Any AR experts here?
I've been into shooting/hunting my whole life and have been wanting an AR for a good while now. I finally broke down and went with a 6.5 Grendel build (wanting something a little better for deer hunting than a .223). I like building stuff, so I assembled the rifle myself. Started with a stripped Anderson lower and added a rifle kit from 22mods4all.com. It included an Anderson lower parts kit, 20" Bear Creek Arsenal barrel (rifle length gas), BCG, A2 flash hider, 15" keymod handguard, gas block,etc. I added a 4-16x Primary Arms scope and 1 piece mount.
I realize this is a budget build, but it shoots horrible. ~5" group @ 100 yds (from a bench with bipod and rear bag) with Hornady Black 123gr ELD-M. Also, every ejected round is hitting the deflector and flatten the case mouth. My cousin and I both build one and they both shoot the same about the same and have the same ejection issue.
Will probably be a few days before I can get to it, but my first thought is pull the handguard and check the barrel nut, possibly try bedding it with lock tite (read mixed reviews, so I didn't do it the first time. I would also like to try different ammo, but it's tough to find right now.
I'm also curious about the ejection issue. From what I've read, I think the best solution will be an adjustable gas block. Any opinion/advice on this? Could it be affecting accuracy also?
Check to make sure everything TIGHT. No crazy gorilla tightness, but within reasonable torque specs. You might want to use some blue thread locker on the scope mount screws. Semiautos have a tendency sometimes to work screws loose quicker than bolt guns due to reciprocating mass.
Next I would shoot prone to get the most stability possible. I don't like shooting for precision from a bench unless the rifle is mounted in a fixed rest of some sort.
How's your trigger follow up? Position your trigger finger on that first joint and and steadily squeeze back straight and hold in position till the shot is done then release just enough to feel that reset. Don't slap or hammer the trigger.
You might try loading your bipod too while in the prone position. I've had mixed results with this with AR's though.
The flattened case mouth thing is normal. I doubt this is cause of your accuracy problems. Semiautos beat up cases. An adjustable gas block might help, but I doubt it'll eliminate it completely.
What trigger do you have? Stock AR triggers can be horrible to just ok. Though I think this isn't the cause of 5 inch groups it does help tremendously when trying to reduce that 1.5 inch group down to less than one inch. A Geiselle SSA-E or LaRue MBT is my go to or if more budget minded, a Rock River National Match.
I have a 6.5 grendel that I built also...18 inch Lilja barrel, Midwest industries free float hand guard, Aero precision mount, USO LR-17, Geiselle SSA-E, Magpul PRS stock. I get about .75-.625 groups with my own hand loads 123 AMAX or Nosler 123 OTMs. With Hornady 123 Amax or SST factory loads I get around 1 inch.
Hope this helps.
EDIT: I forgot to ask, Is your hand guard free floated? You actually might not want to load your bipod if it isn't.
Thanks for the tips! The main problem actually ended up being the barrel. Contacted Bear Creek and they said to sent the barrel back, they'd check it out. Said it was defective and sent me a new one. They didn't elaborate on the defect and I didn't think to ask.
Last time out with the new barrel it was shooting ~1.5" @ 100yds. Not great, but not expecting perfect from a budget build. Handgaurd is free floated and it does shoot better if I load the bipod. And the trigger sucks. It's the standard trigger that came with the lower parts kit. I'm looking to replace it, but not very high on my list right now. And I still need to get some dies so I can load it. The factory Hornady Black 123ELDM and the 123 SSTs shoot the same so far.
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That's good to hear! Another inexpensive thing you could try is an Accuwedge. It helps get rid of excess slop between your upper and lower receiver, some guys even use a foam ear plug.
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