1950-52 Willys P/U truck build - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 303 Old 03-18-2009, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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1950-52 Willys P/U truck build

For my next project I will take two Willys projects and combine them into one complete machine. Here is what I'm starting with. A 1950 P/U:




And it has a V8 307 SBC. that runs.


I recently made a 3000 mi. road trip and picked up this 1952.


I got lots of extra parts in the deal.



Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT

Last edited by BioTex; 11-27-2009 at 10:35 AM.
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post #2 of 303 Old 03-18-2009, 08:16 PM
Lifesgoodhere
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Can I have some fenders? lol - na, just joking. I wish you good luck. If you need any help, just let me know.

A Jeeper for life
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post #3 of 303 Old 03-18-2009, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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What I want to accomplish...

I will use the frame off the 1952 since it is bone stock and in very good shape. I will sand blast it and prime/paint it. I'm toying with the idea of painting the frame yellow. This is going to be a just for fun build, so anything goes. So far I have $700 invested in both trucks.

I borrowed a MIG welder, so will be learning that also.

The axles on the green 1950 were upgraded when the V8 was installed. I was told they came out of a gladiator, so that is what I'm using. The front is a D25, and not sure what the rear is yet. The tranny is a three speed, and shifts very nice, so will use it for now. All the 4WD works great. I'm going to convert the front to disc brakes.

I'm using the cab from the white 1952, and have my choice of bench seat or buckets. I like the buckets. The bed is a toss up. Not sure which one is better yet. As for the engine, I'm planning on getting rid of the 307 and using my 1985 258 that is on a stand ready to go with weber carb and HEI. The 307 is worn out, and too big for the engine compartment IMO.

For guages I'm going to add modern parts very similar to a CJ's. The rest, I'll make up as I go. Anywhere along the way someone has ideas, I'm most definately open to. I'm new to this, so will need lots of help. I will have lots of parts left over that will be free for the taking also. Extra frame, bed, door, hoods, grills, etc...
My time frame is 6 months to 5 years

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #4 of 303 Old 03-18-2009, 08:25 PM
SuB8HaVeN
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I heard the story on that parts truck, sounds like a deal man. I'm looking forward to seeing what comes of all those parts. For the record, I like the sunroof idea the PO had.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #5 of 303 Old 03-18-2009, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lifesgoodhere View Post
Can I have some fenders?
Actually you can. I will have extras I think.

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #6 of 303 Old 03-18-2009, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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For the record, I like the sunroof idea the PO had.
The PO alsmost died installing that "sunroof" He rolled the Jeep 4 times, and flew out. He practically gave it to me.

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #7 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 04:39 AM Thread Starter
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How should I fix these holes?
I have a mig welder and the other cab to cut up if needed. Would you patch each individual hole, or weld a plate over (behind) the whole area, or even cut out the area and weld in the replacement? Ideas?
Attached Thumbnails
Firewall.jpg  

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #8 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Timken Axles

What do we know about the strength of the Timken Axle? I am researching it, and looks to have a 10" ring gear with 5.38 ratio. This would be a nice ratio to have if the thing is strong. Anyone know how it would hold up?

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #9 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 08:15 AM
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SCORE!!!

I have a real liking for looking at jeeps and parts all within arms reach. Makes me feel comfortable. Kinda homey.

Got a tip on the holes aside from welding, that is.
POR15. Follow all directions on product info.
Working inside the cab. As the first coat still has 'finger drag', dip precut fiberglass mat patches that will provide at least 1/2" overlap on the metal edges, into the POR15 and apply over the holes. While the patch still has the 'finger drag' apply another coat of the paint. You won't believe the strength. Bit of filler on the fire wall side. Your covered, literally.
But the extra holes are too.
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post #10 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
How should I fix these holes?
I have a mig welder and the other cab to cut up if needed. Would you patch each individual hole, or weld a plate over (behind) the whole area, or even cut out the area and weld in the replacement? Ideas?
I would fill them. Go get yourself a welding spoon or a block of copper for a backer and hop to it. Likely no more than 20 minutes of work.
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post #11 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
What do we know about the strength of the Timken Axle? I am researching it, and looks to have a 10" ring gear with 5.38 ratio. This would be a nice ratio to have if the thing is strong. Anyone know how it would hold up?
The Timkin axle is a one ton axle. howver, it is only 10 spline, so have spare axleshafts at the ready. On later modes, they used DANA 51 axles, which are almost as strong as the 60 (as I have read) and the Timkin is a stronger axle than the 51. One only problem is that the DANA 51 axle parts are hard to find, same can be said for the Timkin, but I know where to find lots of parts for them. The Timkin axles were designed for a max of 250 ft-lbs of toqure, way overdesigned for the time.

if I were you I would look for a axle out of a 80s model one ton Chevy or Dodge truck, I think the D series Dodge truck has the closest width to the Timkin.

Up grade the front axle to a DANA 44. Again one out of a Chevy or Dodge truck pre 90s should work good. You may have to move the spring perches though.

Also, if you go swapping axles, get something you can put a 4.10 to 4.88 in, the 5.38s limit your speed a lot.

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post #12 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 10:16 AM
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Use high strengh fiberglass, its easier to work with, and a hell of a lot more forgiving if you screw up..

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post #13 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 02:40 PM
SuB8HaVeN
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You may want to try the POR-15 Powermesh on the firewall. That's what I plan on doing. My firewall doesn't have quite as many holes, but I've got quite a few.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #14 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN View Post
You may want to try the POR-15 Powermesh on the firewall. That's what I plan on doing. My firewall doesn't have quite as many holes, but I've got quite a few.
I know how to work fiberglass, so is the powermesh better? I was thinking of welding them, but if there is an easier way, then I'm all for it.
PS. It's up to you to give Mike the bug tonight. I'm counting on you.

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #15 of 303 Old 03-19-2009, 02:58 PM
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it'd be pretty easy to cut out that whole section with all the little holes and weld in a solid piece.

nice find man, love those trucks. looks like an fc-150 or something in the background there...

05 Wrangler X. 3" Zone lift. 33" Duratracs on 15x8 Tactic Steel Wheels
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