body so I removed it. I actually stole this spare tire carrier from my travel trailer and bolt it down to a hitch receiver I made, I mounted the rim mount to it to make the tire fit. This tire carrier swings down and I locked it with hitch pin.

I want to build a bumper swing carrier, but until I get the materials together at least I have one. Here is one of the weld on bearing pivots. https://www.amazon.com/EMS-Offroad-Carrier-Hinge-Latch

Has anyone used one of these before?







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post #12 of 17 Old 10-22-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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My Jeep didn't come factory with a radio, there is a delete cover plate. I actually like the look of it. I want to keep the original look of dask, it doesn't look right when there is a nice clean vintage dash with a modern stereo in it. I see the center consoles with a stereo cubby that is lockable. But I only see single DIN centers, I have a great double-DIN unit that I will want to use.

Has anyone found a Double DIN center console?

For temporary until I get the lockable center I modified this cheesy console. I mounted up the stereo. I found some outdoor rated speaker boxes that I mounted up 2 in the rear and one larger one in the front. I'm assuming the early CJ's only had one stock speaker grill in the dash, so I mounted up a speaker in there, so I have 2 speakers upfront. The sound may not be the best system around, but it is enough for me. I think I will get those speakers that go behind the rear seats next to the fender well as well as a speaker bar on top.











Also, I installed an RV light as a dome light, it works great. Love it!

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post #13 of 17 Old 10-23-2019, 06:30 AM
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I suggest you dump the Edelbrock air cleaner. It is designed for street/strip use and won't filter dust effectively.


Quote:
Next was to install relays one to power up the HEI, one to power up the choke and intake manifold heater and turn it off when the intake coolant switch opens.
Make sure the relay running the choke isn't turning off.


You need to insure the gasket at the rear of the carb is supported, otherwise you run the risk of a vacuum leak in the future. You might try a felpro60529 spacer/gasket.

The duty of a patriot is to protect his country from it's government
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post #14 of 17 Old 10-23-2019, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
I suggest you dump the Edelbrock air cleaner. It is designed for street/strip use and won't filter dust effectively.



Make sure the relay running the choke isn't turning off.


You need to insure the gasket at the rear of the carb is supported, otherwise you run the risk of a vacuum leak in the future. You might try a felpro60529 spacer/gasket.
The choke is a dedicated line the intake manifold is run off of the relay.

I'm on the lookout for a large enough air filter housing that will work as it needs to have an offset with the brake booster in the way but not restrict the air unlike using the stock 1 barrel offset housings. I got an early Bronco II air cleaner assembly but I need to tweek it to make it fit. Yes, the open-air filter will not be permanent, as I stated in the above post.

The carb does have the correct gasket to seal up the backend as the MC 2100's have a different shape than the 2150's. There is a photo above.
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post #15 of 17 Old 10-23-2019, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
The carb does have the correct gasket to seal up the backend as the MC 2100's have a different shape than the 2150's. There is a photo above.
A standard gasket can fall away from the base and cause an intake leak. The felpro "gasket" I listed is actually a copy of the phenolic spacer ford used.

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