1976 CJ New Temp Guage moving opposite direction - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-15-2019, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
Mgoodrich26
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1976 CJ New Temp Guage moving opposite direction

Thanks to all the helpful information on this forum I have made progress on the dash of my new Jeep. Blinkers, cluster lights, guage lights, hazards and taillights all now working. I installed a new headlight switch and ran a ground from battery to dash board right below cluster. I installed a new temp and fuel guage into the original cluster with a new wire going directly to the new temp sending unit. Iím not surprised fuel guage doesnít work as Iím guessing I need to replace the sending unit but was really hoping the temp guage would work yet instead the needle moves all the way to the left (left of C) to the point I canít see it anymore as soon as I turn on the ignition. I havenít seen this same problem on the forum so could really use some help. Any ideas?

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post #2 of 12 Old 04-15-2019, 09:07 PM
BagusJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgoodrich26 View Post
Thanks to all the helpful information on this forum I have made progress on the dash of my new Jeep. Blinkers, cluster lights, guage lights, hazards and taillights all now working. I installed a new headlight switch and ran a ground from battery to dash board right below cluster. I installed a new temp and fuel guage into the original cluster with a new wire going directly to the new temp sending unit. Iím not surprised fuel guage doesnít work as Iím guessing I need to replace the sending unit but was really hoping the temp guage would work yet instead the needle moves all the way to the left (left of C) to the point I canít see it anymore as soon as I turn on the ignition. I havenít seen this same problem on the forum so could really use some help. Any ideas?
You have a high resistance. A lot of us have non-functioning temp gauges just because of rust and poor connections. You may want to check your engine strap from the battery.

I suggest you get a multimeter and check the resistance at the sending unit and at the gauge. I would guess cold you will see around 100-130 ohms, if you are at around 300 ohms or more, you have a resistance in there somewhere.

Slightly Warm- (130 Deg.) 73 ohms
Beginning of Band- (171 Deg) 36 ohms
End of Band- (242 Deg) 13 ohms

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post #3 of 12 Old 04-16-2019, 04:00 AM
John Strenk
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If you have one of those new stepper motor gauges then the wiring on the temp gauge is the exact opposite of what the original gauge is wired.



NOT like this:


They may look the same but work differently.

If you hook it up backwards then the gauge works backwards.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/n...today-4313679/


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post #4 of 12 Old 04-16-2019, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
Mgoodrich26
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Thanks to both of you. John, that is very helpful as I wired it back the original way. Iíll move the jumper strap today and see how that works and let you know. Thanks again!
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post #5 of 12 Old 04-16-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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So I made the change and I think this has fixed the problem. Or at least it didnít pin the Temp Guage to the far left like it was doing before. Went to start the Jeep to try it out and realized battery was low from me leaving key turned on. Hooked up a battery charger for 4-5 hrs. I went to reattach the positive terminal to the battery and I got a huge spark and the Jeep tried starting up. Holy S*%#! I disconnect some of the wires I hooked up thinking that was the problem but that wasnít it. I took the key completely out and that didntí help. I unhooked the starter from the solenoid and that worked. Been reading up and some say its the starter relay or solenoid sticking. The solenoid is only a couple week old so thinking it hasnít gone bad already. Not sure where the Relay is. I know where the ignition switch is on the column unless thatís the same thing as the relay? Starting to get pretty frustrated. Any ideas?
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-16-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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It was the solenoid. I gave it a few taps with a rubber mallet and it fixed the problem. Not sure if that is normal or maybe I need to bring it back to NAPA. Good news is the Temp Guage works. I let it run for a while and drove it about 5 miles. Guage increased to the high side of the green zone but did not leave the green.
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-17-2019, 03:49 AM
John Strenk
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That's good to hear. !

as far as the starter solenoid goes. You really need two wrenches to tighten the nuts when attaching the cables. One to keep the stud from turning and one to tighten the nut.
If the stud turns , then you can make the contact inside to cock a little and it will jam and get stuck. When you get a new one, use two wrenches.

Also there is no other relay to activate the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is often referred to as a starter relay.


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post #8 of 12 Old 04-23-2019, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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As a follow up to getting my Temp Guage working correctly I apologize in advance for these beginner questions. My guage has been running at the far end of green and engine seems hot to me under the hood but maybe thatís normal. Iíve spent a lot of time reading past forums as to not repeat old conversations but I still have a few clarifying questions. I tested my new sending unit at cold 61 ohms, middle of green 28 ohms and towards end of green 23 ohms. Thatís the hottest it gets which from my understanding is pretty good. Maybe 195 degrees or so? One of my questions is around my multimeter. I attached a pic. Iím measuring ohms at the ď2000kĒ setting but when I move to other settings I get different readings. Am I testing this correctly? Couple other things I notice is I canít get a reading unless engine and ignition is off. Otherwise I just get the number 1. Also, when engine shuts off at hottest reading I swear I can hear water boiling in the engine. Does that sound right? Iím going to flush radiator and install new thermostat just because itís a new Jeep to me and maybe that will bring temp down even more. Also thinking a fan shroud. Again sorry for the rookie questions.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-23-2019, 06:33 PM
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for the resistances you're measuring you should use the 200 ohm setting. Variable readings can be a sign that the battery in your meter needs changing.
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-24-2019, 05:37 AM
John Strenk
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You do have the gauge wire unplugged when you take the ohms reading correct?


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post #11 of 12 Old 04-24-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
Mgoodrich26
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Thanks for the info on the meter. I will check batteries and use a different setting.

John, no I did not disconnect the guage wire to sending unit when testing. But I will as I take it I should be!

Thanks to both of you.
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post #12 of 12 Old 04-25-2019, 05:34 AM
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Yes, you should take resistance readings with the gauge disconnected.

There is a way to do it with a volt meter and it will be very accurate but it would take some math.


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