1974 CJ5 Which Internal Regulated Alternator to upgrade to and how - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 47 Old 09-30-2015, 05:03 PM
Cutlass327
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I did go thru TDK. Although I did learn later I goofed. I went directly thru them, called and talked to Jeremy directly (the owner). I did this so I could talk to him about the add-on, shackle reversal and galvanized dip. Where I goofed was in shipping. 4wdh and the like will at times have FREE SHIPPING... I paid for mine to be shipped.... coulda saved some money! I dunno if you can get the add-ons thru QT or 4WDH...


Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #32 of 47 Old 09-30-2015, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
I did go thru TDK. Although I did learn later I goofed. I went directly thru them, called and talked to Jeremy directly (the owner). I did this so I could talk to him about the add-on, shackle reversal and galvanized dip. Where I goofed was in shipping. 4wdh and the like will at times have FREE SHIPPING... I paid for mine to be shipped.... coulda saved some money! I dunno if you can get the add-ons thru QT or 4WDH...
Oh yeah, that is a very good point the shipping alone can be around $800 or so. I remember around Christmas time last year I had checked on a replacement tub and they were running a free shipping special. I ended up not doing it at the time but remember thinking that it would be worth it to wait until they ran a special like that again if I got serious about doing it. The link I had found at Quadratec did have the galvanizing and shackle reversal but the shipping is not currently free. I think I would do like you said and wait for the shipping to be free if I ever did it.

Thanks
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post #33 of 47 Old 10-01-2015, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I finished the alternator mounting tonight after work and got the belt tight, it took me a bit to get it all to where the pully was not rubbing on anything. I picked up a new belt, about an inch bigger in diameter than the original one to compensate for the new alternator and bracket changes. I hope sometime before Monday to finish wiring it and fire it up. I will have a few things to watch when she cranks up this next time, exhaust and intake manifold for leaks, carb for leaks and tuning, alternator pully for rubbing, and ammeter for some kind of reading, oh and the new exhaust I put on for leaks. Fingers crossed.

Thanks
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post #34 of 47 Old 10-02-2015, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok here is my wiring diagram on what I have set. The new pieces that are new are the Alternator and Ammeter. The change that has been made is the new alternator and the old alternator only had wired the batt terminal to the batt side of the solenoid but then the black-becomes-white-fused wire was originally going from the batt terminal of the old alternator (which I know now was incorrect) and there was a yellow wire going fro the I terminal of the solenoid over to the connector for the old external voltage regulator (the new alternator has an internal regulator). Does this look correct before I actually wire this up like this? Also what amp fuses should I put in the white and the red wires coming from pin 1 and pin 2 of the alternator? Should these be a bit more than what the alternator is supposed to be able to put out which is 62 amps max, so would I need 70 amp fuses on both pin 1 and pin 2? I had read somewhere that since I was taking this to an ammeter instead of a light that I could put a fuse inline and it would act as the resistor?

Any help is greatly appreciated as I am hoping to do this in the morning (Saturday).

Thanks
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post #35 of 47 Old 10-03-2015, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mudsomemore74 View Post
Ok here is my wiring diagram on what I have set. The new pieces that are new are the Alternator and Ammeter. The change that has been made is the new alternator and the old alternator only had wired the batt terminal to the batt side of the solenoid but then the black-becomes-white-fused wire was originally going from the batt terminal of the old alternator (which I know now was incorrect) and there was a yellow wire going fro the I terminal of the solenoid over to the connector for the old external voltage regulator (the new alternator has an internal regulator). Does this look correct before I actually wire this up like this? Also what amp fuses should I put in the white and the red wires coming from pin 1 and pin 2 of the alternator? Should these be a bit more than what the alternator is supposed to be able to put out which is 62 amps max, so would I need 70 amp fuses on both pin 1 and pin 2? I had read somewhere that since I was taking this to an ammeter instead of a light that I could put a fuse inline and it would act as the resistor?

Any help is greatly appreciated as I am hoping to do this in the morning (Saturday).

Thanks

After looking at another site I think I may go with this diagram instead. Thoughts, suggestions? This is the other link I found:
http://www.gofastforless.com/electrical/alternator.htm

Thanks
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post #36 of 47 Old 10-03-2015, 09:31 AM
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post #37 of 47 Old 10-03-2015, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I went with my second diagram. Everything started up, no melted wires or anything but the amp gauge is only reading about 15amps at a rough idle (still fiddling with the carb after the rebuild as well). The bad thing is that after I turn the key off that the engine continues to run like it is still getting fire. Also, with it running if I turn on the headlights it jumps up to like 17amps instead of going the other way which is what I expected it to do.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
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post #38 of 47 Old 10-03-2015, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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I think I have it figured out now. All I had to change was pin 1 from the alternator needed to go to the batt terminal of my ignition switch instead of the ign terminal. It seems to be working fine now.

Thanks
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post #39 of 47 Old 10-03-2015, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Got it all straightened out, got the timing adjusted, got the carb adjusted. Now just have low idle oil pressure about 15 or so if you rev it up about 25. Guess I will order an oil pump just to be safe. Might take the wife for a spin tomorrow. Only strange thing still is that the ammeter amps get larger when you turn on the headlights, would have expected the reverse of that. When you rev the engine the amps get larger which I did expect to see that. I have 30 amp fuses in it and I have not seen it jump up past that as yet but I expect it will and so I supposed I need to get some larger fuses. I am thinking maybe 70amp fuses, since the alternator will supposedly put out up to 62, but I doubt it will actually hit 62 so 60 maybe good?

Thanks
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post #40 of 47 Old 10-04-2015, 05:19 AM
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That would be right, as the more load you put on the system, the more amps the alternator puts out. The ammeter is basically showing how much load you are putting on the system.

If you had a voltmeter, it would drop some as you added load and drew the battery down. Mine starts out with no load at 14v, but turn on my blower, headlights and wipers and you can see the volt meter drop. I believe the main reason for that is because the voltmeter gets its reference from the dash harness from the fuse box. I'd love to put one on a relay to the battery too, so that I can see exactly what I have. I cleaned the connections from the battery source wire to the fuse panel, and the ignition switch to the panel, but you get a voltage drop across the switch and such.

Maybe I could make a video of the gauge while putting loads on. Then have one with my DVOM showing batt volts at the same time...

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #41 of 47 Old 10-04-2015, 05:44 AM
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Your oil pressure sounds about normal.

Matt
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post #42 of 47 Old 10-04-2015, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
mudsomemore74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
That would be right, as the more load you put on the system, the more amps the alternator puts out. The ammeter is basically showing how much load you are putting on the system.

If you had a voltmeter, it would drop some as you added load and drew the battery down. Mine starts out with no load at 14v, but turn on my blower, headlights and wipers and you can see the volt meter drop. I believe the main reason for that is because the voltmeter gets its reference from the dash harness from the fuse box. I'd love to put one on a relay to the battery too, so that I can see exactly what I have. I cleaned the connections from the battery source wire to the fuse panel, and the ignition switch to the panel, but you get a voltage drop across the switch and such.

Maybe I could make a video of the gauge while putting loads on. Then have one with my DVOM showing batt volts at the same time...

Thanks for the clarification/explanation Rick. I feel a little better about it now.

I don't have all that much hooked up to mine that would draw much anyway. The heater currently is not even connected and and there is no air conditioner. The only thing I really added was a pretty simple modern radio/mp3 player and some waterproof speakers on the roll bar, no amp or anything like that. There are no power windows or doors, for there matter there are no doors, roof, or windows at all (well except the front windshield glass).

Thanks
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post #43 of 47 Old 10-04-2015, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Your oil pressure sounds about normal.

Matt
Thanks for the info Matt. I was just looking at new oil pumps and screens so I will save that for when I rebuild the engine (hopefully will be a little while longer).

Thanks
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post #44 of 47 Old 10-12-2015, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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I had ordered some 70 amp fuses (called them maxi fuses though they are ato/atc style fuses). I didn't realize how big these were and though they would go into the inline fuse holders I had bought for other things. Question is do I need these fuses or will the 30amp fuses suffice? So far they have not blown, but on my test runs I don't think I have gone faster than about 20 mph so far. At some point I did blow the 20amp fuse going to my backup led lights but that may have been due to a short.
I see the maxi fuse holders here if I need to get them:

http://www.delcity.net/store/Maxi™...Holder/p_11183


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post #45 of 47 Old 10-12-2015, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudsomemore74 View Post
I had ordered some 70 amp fuses (called them maxi fuses though they are ato/atc style fuses). I didn't realize how big these were and though they would go into the inline fuse holders I had bought for other things. Question is do I need these fuses or will the 30amp fuses suffice? So far they have not blown, but on my test runs I don't think I have gone faster than about 20 mph so far. At some point I did blow the 20amp fuse going to my backup led lights but that may have been due to a short.
I see the maxi fuse holders here if I need to get them:

http://www.delcity.net/store/Maxi„...Holder/p_11183


Thanks
Electrically it's not your speed that will blow the fuses but the wire size/amps... When I converted my heap to a CS130 I used 20 amp fuse wire.. You want the fuse/fuse wire to blow before any wiring damage occurs. 70 amps won't blow til your wiring is burnt up.. And maybe not then.

here's some helpful links

http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761

http://heightslibrary.org/materials/...RE_RATINGS.pdf

Pull my finger
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