1974 CJ5 AMC 304 - cold start stalling - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 12:34 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabbyATL View Post

OK, I'll take a look at this Thursday. We've got those crazy tornado storms rolling through today and tonight and part of tomorrow.

But I'll use a brick to hold the throttle to the floor. If it doesn't close more then I'll open up that cap.

Thanks, again, for all your help!
As mentioned, you can hold the throttle open with your hand and the choke should hand close under spring load. The spring adjustment is just turning the cap.


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post #32 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
sabbyATL
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Umm...there's no need for a brick, you can work the throttle at the carb by hand.

Secondly, you don't take the choke's thermal spring cap all the way off to adjust it. You simple loosen the screws, turn the cap, then tighten the screws back up. You'll be able to feel which direction makes the spring tighter.

Good luck,

Matt
How do you work the throttle at the carb? she asks before Googling to see for herself.
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post #33 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sabbyATL View Post
How do you work the throttle at the carb? she asks before Googling to see for herself.
Grab the throttle assembly where the throttle cable connects and turn it in the same direction the cable does.

This video demonstrates.

Matt

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post #34 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Grab the throttle assembly where the throttle cable connects and turn it in the same direction the cable does.

This video demonstrates.

Matt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDH9cjsybEk

Oh, wait, so you do all this while the engine is on?

I was doing all of the stuff I was doing so far without turning the engine on...just turning the key to on without cranking.
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post #35 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so without turning the engine on I held the throttle back but the choke didn't close all the way/plate didn't flatten.

I didn't bother trying to crank it because it wouldn't stay cranked without someone in it revving it. And I think, based on what I could see of the mechanics, that's not necessary.

(I keep thinking we're going to have bad weather but it's only coming overnight...forecast says rain all day but it's been wrong...)

I'm going to try turning that cap now.
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post #36 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, turned the cap. Or I think I did.

Basically, no amount of turning made the plate flatter. To the right opened it more. To the left put it back where it was before.

The photos below show (1) cap when turned right, (2) choke plate when cap turned right, (3) cap turned left, (4) choke plate when cap turned left.
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20140429_181256_zpshayr5v9n.jpg   20140429_181303_zps3po4eoci.jpg   20140429_181231_zpsmak5n5wh.jpg   20140429_181241_zpsjd79aecu.jpg  
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post #37 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:27 PM
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it's called the dechoke setting

Hi all, I'm a retired driveability tech. You all are correct in stating that you can turn the choke cap (black thing) to tighten or loosen choke bimetal spring. Where you are wrong is in stating that you need to hold the throttle wide open, to close the choke plate. Doing so will open the choke up a little to help clear out a flooded engine. if you go less than half open on the throttle , you should be able to fully close the choke.
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post #38 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Is it maybe the hook thing connected to the plate is too short?
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post #39 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:36 PM
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I don't think it's too short. Did you try what I suggested ?
Good luck !
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post #40 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think it's too short. Did you try what I suggested ?
Good luck !
Well, I did try that but that doesn't let the choke plate fully close/flatten out.

But, I did go ahead and turn the cap all the way to the left, which doesn't seem to let it close all the way but...well, left is the direction that would close it if it would close. So I turned it left. Tightened the screws back.

I started her up and she initially had a good idle but then idled down to shutting off.

I hadn't pumped the gas right before because I'd been messing with it a lot previously and figured it had enough.

However, assuming I was wrong I got back in, pumped the gas, started her up. And she stayed started.

I'm uploading a video to post.

So...while the choke plate doesn't look very closed maybe it's closed enough?
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post #41 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sabbyATL View Post
Well, I did try that but that doesn't let the choke plate fully close/flatten out.

But, I did go ahead and turn the cap all the way to the left, which doesn't seem to let it close all the way but...well, left is the direction that would close it if it would close. So I turned it left. Tightened the screws back.

I started her up and she initially had a good idle but then idled down to shutting off.

I hadn't pumped the gas right before because I'd been messing with it a lot previously and figured it had enough.

However, assuming I was wrong I got back in, pumped the gas, started her up. And she stayed started.

I'm uploading a video to post.

So...while the choke plate doesn't look very closed maybe it's closed enough?
Stupid question, but you're not checking the choke position with the engine running are you ?
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post #42 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Stupid question, but you're not checking the choke position with the engine running are you ?

Hmm...I didn't crank the engine until I'd rescrewed the cap back down. I did then start the engine without the air filter so I could see the choke plate. That's what I videod.

Why?
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post #43 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 06:13 PM
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Hi sabbyATL, because if you had adjusted it while running, the choke pulloff would hold the choke open about the amount that your picture shows ! but you didn't, so , now I'm wondering if the pulloff is stuck. It is located inside the housing behind the choke cap that you've been turning. After the choke is sorted if you still have cold start issues, I would check for vacuum leaks.
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post #44 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WILSONCJ5 View Post
Hi sabbyATL, because if you had adjusted it while running, the choke pulloff would hold the choke open about the amount that your picture shows ! but you didn't, so , now I'm wondering if the pulloff is stuck. It is located inside the housing behind the choke cap that you've been turning. After the choke is sorted if you still have cold start issues, I would check for vacuum leaks.

You can call me Jen. I should've just put that as my username.

Is the choke pulloff where that hook connects to the spring under the cap?

Ugh...I don't want to deal with vacuum leaks...
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post #45 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 06:26 PM
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With the thermal spring adjusted fully to the left, the choke will simply take longer to open. Sometimes that's preferable in colder weather, but the usual setting is somewhere around the middle of the range of adjustment.

We need to figure out why your choke isn't closely fully. Again, what's suppose to happen is the choke should close fully with a 1/2 pump on the throttle (assuming the engine is cold). Then, without touching the throttle, you should start the engine. When the engine fires, the choke pull-off should open the choke plates about 3/16" and the fast idle cam should be on the tallest step, causing your idle to be around 1500-1700 RPM. From there the choke should gradually open as the thermal spring heats up. Usually, in about 3-5 minutes, the choke plates should be fully open. At which point, another blip on the throttle will cause the idle to settle down to normal around 700 RPM.

Does the linkage in your last pic show any signs of being bent, or otherwise tampered with? Can you disconnect that linkage at the top, and does the choke plate close then?

Matt
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