1974 CJ5 AMC 304 - cold start stalling - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 89 Old 04-27-2014, 11:53 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Originally Posted by sabbyATL View Post
Did it just now after getting home with it. Flaps stay open with a half press.
The engine needs to be cool, or cold, to test the operation of the choke. The choke is not designed to "set" when the engine is warm.

Here's a video that demonstrates how the choke should operate on a cold engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeU5dH1snA8

Natt

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post #17 of 89 Old 04-27-2014, 12:05 PM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by sabbyATL View Post

Did it just now after getting home with it. Flaps stay open with a half press.
Let it cool for a bit and try it. The first pump to the floor should set the flap closed. If not, you need to see if something is seized. Has to be a seized part because the choke plate should default closed. Unless it is flopping around loose.

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post #18 of 89 Old 04-27-2014, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the follow up from everyone.

Jeep is parked for the day. We're getting some rain for several days so I might not get to try the next step until Thursday, maybe Wednesday.

I'll update when I can give it a shot. I can upload a photo of the carb with the air filter off, if you like.
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post #19 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
The engine needs to be cool, or cold, to test the operation of the choke. The choke is not designed to "set" when the engine is warm.

Here's a video that demonstrates how the choke should operate on a cold engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeU5dH1snA8

Natt
Thanks for this video.

I have to say...my jeep is not idling that fast. By any means even close.
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post #20 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Let it cool for a bit and try it. The first pump to the floor should set the flap closed. If not, you need to see if something is seized. Has to be a seized part because the choke plate should default closed. Unless it is flopping around loose.


OK, so, we actually had a dry day today. Bad weather coming in tonight.

This morning I went out and took some photos.

Here's what the carb looked like before I did anything:



And here's after I pumped the pedal and then did the half pump (was I supposed to do the half pump?) and I turned the key to ON without cranking:



The angles aren't the same but in the second photo the flaps are less open....but I wouldn't say they're closed.
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post #21 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by babytank31 View Post
When you say auxiliary fuel pump do you mean an electric fuel pump? If so, before you try to start the motor turn the key to the ignition position and give it a few seconds. You may have something causing your fuel bowls to lower the fuel level in them. You may or may not have site windows on your carb to check the fuel bowl level. You have to remember that a jeep is not like our modern automobiles. Each has its own personality per say, making them each unique it it's own way. Like the other guys said, check your choke, floats and fast idle settings to make sure you are set up correctly. You may have to let it run on high idle for a few minutes before you take off. Jeep will tell you how it wants to run and be driven. You just have to set back and take in what it is saying to you. Best of luck with it.
Yes, it's electric. But it's not the main one. It has a switch on the dash. The PO put it in for off-roading. I've never used it.

But you're right...it could be that MY Jeep needs a bit more time to warm up than I'd expect from reading.

Now, it doesn't idle high but I can dry rev it a bit to get the idle to stabilize and stop idling itself off.
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post #22 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 04:37 PM
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Sabby,

The choke plates should close fully, with light spring pressure, when you set the choke. When the engine fires, the choke pull-off should open the plates to about 1/8-1/4". As the engine warms up the choke plates should gradually open until they are straight up and down (fully open).

Your choke's thermal spring appears to be set too light, and isn't closing the plates fully. Tighten the spring until the choke plates close with slight spring pressure, and I bet your cold idle issues will improve.

Matt
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post #23 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Sabby,

The choke plates should close fully, with light spring pressure, when you set the choke. When the engine fires, the choke pull-off should open the plates to about 1/8-1/4". As the engine warms up the choke plates should gradually open until they are straight up and down (fully open).

Your choke's thermal spring appears to be set too light, and isn't closing the plates fully. Tighten the spring until the choke plates close with slight spring pressure, and I bet your cold idle issues will improve.

Matt
OK, thanks, I'll go do that and report back.
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post #24 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Sabby,

The choke plates should close fully, with light spring pressure, when you set the choke. When the engine fires, the choke pull-off should open the plates to about 1/8-1/4". As the engine warms up the choke plates should gradually open until they are straight up and down (fully open).

Your choke's thermal spring appears to be set too light, and isn't closing the plates fully. Tighten the spring until the choke plates close with slight spring pressure, and I bet your cold idle issues will improve.

Matt
OK, so I thought this would be easy...that I would get out there and see I had to just turn a screw or something and the tension would change on the spring.

But, I don't know what I am doing. I can't see where to adjust it. Also, it looks like the starter (if that's the right name) is blocking the travel of the spring.


Here's what I'm seeing:






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post #25 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
The engine needs to be cool, or cold, to test the operation of the choke. The choke is not designed to "set" when the engine is warm.

Here's a video that demonstrates how the choke should operate on a cold engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeU5dH1snA8

Natt

BTW, I understand now why the engine has to be cool...bc the spring on the choke loosens and tightens with the temp. That's really cool and simple.
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post #26 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sabbyATL View Post

OK, so I thought this would be easy...that I would get out there and see I had to just turn a screw or something and the tension would change on the spring.

But, I don't know what I am doing. I can't see where to adjust it. Also, it looks like the starter (if that's the right name) is blocking the travel of the spring.

Here's what I'm seeing:
Ok, first you need to see if the choke plate will close by hand. If it will, it is not seized linkage. Then you need to loosen the three screws on that black round plastic cap with the one wire going to it. You then turn that until the choke plate closes with the throttle all the way open and tighten it down again. There should actually be a notch and lines on the edge. It should be 2 lines toward closed from center after the plate touches.

Mike
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post #27 of 89 Old 04-28-2014, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, first you need to see if the choke plate will close by hand. If it will, it is not seized linkage. Then you need to loosen the three screws on that black round plastic cap with the one wire going to it. You then turn that until the choke plate closes with the throttle all the way open and tighten it down again. There should actually be a notch and lines on the edge. It should be 2 lines toward closed from center after the plate touches.

So, after reading some other guy talking about his choke plate I tried to close mine by hand and it won't budge. It will open more but it won't close more. Meaning, when I press the pedal to the floor and the plate moves to that not-closed position in the photos...from there I can easily re-open the plate by hand but I cannot close it all the way.
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post #28 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by sabbyATL View Post

So, after reading some other guy talking about his choke plate I tried to close mine by hand and it won't budge. It will open more but it won't close more. Meaning, when I press the pedal to the floor and the plate moves to that not-closed position in the photos...from there I can easily re-open the plate by hand but I cannot close it all the way.
You need to maybe hold the throttle open when you are at the carb to let it close more, the fast idle cam hits the screw on the throttle linkage stopping the choke from closing more unless the throttle is open. Or..

That black plastic cap has a bimetal spring under it that moves the choke linkage as the power causes it to heat up. You may need to open it up so you can see what is binding up the choke, or just try turning it (clockwise) once loose to see if it moves the choke plate closed with the throttle held open. Someone may have just backed it off too much. It controls how rich it runs at idle, that is why it has the marks and arrow on its edge.

Mike
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #29 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
You need to maybe hold the throttle open when you are at the carb to let it close more, the fast idle cam hits the screw on the throttle linkage stopping the choke from closing more unless the throttle is open. Or..

That black plastic cap has a bimetal spring under it that moves the choke linkage as the power causes it to heat up. You may need to open it up so you can see what is binding up the choke, or just try turning it (clockwise) once loose to see if it moves the choke plate closed with the throttle held open. Someone may have just backed it off too much. It controls how rich it runs at idle, that is why it has the marks and arrow on its edge.

OK, I'll take a look at this Thursday. We've got those crazy tornado storms rolling through today and tonight and part of tomorrow.

But I'll use a brick to hold the throttle to the floor. If it doesn't close more then I'll open up that cap.

Thanks, again, for all your help!
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post #30 of 89 Old 04-29-2014, 10:19 AM
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But I'll use a brick to hold the throttle to the floor. If it doesn't close more then I'll open up that cap.

Thanks, again, for all your help!
Umm...there's no need for a brick, you can work the throttle at the carb by hand.

Secondly, you don't take the choke's thermal spring cap all the way off to adjust it. You simple loosen the screws, turn the cap, then tighten the screws back up. You'll be able to feel which direction makes the spring tighter.

Good luck,

Matt
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